Can't help ya on the security system. As for the phone system, why are you contemplating putting an actual PBX/key system in a house? Is your last name Buffet or Ellison, perhaps?

If you can convince me you need a phone system, I could recommend something for you quite easily if you tell me exactly what you are trying to accomplish, in addition to how many lines/extensions/features you see needing.

I need an intercom. Most of the sales reps insist that a phone system is a better choice and similarly priced. I need 10-11 locations (phones) + the front door. I want to be able to call different locations in the house without shouting. Thanks so much.

Try this on for size: http://homesecuritystore.com/ezStore123/DTProductZoom.asp?productID=1820

Adding a phone system just so you can have intercom-like features is like buying a mainframe so you can surf the web - sure it will work, but way overkill.

A wireless solution like the link above, would be your best solution IMHO. No wiring necessary, easy to install, unlimited expandability, etc.

Not that a little shouting every now and again isn't a bad thing. ;)

I am very familiar with the Ademco Vista 20P (now Honeywell 20P) since that is the controller I used for my alarm system that i installed and programmed myself.

I am not familar with Napco but I looked at the 9600 specs and can tell you that it has a lot more capability than the 20P - probably more than you need if you are just wiring up a house with typical sensors (contact, glass break, motion etc).

Are you installing this yourself or are you outsourcing? If you are outsourcing you should call around to other security companies in the area and ask what type of systems they support. The last thing you want is to have a company install a system that only they can support because then you will probably wind up paying a lot when you need service or want upgrades.

I belive the Vista 20P is a widely deployed system, a lot of commercial security companies install the Vista 15P and 20P systems (which is probably why Honeywell bought them). I also believe the Honeywell sensors are top rated. I do not know what Napco's reputation is.

I took a look at the Napco 9600 specs and compared them to the Vista 20P. Here ia a rundown

8 to 96 Hardwired Zones (20P has 8 and can expand up to 48)

Up to 96 Fire Zones, including 8 2-Wire Fire Zones (20P has one 2 wire fire zone but all other zones can be made to monitor fire sensors. You probably only need 1 fire zone on the alarm system that would connect to one of your house smoke detectors. The house smoke detectors are all tied in together electrically so if one goes off - they all go off ).

Fully Self-Programming (the 20P must be programmed for each type of zone. It is very easy to do if you have some experience with programming. If you don't have any experience it will take a lot of time to learn. The manual is good but not great. )

Up to 8 Areas (20P can support 2 partitions)

Up to 96 User Codes (20P can handle a lot of user codes - but it is less than 96. How many do you really need?)

3 On-Board Relay Outputs (20P has 2 on-board relays, can add more with expansion modules)
Supports 4 Wireless Receivers (the 20P can handle any cmbination of wireless or wired sensor - with a max of 48)

Supports 15 Keypads (20P can support 4 keypads - how many do you really need?)
X-10 Support (20P supports X10 too)

Event Log w/ Open/Close Suppress (20P has this too)

Event Scheduler (20P has this feature)

All Major Communication Formats & Secondary Pager Format (20P can page and call)

Telco Line Cut Supervision (20P has this feature)

Output Power Amps (w/ 40VA Transformer, included)0.75/40VA (20P runs off a 2 amp bettary with auto charge)

If you post the number and type of sensors you are considering, i can tell you if the 20P could support it.

I am curious what the quotes are for the alarm system. I did my own with 30 zones, 3 keypads and probably 50 sensors for less than $2500 including all hardware and wire.

Thank you so much for your responses!

tjdabomb70 - How well does the wireless intercom work? It looks great and is so much less expensive than the wired phone systems.

sniffdog - you have been really helpful. We are outsourcing the installation so the labor ups the cost. We need magnetic contacts, (~40) glass break sensors, control panel, keypads, siren, smoke detectors, Carbon monoxide detectors and for some we'll be getting screen alarms.

Thanks again.

Shayle -

In my experience, they work pretty well. As with most wireless devices, though, they can pick up interference from wireless phones (2.4 or 5.8ghz), cell phones, wireless routers, microwave ovens, etc.

Since a device in the situation you described would be short, concise communications, I think any interference picked up would be acceptable, IMHO.

bomber

Shayle

40 glass break sensors? Wow - that is a lot. Are they planning to mount the senors directly to the glass - or are they using a ceiling/wall mount sensor that can cover several windows in one area?

I have about 12 glass break sensors in my home - and it's a good size house (5000+ sq ft). For example - one glass break sensor in the dining room ceiling covers 3 large windows. If you use the Honeywell 1625 Glass break sensor - which comes in several different styles - you can reduce the number of glass break sensors. The 1625 has a range of 25 feet. You might check out this site:

http://www.aesecurity.com

which is where I purchased all of my alarm parts. The site is useful since they provide data sheets on all of the sensors and you can read about their capabilities (and see what they cost).

Be very very careful when dealing with alarm companies - they make their money by charging you per sensor or per zone - so the more sensors or zones they can cram in - the more they make.

As far as zones - you can have multiple sensors tied to a single zone. For example - I have 3 doors on the front of the house where one can enter - the front door, the door through the garage, and then a side patio door. All 3 of these doors have a magnetic sensor - but they are tied to 1 zone. This is commonly called "sensors in series" or "in-series" connections. Obviously- the more sensors you can group in series, the fewer zones you need on the controller and that can allow a smaller alarm panel or fewer zone expander modules.

Another thing to watch out for is the fire monitoring. In my first house, the alarm company refused to tie the alarm system into the house smoke detectors. Instead, they charged me a few hundred dollars for an additional smoke detector that was only tied into the alarm system - and not connected to the house smoke detectors. It was a bunch of bull. A good alarm company can make a tiny little device that allows the 9 volt traveler wire in your house smoke detectors to be monitored (it's the red or yellow wire on the smoke detector). This little traveler wire is what is used to set off all house smoke detectors when only one detects smoke. The alarm company can monitor this signal. If they tell you they can't do it due to code - have them install it after the final inspection. It is a lot cleaner to use your existing home smoke detectors then to have 2 sets of detectors.

The Vista 20P panel might be too small for your system if each of the sensors has a dedicated zone. However, if some of these sensors are grouped in series, then it might be fine.

In my house, I have 12 glass break sensors (each one on a seperate zone), 10 magnetic sensors on doors (3 zones), 3 CO sensor each on a seperate zone, 7 motion sensors each on a seperate zone, and 1 fire zone. A grand total of 25 zones and 32 sensors. I also have 3 keypads. I used the Vista 20P and 3 zone expander modules.

In the future I paln to add a few more glass break sensors in the basement as well as some exterior IR sensors.

Hi,
If you're looking for a home security system comparison you should check out www.usalarmcompanies.info . They give you a free complete comparison of the various home alarm system providers in the US and you can choose one based on the size of your home, your requirements, budget etc.

they tell you they can't do it due to code - have them install it after the final inspection.

Shame on you, sniffdog.

Codes are written for a reason. The people who write the codes are smarter than you, at least collectively.

The guy who installs this for you "after the final inspection" will be liable if there is a problem, and, if he's smart, won't do it for you.

Fire alarms are NOT a good place to be ignoring codes.

FAR better advice would be to use alarm-monitorable smoke detectors THROUGHOUT the house, unless there is an approved, listed, device manufactured for the specific purpose of connecting your existing detectors to an alarm panel. Such a device would be code-compliant.

pharkas

The problem with "alarm-monitorable detectors" is compatibility with the wide number of alarm system controllers.

What I added is perfectly safe and what many security alarm companies use to tie in to existing smoke detectors to provide fire monitoring. It does not interfere with the operation of the smoke detectors because it draws no current from the control line it monitors.

It just so happens that the county inspectors don't allow it because they don't understand how it works. That isn't my problem and I sleep well at night.

sniffdog, IGNORING code is never a good idea, especially for a commercial company, who may very well be sued into oblivion as a result.

All the alarm-monitorable detectors I've seen have two power wires and some combination of conductors (one is sometimes shared with a power wire) that get connected together when an alarm takes place.

I haven't seen a controller that can't interface with that.

In any case, as with everything, you select your hardware to interact with each other.