Vision Pro will be the best option.

Well sweety gardner,it looks like you're in kinda deep already. Its impossible for anyone in this forum to figure out where things went wrong for you and what you hooked up wrong. Hopefully you still have all the info that came with that digital t-stat. What you'll have to do is go wire for wire between the stat and the system just like it shows in the directions. If that can't be done then its time to call in an experienced tech to figure it out.

Well, it seems that the blue wire is not what you expected if the fuse no longer blows. Normally the temperature has to reach the next degree increment to turn off. I have seen several brands that work like this. I have never seen a Ch and Cc. It seems to be an additional setting for the stat. Are you sure it needs to be jumpered? This could affect the stat if done wrong. I have seen blue used as a chassis ground, which would explain the fuse blowing. Check the battery for voltage, if low it will affect the thermostat. Some stats are very temperamental with low voltage. If the color wires are nominal, green should run the fan. One wire jumpered to the red wire should run the fan, after the delay ends. If you jumper grounf you will blow the fuse. Check at the furnace end for where the wires connect. If the green is connected to G, then this would be correct. What kind of ventillation control?

First of all, electric, propane, and coil costs vary across the country. You need to research the rates for each fuel in your area and make a decision accordingly. I will warn you to watch out for propane though; that stuff is pricey and may end up costing you more to run than oil. The equipment sizing in your quotes is indeed all over the map and you need to look into that. The way Manual J load calculations work is: garbage in, garbage out. Assuming all the contractors actually did Manual J and not some other load calc, the only explanation for the different sizing is that they used different values. I would ask to see the calculations so you might be able to see why they vary so much. 40K Trane (TUH1B040), 60K Trane (TUH1B060), 80K Bryant, 85K Thermo Pride, 100K Thermo Pride, what a mess. Actually the 100K Thermo Pride and 80K Bryant will be similar in output because of the differences in efficiency, but the other quotes are all over the place. As for one Trane contractor saying the furnace needed to be moved to the attic and the other didn't, that could be because of physical size differences between the 040 and 060 models quoted? Not really sure what's going on there though. For the heat pump quotes, you are seeing air handlers quoted larger than the outdoor units because the efficiency of the system is higher when you do that. You do sacrifice some dehumidification in the summer, though. Variable speed air handlers are more efficient than multi speed models, and are better at dehumidification. I would strongly recommend going with one if you can swing it. Comfort R is included on all Trane variable speed air handlers and is just a marketing term for the ramping profile on the blower for better dehumidification. It is an OK way to dehumidify, but a better way in my opinion is dehumidify on demand. This lets you set a humidity setpoint, and the system will slow down the variable speed blower when you go above it. You do not need to use a Trane thermostat for any of the system's functions to work. The Trane 803 is a rebranded Honeywell VisionPro 8000 which can only overcool to dehumidify, which is not optimal at all. I would want at least the VisionPro IAQ on any of the systems you were quoted with a variable speed blower. That way you will be fully taking advantage of the equipment you paid for. Heat strip sizing is covered in the Manual J load calculation. They say to size it to 80% of the whole heat load for the home. Some contractors prefer to size to cover 100% in cases where the heat pump fails and you need it to meet the whole load. I'm sure the companies would be happy to give you prices without the maintenance plan. That would be the first place I would go to cut costs. I am not really a Trane guy so can't comment on issues (or lack thereof) with the TAM7 Hyperion air handlers. Hopefully someone else here who works with Trane more can answer that. This post was edited by hvtech42 on Tue, Oct 14, 14 at 15:25