Hi there~ Well, my DH sharpens mine, but he also runs a sharpening business. But, he does us a diamond edged grinding wheel when he does sharpen them. If nothing else, I would try one of those ceramic sharpening sticks that people use in their kitchens. You sharpen both sides of the arrow, not just the left or right. You should be able to tell which side (front or back) to sharpen by looking at the new one. I've found that mine dull up quite quickly, and the bits I bought weren't cheap, so it helps that they can be sharpened. If none of the above helps, check with your local hardware store--smaller, hometown type if you have one--to see if they have someone who sharpens for them. Good luck! Marlene

Loger: No flack intended just general information. We all have to learn somewhere. I still remember my 1st welding experience , during my Diesel Apprenticship in the early 60.s . It was Gas torch fusion welding back then with appropriate filler rod. My bib tops had more filler rod tip burn holes then a sprinkler hose . Baymee should remember this trial and tribulation during his learning stages . My second Welding upgrading was during my College upgrading during my Stationary Engineering 3rd Class Degree. We used 550 volt 3- phase Lincoln Industrial Welder in the early 70,s and it was required to weld 8 inch x 8 inch test coupons from 1/4 inch hot rolled steel plate in position. 2 complete 8 pass welds in all 4-positions (flat / horizontal / vertical / overhead) I really had a problem initially in horizontal position with undercutting the weld from to hot a heat setting . Most beginners have trouble with adequate penetration in overhead from to cold of a setting. Once completed we cut the coupon into 4 separate strips (vertical band saw) and bent them into a U within a hydraulic bender . If any of the welds cracked we flunked our CWB Exam. My second testing was again Stick welding during my Pressure Vessel Certification U-69 we were required to fabricate a 4 inch x 4 inch x 1/2 inch metal box from 1/8 plate complete with a 1/4 inch weldolet coupling. Once the fabrication was done the box was pressurized 600 psi until it ballooned and then was submerged in water to check for any weld failures (bubbles) identified and again you failed this 1st phase of testing . Before you even got into the Boiler Pipe Weld testing . So yeah have burnt a few sticks of Rod in my Day . Really liked 5/32 Jet Rod , lazy Welders Rod only for flat position welding . Hated Low Hydrogen nasty flux fumes very hazardous. Anyhow been a few yrs since I stick welded , most of my projects are with a Miller Mig these days. Like riding a bicycle you never forget but it will take some practice to get quality welds after a few yrs absence. I remember some of the best welders I worked with during my Industrial Days were the laziest , they could weld on their head once they found a comfortable position. Please take our advice in the fashion (constructive) it is intended all the best Bro :) This post was edited by ewalk on Mon, Oct 14, 13 at 20:06

Carbide drills are fine for concrete...right up till you hit a chunk of quartz. The quartz will nicely polish the end of your drill. A hammer drill will go thru it. I've used diamond tools a fair bit on stone, never hit any metal. But i know they sometimes use diamond grinding equipment on steel, so must be possible to cut steel with diamond tools. I have used some "cast stone" that was a mixture of ground limestone and resin. Steel drills would work fine but dull after a few holes. Carbide drills last much longer, but the cheap variety available at Evil Orange are not very sharp and don't cut very neat holes. I just resharpend a steel bit every 5-6 holes.

Terra cotta is generally pretty soft compared to other materials, like porcelain or masonry, and masonry bits should be fine for drainage holes. If you keep the hole sprayed with water, the bit will cut through the terra cotta better and the bit will wear less from the heat generated. If you have terra cotta pots with holes already drilled, they are likely to already be larger than the bit sizes mentioned. If you try to use those small bits to enlarge holes bigger than the drill, it will be either frustrating, or you may crack the bottom of the pot. Better to either get bigger masonry bits or drill some new holes with the biggest one you have.