Thanks, kim_okla, I'll do a search at that site. kashka_kat and bluesbarby, thanks for your posts. Unfortunately, we can't leave one wall of the closet as screen or metal mesh. We're building this in our unheated garage and there won't be a door, only an opening, between kitty closet and house - in essence, a flap-less pet door. It would be the same as if we left a window open all the time while running our heat or A/C. That won't do. We originally thought we'd do a regular pet door (with flap) but our kitty is old and I'm not sure he will figure that out, plus as he ages, it may become difficult for him to open the flap. He's used to accessing his litter through a smallish opening - we removed one of the sink cab doors - so we think he won't object to going through the opening into his litter closet. The opening will likely be a bit narrower than he's used to since it will be between the studs (generally 16" on center) but we can make it as tall as he's used to. kashka_kat, I didn't realize that some cats balk at going into closed off spaces with only one exit but I don't think our cat is one of them. About half of the time when we open our hall closet door - a 2 x 3 unlit space with only one exit - he dashes inside. No idea why, maybe he thinks it's some exotic place. ;-) He's even been shut inside the few times we didn't realize he was in there, only realizing it when he meowed to be let out hours later. I'm glad you brought this up because it makes me even more confident that he'll be okay with his new litter closet. As I type this, kitty is sleeping on the ottoman a few feet from me, snoring so cutely! I never knew cats snored but I've never had a kitty live to be as old as he is now (17). And still going strong, according to his vet.

I’d do the walk-in but think about how you can repurpose that space for your use now. Just because it says ‘walk-in closet’ on the plan, it doesn’t mean that’s all you need use it for. Put built-ins for your clothes and then use the rest of the space in the room for a cozy sitting area, or add a small ‘morning kitchen’ type space where you can keep what you need to make a morning or evening drink. With so many people working different hours I think no separate dressing area at all could be a real issue if you ever need to sell. (If you really don’t want it then I’d at least try to keep a room next to the bedroom that could be turned into a closet if someone so prefers in the future, just by putting in a doorway.) ETA: We’re looking at moving to a house that has a not-very-large walk-in closet and I’m pondering a combination of closet and built-ins. The closet has a window, also, so I’m thinking to even put built-ins in there so everything has protection from the sun without needing to have the blind closed all the time. However one reason I think this will likely work okay for us is our wardrobes tend to fit into categories anyway - work clothes versus casual versus lounge versus for-messy-stuff versus specialized sports items, etc. So no one category of stuff is terribly large, which means all of my work clothes should fit in one area of a wardrobe, so I will be able to see it all by opening just one set of doors. I think it would be much more annoying to have to go between multiple areas to put together a single outfit because tops are here, skirts over there, sweaters elsewhere again, etc.

I think a cabinetry-style door would distract from that lovely woodwork. I would cut a piece of plywood to go all the way to the ceiling so that it almost looks as though it's part of the wall. Cut it tall enough to brush the ceiling and the top of the woodwork, and wide enough to overlap on the sides wide enough to attach a hinge to the back on the wall side, and the same distance on the other side. Iron on some edgebanding, and then install a pair (or three) hinges on the right side, and a push latch or touch latch on the other side, so there are no visible hinges or pulls. Paint it all to match the wall. I think that'll be much simpler as well. Trying to match the molding (in shape and stain) could be tough, and I personally would find it easier to install a hinge on the back of the door than on the edge. And you wouldn't have to worry about matching the depth that much either.

jillian, a couple of things: The shower pan is "the floor" of your shower. There should be a waterproofing membrane of some sort under the tile, and it's a code requirement that the waterproof membrane be sloped towards the drain between 1/4" per foot and 1/2" per foot. Now, I'm not talking about the tile itself, which should also be sloped to the drain. In addition to the tile being sloped, the waterproofing membrane needs to be sloped as well. What often happens is installers will pace the membrane flat on the subfloor, then put a sloped layer of what we call "deck mud" on top of the membrane. Nothing at all wrong with deck mud. It's a sand and cement mixture that is fairly porous, so water can percolate through it. Water WILL get past the floor tile and grout. Grout is porous. The water then gets in to the deck mud, just as it is supposed to. It percolates down through the deck mud until it hits the membrane, just as it is supposed to. Once it hits the sloped membrane, the water flows down hill towards the drain and goes out the drain by what we call "weep holes". Weep holes are small passages built into the drain to allow the water to escape the deck mud and eventually go down the drain. Just as it is supposed to! With a sloped membrane, the deck mud may be moist, but it won't be overly saturated and hold water. Now, if your installer put the shower pan membrane flat on the subfloor, when water percolates through the deck mud, it hits the flat membrane and simply sits there. The mud becomes fully saturated. If the bottom edge of the cement board on the walls was covered by deck mud, then the saturated deck mud can wet the wall board, and moisture can slowly wick up the walls, behind the tile. Because it is becoming wet from behind, mold or discoloration can build up BEHIND the glaze. I think one of the nastiest things to do in tiling, or with tile remediation, is to break up and demolish a saturated deck mud shower pan. They can be absolutely nasty. There's primordial ooze in that nasty mud. Anyhow, I tried to give a "nutshell" explanation, my nutshells seem to drag on for a bit. But hopefully this will allow you to better understand a potential issue with your shower. I'm not saying that IS what is wrong, but it's a common issue that presents symptoms similar to the ones you are seeing. Good luck getting it rectified.