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Installation cost of new construction vs. replacement?

11 years ago

We are what to expect as a cost difference on having new construction vs. replacement windows installed?

In our particular instance we have a 1950's brick clad ranch with the original wood double hung windows. Most rooms have single double hung windows, however there are two picture windows that are flanked on each end by a double hung, and one room with three double hungs ganged together in the opening. All the windows currently are trimmed out with aluminum flashing.

Our intent is to switch to casement for both appearance and funcationality with our window treatments. It time were not a concern I could easily install say Anderson 100 series to match the egress window I installed in the basement, but with Fall approaching and the larger picture windows it might be a bit much to do. If I were installing I would go with the new construction and eliminate the ugly flashing and trim out with composite.

As we get quotes, what should we expect, and what should we be looking for? Will I be able to find installers who will leave the windows untrimmed? If so is there an advantage to them to use new construction vs. replacment? If it helps we are in SE Michigan.

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Comments (5)

PRO
Windows on Washington Ltd
11 years ago
You cannot use new construction (i.e. nailing flange) in your application given the brick veneer.

You can do a full tear out and if you think the cladding is ugly (most folks prefer to not paint/maintain the wood/trim exteriors), that is going to be your best bet.

Nothing drastic about that install and should be able to be sourced quite easily through the standard replacement companies.

A full tear out will cost you a pretty penny more and if you test positive for lead, even more so.

Be prepared for those expenses as well as the cost of the composite trim.
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HomeSealed
11 years ago
+1, good advice above. In my experience, the cost difference starts around $200 and only goes up from there depending on other factors.
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Find another dealer. I have always considered replacement windows as something that is made to fit in any frame. Unless the frame size is the same for both your current and new windows, I don't see how they would fit. Perhaps the wide blinds won't fit because the new window is wider than the old window (mainly because all new windows these days are double glazed.) As for LoE, it is a coating that lowers the heat transfer and retards the solar heat gain (i.e., the sun coming in and heating the home - which although good in the winter is very bad in the summer.) The glass manufacturer is probably Cardinal, which makes a number of LoE glasses - 240, 270 & 366. The last two digits are the visual light transmittance in percent (the lower, the more shading.) The 366 seems to be the best glass for any window that would get the summer sun, as it has the best solar heat gain retarding with a good light transmittance (good for east & west.) The 270 is the cheapest, but has low solar gain retarding (good for the north, or south, if the eaves are long enough.) The 240 is almost like a tinted glass, and nowadays is really only put in by cheap contractors who don't want to pay the extra for the 366. Argon or Krypton (or any noble gas) lowers the heat transfer even more - but not enough IMHO (at typical dealer prices) to make it worth it. Besides, evidently the gas bleeds out after a few years, being replaced with plain air, which is about 3/4 Nitrogen and 1/4 oxygen (both diatomic molecules which result in a higher heat transfer coefficient than the noble gases.)
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dzd9fy
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks for the information,I had not thought about the lead aspect on the trim inside which is original and would have to be dealt with by the contractor I am betting.

That said, are there any attractive options for the outside trim over the ugly aluminum cladding that I already have installed over the original brick moulding?
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toddinmn
11 years ago
It would be more likely to find lead paint on the exterior trim, exterior side of sash and frame then the interior window casings. The cost of dealing with lead is going to be there regardless of full frame or insert if it indeed has it. I would reconsider the aluminum cladding, it can look good if done well.
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HomeSealed
11 years ago
1) You can do the lead work yourself, however it would be safer to leave it to a certified pro.
2) While there will be added costs either way, I believe WoW was referring to the fact that added containment measures are needed on a full tear-out as opposed to a replacement, so that option (full tear) would have a higher cost in that area (lead safe procedures).
3) As Todd mentioned, aluminum cladding can be done well by a skilled pro, but there are plenty of other options as well from replacing with new wood, to pvc and composite options in many different profiles. The aluminum is generally the most cost effective.
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