What's Up With That Horrible Smell From Down Pillows, Coats, etc.
catkin
16 years ago
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Comments (24)
chelone
16 years agosnookums
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Horrible smell in stairwells after rain...
Comments (26)I'm back and I'm not a troll. I'm just irritated because I have the same problem as some of you have. But instead of falling into some weird delusional state about recessed lighting, I'm looking for real answers. I bought the house in 2007 and i noticed the smell, here we are in 2016 and the same smell is there, sometimes it disappears and sometimes it comes back with a vengeance. For a while I thought it was a dead rodent (thats what it smells like), but after a few years that seemed very unlikely. The smell is most pronounced when it is rainy. The wetter the day, the more it smells. It's just embarassing because we rent out our room downstairs to a woman, and i think it sucks that she has to smell it. In addition to the dead animal smell, I sometimes smell...toilet. A strong smell of urine. I was sure the smell was coming from UNDER the stairs, but when i went into the garage and cut out a piece of the wall, stuck my head in the hole along with a flashlight, there was no smell, and absolutely nothing under the stairs. The smell seems to come from the wall that separates our house from the next door neighbor's house (i live in San Francisco, our houses are all squeezed together). I asked my neighbor if he ever smells anything, he said no. So I assume it isn't the wall that joins the two houses. I've never had a professional come look at the house. I don't even know who to ask. I've had plumbers and contractractors in the house for various reasons, and when I mention it to them, they just kinda blow me off. But, maybe I should change my light-switches??? I have plastic light switches near the stairs--maybe light is reflecting off planet venus, getting magnified through my window, melting the light switches? That must be it, case closed, thank god I have the soccer moms on Houzz to help me solve this mystery!...See MoreHorrible Smell in Basement!
Comments (7)Unfortunately, the products you've been using will not eliminate pet odors......they just mask them. You need to use an enzyme product made for cleaning pet urine/feces. I've used the one below and it works. Most pet stores sell these enzymes and they're also sold online. Look for anything recommended by dog/cat kennels! In addition to using the enzyme I'd recommend you seal the concrete after it's thoroughly dry. That should take care of the odor in the concrete. If the cat has sprayed the walls and the odor has seeped into the wood then that odor will be a little more difficult to get rid of. The OdorMute listed below can be used on wood also so I'd probably spray all the walls and the floor during the cleaning. I'd strip the basement bare since it's possible the wood and fabric on any of the remaining furniture has absorbed the odor. While showing the house you should move the cats and their litter boxes to a spare bedroom or the garage and let the realtor know that no one is allowed in those rooms during showings because of pets. If you have a serious buyer, they will return to see the room they couldn't see on the first visit. When showing a home, it's important to remove the pet and as much of its stuff as possible. It doesn't matter that you keep the litter boxes clean if the cat has decided to do their business right before a buyer arrives to view the home. Plus, people who don't own pets often are more sensitive to odors that pet owners are accustomed to. Here is a link that might be useful: enzyme cleaner...See Morecan I wash down coats in a FL?
Comments (9)I've been washing down items for more than three decades. Do use special down soap, not the products made for de-scenting hunting gear (even if the label says to do so). Don't use woolite or lingerie soaps, they can gum up down, destroying the natural loft. You can buy down soaps from camping stores and by mail order from Cuddledown. Use only small quantities of the soap (less than a tablespoon, probably more like a teaspoon or two, max.) Here's the drill: Inspect the item very carefully for tiny rips and tears that can leak down. Make repairs as necessary; if you're resewing or patching use tiny stitches, and use oodles of them. Pre-spot any really stained areas with a small amount of the down soap. Rub it in, let it set, then rinse and repeat. In the worst cases, you may be able to push the down aside enough to use stronger pre-treaters, but must work to keep them away from the down and rinse well before going on. I usually err on the conservative side since additional dirt will be washed away, but weakened fabric or too-harsh treatment of the down can do more damage than a small stain. Remove any detachable hoods. Childrens clothes probably dont have draw strings, but on adult items secure the draw strings in way that doesn't draw in the item. Assemble a mixed lot of down things of about the total bulk of an adult's jacket. (Except of course for comforters and sleeping bags, which are larger. These can be done singley, even in the smaller European 5K machines, but present other challenges.) Put the items in the machine and run a cold, or barely warm fill, short or no agitation, rinse and spin cycle, with no detergent. The purpose of this cycle is to force the air out of the down item using the machine's power. If the items look squashed,"drowned rat" is my usual description, you have suceeded. Now, begin another cycle with warm water and a small amount of the down detergent. Do NOT use regular detergent and do NOT use any fabric softener. This is the actual washing cycle. This should should be a gentle action, relatively short wash, high water level cycle. It's perfectly OK to have a normal spin, in fact it will make getting the tiems dry easier. Move the stuff to the dryer and dry on low for about 45 min to an hour. I use plastic rings made of nylon (like Nylabone dog toys) to help get the down broken up but I don't use them for the first half hour or so to limit wear on the fabric. I prefer to remove the items from the dryer at this point and give them a couple of hours outdoors on a sunny breezy day, followed by a final period of drying in the dryer with the Nylabone rings. It can take several hours of dryer time, so don;t be surprised. At each change over I feel the item carefully to locate any hidden pockets of wet down and nudge them apart. The items are dry when they feel and look dry, puffy and lightweight. But if you are going to store them for the season I would hang them in an airy place for an additional couple of days just to make sure all the moisture is out. Down stuff stored with even a trace of moisture will be ghastly when you get it out again. Better safe than sorry on that. If you have a "down emergency" in either the washer or dryer, stop the machine and collect all the loose down and sew it and the leaking item into an amply-sized cloth packet and continue on with the process. For a child's jacket you would need a pillowcase, larger items need larger encasements. Afterwards you can find the hole(s), restuff the down and close things up tidily. Unless forced by an unexpected event, don't start a down cleaning project unless you will have time to carry it through with no delays. Wet down items (or worse yet, wet feather items like pillows)can get irremediably vile in less than a day if the drying process is not substantially completed. Molly~...See MoreHelp!! Brand New KA Dishwasher Smells Horrible??
Comments (53)@H W, I know. Same. I bought a new Whirlpool dw in 2015. I really liked it, but after about a month, it had the most ghastly stentch that I could not get rid of. Used bleach, more detergent, less detergent, always left the door ajar, did cleaning cycles, ugh. Everything. Then I found a web site that addressed the issue back then. It said to use Borax--about half a cup, in the longest and hottest cycle. (as a dedicated cleaning cycle) I did that a few times and it helped. It was suggested to add a sprinkle of Borax going forward to prevent it coming back. I did that too, and the odor was gone. Last year, I got a new Bosch dw and same. Ugh. This one was a bit more difficult to deal with as it uses less water than the Whirlpool did. However, I kept at it and it's fine now. I have to be careful of the detergent I use in the Bosch as it is fussy, unlike the Whirlpool was. In the Bosch I am using Lemishine dw cleaner monthly, which as far as I can tell is simply citric acid with a lemon scent. I was using the Finish dw cleaner fluid once a month, but I found that hard to obtain after a while. I find the Lemishine cleaner is slightly better. I also add a sprinkle of Lemishine booster (also citric acid, so might be a redundant purchase) to the detergent dispenser a couple times a week. Using this plan along with Finish Quantum detergent pods seems to keep odors away. I also have good luck with Cascade powder dosed at 1 1/2 TBS for my soft water--might have to use a little more with hard water. Hope that helps. ETA, when things were at their worst with the Bosch and the odor changed to general aquarium water scent, I took the advise on some thread on this forum and put copper pieces/fittings, such as from the plumbing section of the hardware store in the dw while running cycles. That put the kabosh on the fish pond scent that was coming up. Gads. Never had these issues back in the older days. Anyways, been there, smelled that and much better now. Take care....See Morechicoryflower
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