We looked at many window manufacturers (Pella, Marvin, Windsor and a few more) before deciding on BiltBest extruded aluminum casement SDL with wood interior. We also have three triple and one single french door sets on our lower veranda. The lower and front veranda have wooden french doors. My parents ended up using them at their lakehouse and our GC has used them on several homes since working with them for the 1st time on our build. We've been in 4.5 years and no problems. Our first bid was high, so we went from the "mansion series" to the next lower level (in size) which made these windows 6" shorter in height. These are over 6ft tall, we don't miss that 6" and the lake/ridge view was not hurt. We also went through and made many non-operable... but each room has at least one that opens, some like the sunroom, has four operable. These changes lowered the bid by 30K. Their newer site is off-line at the moment: http://www.biltbest-windows-and-patio-doors.com/ But the old one is working: Here is a link that might be useful: BiltBest

Inserts are fine if your original windows were installed really well and there are no air leaks etc. around the old frames. In my case, I'm dealing with a 100 year old home. 30 odd years ago someone came along and did aluminum insert windows. So they hauled out the double hung sashes and slapped aluminum inserts in the cavity. What they of course missed was the fact that the original wood windows were installed with little to no insulation around the rough framing and the brick walls, and the wood window frame itself just sits nailed into the rough framing with little to no insulation (no spray foam in 1910). Plus, there are massive cavities on either side of each window where the counter weights still reside. Nice big open unsealed uninsulated cavities. On top of that, the lathe and plaster construction on the interior of the solid brick walls is such that there is a 1 inch cavity behind all the plaster (vertical strapping on the walls to which the horizontal lathe is nailed). So, all the nice cold air comes in around the old window frames and permeates the walls. Runs into the floor and ceiling joists and continues its journey putting a chill through the house. Factor in a 3 story house with very tall 5-6 foot windows and you get a ton of heat loss. In this case, a full tear-out is the only thing worth doing. Interior trim is all going, the counterweights will come out, loads of spray foam will go in around the rough framing to seal to the brick walls, and the new windows will be installed properly in the rough framing sealed up with more foam. Fresh trim inside and out. Expensive yes, but the only reason to do this is to make the house more comfortable. The few dollars we might save in heating and cooling costs are irrelevant. So again, if the current windows are installed well and you have no heat loss around them, inserts are fine.

keep- I agree, (mostly) tight houses need to be designed correctly. Including wall structure, cladding system, window system, hvac system, and even the interior wall finish type. A very small percentage of builders know enough about tight construction to do it right. However opening a window once a week.......gotta to disagree with you there. That defeats the purpose of tight homes dont you think? You need to install an ERV or HRV, depending on your location. This runs every day, and regulates your air quality. Further more, the moisture levels need to be kept in line. I have Pella double hungs in some parts of the house that are about 8 years old, and the rest are 3 years old. 0 issues, not even condensation. proper install is a key element to any window. I am working on a new house design to start this spring, and I plan on using Pella again, however not the clad but rather their fiberglass Impervia casement windows. These appear to have a pretty basic and flawless design with good hardware. Obviously no rotting issues at all. They are also releasing a vinyl line this summer I hear.

I can't compare Andersen with Pella or any others, or the 200 series v. the 400 series, but I bought Anderson double hung windows and a sliding door, and I am sorely disappointed in them. I paid a LOT, esp. or the door. I had no choice but to get the top of the line because I had to get the bronze exterior color. The screens on the windows are flimsy. The hangers for the screen sliding door are plastic and break all the time. I've had problems with a new lock I installed on the sliding doors in December since December…. I would not buy Andersen again. But for all I know, the others are the same. I and so anti-corporate America right now. The greed is out of control; the mentality of cutting on quality in order to increase profits is anathema to me, but that's what they're doing, everywhere.