Actually, cherry browns naturally.

Look at the info linked.

Here is a link that might be useful: Finishing cherry

Thank you, Handymac.
I'm aware cherry darkens, which is not what I'm necessarily looking for.

The very first paragraph mentions my concern:
"Although the heartwood is a "salmon" pink with streaks of multiple colors running in it when freshly planed, cherry ages to dark color with reddish brown tones and strong orange/yellow undertones. "

I would like to tone down the red.
Interesting link, BTW. Thanks for posting it.

This post was edited by CEFreeman on Tue, Sep 10, 13 at 12:39

Your color theory is correct -- add green to tone down the red and shift toward brown.

The "green" that finishers use most often is Raw Umber. However, unless you go to an old-timey paint store, get a can of stain base and have them add some squirts of raw umber UTC (universal tinting colors -- the stuff on the carousel where they mix the paint color), it's not going to say "raw umber" on the label. It might be "light maple," "Van Dyke Walnut," "heritage pecan" or anything else the manufacturer wants to call a pure raw umber stain.

While true greens will work, it's harder to hit. I've used green colored pencils and I have a "green blocker" aerosol that's bright green. It works better for me to reach for the raw umber.

After many failed attempts of trying to get a raw umber from red, blue, yellow, black and white UTCs, I finally just bought a $7 bottle of raw umber UTC. This will last me many lifetimes. You can have some if you want to swing by,.

The color of stain called _fruitwood_ is in some cases a greenish light brown. I used fruitwood stain from Bartleys (sadly, now defunct) for my white oak cabinets to preserve the white-oak-ness of them and not have them go too golden.
Casey

Bob's My Uncle, I have a watercolor, tiny tube of raw umber. I have also just read the benefits and joys of the UTC. I'll investigate. :) If you're in the DC/MD/VA area, I'll road trip. I'll bring my own jar.

Hey. Since all I have is HD and Lowe's, if they don't have something that makes sense, an art supply store's tube of Raw Umber oil paint work, wouldn't it?

Casey, I will also look for the fruitwood, perhaps by someone else. Two of the doors I've been stripping (God Bless Citristrip -- can I get a Hell Yeah!) have turned out to be oak. How do you tell if it's red or white, as a matter of fact? It's all pretty light once the stain is sucked out . Give it a light sand and it's really, beautifully light.

I appreciate the info guys. I am excited about my "finds" turning out so well.

One manufacturer's fruitwood may not resemble another's at all.

Sorry, I'm about 8 hours west of DC.

This post was edited by bobsmyuncle on Wed, Sep 11, 13 at 22:38

Could you share photos? Thanks!