I just yesterday added a ceiling fan in my boy's room where only a plastic light box existed. The key was a hardware product called "Saf-T-Brace" by Westinghouse. I picked it up at Home depot for about $15.00. One thing you'll realize if you happen to try this product is that the plastic spacers on the ends of the bars were designed to work with 2x4s, which as far as I know are not used for ceiling joists in mobile homes. Therefore I flipped the spacers upside-down so the end "teeth" could grip the wood. Now my boy has a 5-blade,36" fan hanging in his room. Naturally there was only 2-wire existing as switch-leg so fan and light operate off of one switch.

Another option would be to use a wireless fan/light control switch that would control the fan and light separately. This allows you to switch both the fan speeds and dim lights. IÂve installed close to 50 of these in where instead of running 3 wire w/ground to the Fan location from the switch to replace the 2 wire w/ground. At the switch location you just connect the black (Hot) to the black going up to the fan (this makes it hot all the time at the fan location for the receiver). White to whites and ground with grounds. At the fan just follow directions from the package. Wireless receiver black to black for power to the receiver, white to white, blue to fan blue and black to fan black. The only drawback IÂve had with these is the size of the receiver. Sometimes itÂs tough to fit it on certain fans as it doesnÂt really fit in the boxes. It basically needs to fit in the canopy of the fan. As others have said what you had was UNSAFE and could potentially hurt someone or worse. Full Disclosure: I'm not a fan of home cheapo but I do like this switch. Nor do I work for Hampton Bay nor do I own stock in either company. Here is a link that might be useful: Hampton Bay Wireless Ceiling Fan Remote Control

Switches 2008 NEC Article 409.9(B) "Grounding": "Snap switches, including dimmer and similar control switches, shall be connected to an equipment grounding conductor and shall provide a means to connect metal faceplates to the equipment grounding conductor, whether or not a metal faceplate is installed. Snap switches shall be considered to be part of the effective ground-fault current path if either of the following conditions is met: (1) The switch is mounted with metal screws to a metal box or metal cover that is connected to an equipment grounding conductor or to a nonmetallic box with integral means for connecting to an equipment grounding conductor. (2)An equipment bonding jumper is connected to an equipment grounding termination of the snap switch." ---------------------------- Since the original poster makes no mention of a metal box nor any mention of a non-metallic box with an integral means to connect to an equipment grounding conductor, the only type switch that can be used here is one that has its own equipment grounding conductor terminal or equipment grounding conductor. It is a code violation to use the ungrounded switch he purchased and needs to replace it.

Assuming you want to keep the switched outlet separate from the fan and light operation, you need another switch. If you want the outlet to be on the same switch as the fan light then you can proceed with two switches. "1b, 1w, 1r, 1g going to the outlet". Is this a 3-way outlet? That is, is there another switch elsewhere that controls the outlet?