bare wire to teh ground bus, white wire to the neutral bus(IF this is a true main panel these may be same, if this is a sub panel they WILL be different), then the black wire to teh terminal on the breaker. you must use minimum 14 guage wire though you can use 12. did you run both new outlets back to the panel, or does only 1 run back and the 2nd come off teh first outlet? if both run back you cannot connect both hots to the breaker unless it supports 2 wires. you would need to wirenut them together and pigtail to the breaker.

Well, I made it back to the house to take some pictures today, and even managed to trip a breaker to see if the "LED" lit up. Click on a pic to make it larger. I'm sorry, that REALLY looks like an LED, and it lights up when the breaker trips. Trip & Light U.S. Patent Number 4,652,867 Made in Venezuela Classified for use in panelboards where the available short circuit current is 10 KA, 120/240 V AC or less. Do not use in equipment connected to circuits having an available system short circuit current in excess of 10KA, 120/240 V AC. For catalog numbers of compatible panelboards refer to publication No. 111089 provided with the circuit breaker. If additional information is is necessary, contact the factory. LBSD 10,000 AMPS INTERRUPT RATING 60/75° WIRE 40° AWG. : 14-12 IN. LBS: 25 15A E-97777 UND. LABS INC.*` CLASSIFIED CIRCUIT BRKR 1 POLE UNIT ISSUE NO. MG-8339 TRIP & LIGHT* 120/240 VAC CU/AL LB115SD SWD PRINTED IN U.S.A. There's your markings... Googling "Trip & Light" came up with nothing relevant except an ebay listing. The patent number of course turns up, in different words, a circuit breaker with an LED. There's still a price tag on it: $6.99, from "Servistar" (which I believe was a hardware chain at one point) So it IS an LED, and this IS a normal QO panel. I still don't know anything else about these breakers :P

It's quite easy, but as the other posts warned, there is a danger. Breakers do have a rated life and do go bad. If you feel that you can do this, the first step is to obtain a replacement circuit breaker. Lowe's or Menard's carry most brands. You will need to remove the bad breaker and take it with you to ensure you get an exact replacement. Here's how to do it. First turn off your main breaker. (Have a flashlight handy as all of the power in the house will be cut.) Remove the the panelbox cover (usually 4-screws using a flat-bladed screwdriver). Then remove the broken circuit breaker. Breakers are stab-locked to the bus bar. To remove it, use a flat screwdriver and pry the breaker from the side nearest the middle, (where this breaker buts up to an adjacent breaker across from it). It will pry up as if it's hinged at its base (where the wire connects.) Once out, disconnect the wire using a flat-bladed screwdriver. It will be black-colored wire. Fold the wire back out of the box (it's dead, no harm of sparking or getting a shock). At this point I would replace the cover using only one or two screws, taking care not to pinch the loose wire. The idea is to provide some protection while your at the store. Turn the main back on and tell your wife to keep everyone away while your gone. Once you back home with the new breaker (which should be less than $10), you just reverse the process. Turn off main breaker, remove the cover, attach the wire in the same manner it was attached to the old breaker. Make certain it's tightened down properly. Nice and really tight. You install the breaker by setting the back of the breaker (where the wire is attached) to its connection point and then rotate the other end down onto the bus. Look a the surrounding breakers and you will see how they are attached. Just as the breaker is about to be seated, there will be a small amount of resistance. You continue to push through this to get it firmly seated. Once this is done, just reinstall the cover and turn the main back on. (Remember to go around the house and reset all the clocks.) One last thing. This is the most important part. Even though the main breaker is turned off, there is still power in the box. 240 volts and up to 200 amps. At the top of the main breaker are two large wires. This is the service entrance feed from the transformer out on the pole. These two wires are ALWAYS hot. Always keep this in mind if you try this and remove the cover. Stay away from the main breaker when the cover is removed. Turning off the main kills all power throughout the box. But those two terminals on the main breaker will remain hot; and extremely dangerous. If you decide to get an electrician to do this for you, I would imagine he would charge about $60/hr and perhaps $20-$30 for the breaker.

I would suspect that you have back-stab devices in the circuit. They are notorious for failing, especially as they age. These devices use internal spring clips to hold the wires and provide electrical continuity rather than machine screws. I have seen several phantom failures 'cured' by the act of merely removing devices from their junction boxes, leaving the wires connected. As the wires twist slightly in the spring clips, carbon deposits, which are dues to electrical arcing, are chipped away and continuity is restored. A bad design which is still legal on 15 amp circuits.