+1 billhill Gbig2--if possible, start earlier. Aug 15, as billhill said, or even earlier if you can keep the seed bed moist at all times. Without exception! I'm in Bethlehem and going August 1, but that's going to be difficult to hold. I started plugs for the lawn (to fill in the inevitable bare spots) on June 27. They're easy to keep damp (in seed starters). First sprout was on July 3 already because of the warmth. This morning, there was a nice green fuzz.

Henry, In my part of the world, I have seen glyphosate damage in one public garden. In fifteen years. RRD is the problem I deal with and the simple small narrow leaves often progress to full blown RRD in gardens around here. I can count more than twenty communications I've had from rose gardeners who were told by local experts that it was only herbicide damage, only to have it get worse and worse and they would finally find out about RRD. There is also a local expert here that says it's only a result of too much P in the soil, and cleansing the soil will cure it. Read in the e-book what Glenn Viehmeyer wrote about his problems with rose experts of his time- they told him it was only glyphosate damage. He knew different and eventually THE rose expert (Cynthia Wescott) wrote him and apologised and she hand typed a paper on RRD (then called Witches Broom) because she recognized the danger.

Davidtay, thanks again for your response. So with your input on 90 degrees, it sounds like what I have in mind should work. I also talked to the dealer, but he had a difficult time visualizing my concept. I don't know if I am being clear about this mirror/light idea as I've posted in this thread. For those that would like more information on my idea, imagine a small table top that is an inch thick. Then imagine that I wrap the periphery with a lighting strip, (like a hat band around a hat), mounting it so it will shine out sideways from the table top. This is what I want to do with an oval piece of plywood that is a bit smaller in diameter than my oval mirror. I want to mount the mirror on this oval that is mounted and hard wired to the 12v system. The result would be my mirror would have a back light that would have light shining out sideways from around the circumference of the oval plywood. So there should be no sharp bends, just a curve around. I still wonder if it would look goofy or over the top with respect to "lighting gimmicks". Just because I can do it, doesn't mean I should do it. If anyone else has any thoughts on this idea, I'd be happy to hear you.

The weed n feed combined products are difficult to use and the results are usually unsatisfactory. I think all the forums will tell you that if you need to fertilize, use a fertilizer. If you need to kill weeds, use a herbicide (spot spray with Weed b Gon of WBG Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer). It could be the plantain needs the WBG CCO. It's a different bottle of stuff. Read the bottle label to see if 3 weeks is enough time between spraying. You should not get into a ritual of spraying it every few weeks, though. That's asking for trouble. You seeded at a bad time of year. Why? Because now is the time crabgrass seed is germinating. Also because tender new grass shoots will not have sturdy enough roots to live through the summer heat. Fall is THE time to seed northern grasses. As to fertilizer, the grass needs nitrogen. Whether it needs phosphorous or potassium, you can't tell without a soil test (Logan Labs, $25 - best soil test in the country by far). Having said that, you can apply an organic fertilizer like soybean meal, corn meal, alfalfa pellets, Milorganite, or corn gluten meal at any time without fear. These materials feed the soil microbes which, after 3 weeks, will feed the plants. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. Mowing: Mulch mow at the mower's highest setting for all lawns except bermuda, centipede, and creeping bentgrass. Those should be mowed at the lowest setting. Fertilizer: As indicated above. Dates are Memorial Day, Labor Day, and about Thanksgiving. Note that these dates do NOT match the dates you will get from TV commercials, local radio stations, and newspaper and magazine articles. These dates are the historical dates used by professional grass farmers and ranchers and have been adopted by the lawn community gurus as being the most appropriate for chemical fertilization. If you use organic fertilizer, you can do that any day of the year, or every day of the year. You cannot go wrong with organics unless you bury the grass in it. Spray on fertilizer is good for a few days up to a week. Grass needs pounds of nitrogen to last from season to season. All you get with a spray is fractional diluted ounces of nitrogen.