A framer shouldn't have installed the windows. A window installer should have done that portion.

Windows need flashing tape and caulk when installed. If they don't have that, they are leaking or will leak water and air.

I would also check out the drain around the footer. Concrete guys and excavators always ignore that possibility because they don't make mistakes.*wink*

Before you caulk those windows, tell me what surrounds them. Is it 100% brick or is there a wood molding (brickmold) framing the window?

Michael

Michael,
I would say that there is not a frame around the window. I know that it was "framed" in before installing and before the brick went up, but there is not an additional "frame" around the exterior. From what I see, it is just the actual window.
I don't recall any flashing tape. Geez. All I keep thinking about is those posts that have the pics of rotten and molding wood and drywall.
The framer we used will be one we will/would not ever recommend to anyone. My DH did the general contracting to the best of his ability. He took most peoples word that they knew what they were doing (I know what you are thinking), although he did have several things that he had to have corrected. There definately should have been many more corrections, but that is getting off subject.
Anyway, the framer said that he "can install" the windows, and that he has installed the kind that we used. (integrity by marvin) I know that he did not do a great job, but what I need to do is try to fix what was not done properly. No, they were not ever caulked even on the interior that I know of.
Drains around the footer. My DH and I did this ourselves with some of the tips that Rollie gave me. WE used white PVC with wholes in it, and covered it in rock. We used DryLock on the exterior of the poured walls. Hmm...don't remember what else.
Anyway, what would be your next suggestion.
Thanks for the reply,
Stella

Interior caulking isn't required.

Remove a few pieces of interior casing and investigate to make sure the windows are properly insulated around the perimeter. Unless you alreay know that. Normally, a window pro foam is used or fiberglass.

The exterior must be caulked to the brick. What is the gap between the window and the brick?

To get a straight line, use tape to mask the brick. After caulking and tooling, remove the tape. Use at least 3/8" caulk bead around the window.

An elastomeric caulk is best. It's easy to tool and very easy to clean up. Check out Dynaflex 230.

Any questions? email me.

Michael

Depending on the gap around your windows you may need to use a backer rod (foam rope) before you caulk. Usually if you have a gap over a quarter inch you should apply the backer rod. If you had Pella windows it would be required or void your warranty. You could use the Dynaflex Michael referred to or if that's not available you could use Sikaflex, Novaflex or Quad. We use Quad most the time on exterior applications. You could use clear if you would like to but I'd recommend getting the color to match the exterior of your window, assuming you've got the clad exterior.

Since your DH was the GC (General Contractor) I would have hoped he did some research on brick or stucco applications. Hopefully who ever applied the exterior wall covering taped (or flashed) off the windows first. In most states taping off the windows and a drip cap are code. Here in MN they go one step further and require us to pan the bottom sill plate before we install the window. Fortunate for you the Marvin window comes with a drip cap already applied in most cases.
My biggest concern would be the individuals hanging the windows not back caulking the nail fins before they were set. This would void your warranty and give you nothing to fall back on if the window itself failed. Hopefully if it fails, it would be sash related and not require complete removal of the window. In that case you'll be safe from them looking behind the nail fin. If your home is completely bricked all the way around any window removal would be a nightmare. If the front is the only bricked portion of the home then you may be able to get your siding off to inspect the windows. I know this is heart breaking but it will save you catastrophic events down the road.
Hopefully you'll be able to find the leak and shut it off easily. I would highly recommend using a professional caulker to seal around your windows. It would be well worth the expense. Good Luck!!!

I need help please... I bought a home in suburb of MN that was built in 1894 from a well known contractor/flipper in the area. The house has been total updated however, the windows are terrible... they look new but if you put a candle next to the window it almost blows out the flame. You can feel a ton of cold air coming through. I noticed there is no calking around the window and the wood work around the windows. who do I call out to take the window out to see if it was insulated properly when installed and to find out what needs to be done. I am not in a position to replace all the windows. Can you please help me... I have no idea why a known contractor in the area would not seal the windows.. I am shocked.. female that doesn't know many people in town.