I have no experience with RH vanities but am happy with the quality of our RH wood dining table, coffee table, side table and library media cabinet, as well as a metal side table. I also just ordered the salvaged dining sideboard and it seems to be a handsome, sturdy piece of furniture, although it's still sitting in my garage and yet to be used. They work well with our antique pine and oak pieces. My RH furniture pieces are all much nicer than some of the damaged furniture I've seen at the outlets, although my coffee table and media unit came from the outlet and they're perfect (after DH glued back on some loose trim from the media cabinet - but it was 60% off and worth the small effort!). The vanities in the RH stores look pretty nice to me, especially compared to my old 1980's vanity! That said, I wouldn't want to order one if I couldn't see it in person first. When we redo our bathroom I'll probably try to save some money and buy the cabinets from Conestoga or Barkers, with a bargain stone remnant for the counter.

Thank you for your response Tigerdunes. I will definitely check with the bidder on the third party evaporator coil. I specified matched systems having read your prior posts to others extensively, but didn't catch that this evaporator coil wasn't a matching Trane. Thanks. The boiler was sufficient in heating the entire 1200 square feet main floor living space with AND without all the radiators in place. I don't recall the size at the moment, but will check. The HVAC people were all pleased with its size when they looked at it. Because the house is without electric and water service as yet, we are not totally sure the boiler is still in working order. It was not fire damaged, but water from the fire fighters and heat from the fire might have caused some unknown problems, which was another reason to hedge the bet by adding a gas furnace. The second reason for considering a gas furnace, not just A/C is that a realtor who knows the house and its value, - which is considerable for a small house, given its location and craftsman, cedar shingled cottage charm - suggests that some buyers don't like radiator systems, and feels the addition of an alternate heat system and the addition of A/C will be worth it, which is another reason I got the bid for it. The third reason for considering a gas furnace is code compliance, and the cost to do so. The cost of adding hydronic units to the sunroom, pantry, dining room and bath areas to meet code are unnecessary if I install the gas furnace. Anyone wanting to use the radiator system only for heat would have to add these units, or live without them as I did, but code is met with the addition of a furnace. No furnace, and I have to add radiators in the areas mentioned above and detailed below. I agree that a heat pump would be the way to go if we knew for sure that the radiator system was going to be the primary source of heat as it was when I lived in the house. New owners might opt for a forced air system. My question on this is, can a gas furnace be added into the system as cost effectively later as it can be added now with the A/C going in. The new heating system, if installed, l would heat/coo the 1200 sq ft main floor with its 9 ft ceilings, with two registers in the open 950 sq ft unfinished basement. The basement stays cool in summer and warm in winter without additional heating and cooling. The attic space, if developed later, will be heated and cooled with an in-wall, Mitsubishi type system. Trying to run ducts and vents is a problem, which is why we don't have the new proposed system sited in the attic. It would make the attic fairly unusable in a future development as a master suite and sitting room. The ducting layout using the in the basement location has worked well, and the location of cold air returns well placed and spaced. So the attic will not be heated or cooled with this system. In the past, with the boiler, the heat loss from the main floor was enough to keep the attic above freezing, but does not warm it significantly. The attic has 4 large double window sets, 3 large Velux skylights and a 4.0 french door set, and the roof is black, so it stays warm enough on sunny days, and is well ventilated in summer.. The attic floor will be re-insulated at this time, but not the walls or ceiling. The new insulation in the attic floor will be far better than the old, and as I said, the new windows throughout, from basement to attic are a vast improvement in energy efficiency over what the boiler used to have to handle. The 950 sq ft basement is unheated at present, though I believe two registers will be added to this space with the new furnace The basement stays comfortable in winter when the boiler is in operation simply from the hot water pipes to the radiators and hot water heater and warmth of the up stairs. It is is open space, unfinished and only used for laundry and workshop space/tool storage. The dining room radiator was removed from under a south facing bump out window. That window was removed and replaced by an exterior double french door when a new deck was added at the time of the new boiler. The heat loss to this room was noticeable but not enough to be a problem for me, though it would be for others, and it is for code. Each room has to have a heat source, so I either have to put in a register or add a radiator. The bathroom is only 6x7 and is now warmed by the heat/fan which is not sufficient for code. I have a not yet installed hydronic towel bar that gives off 1500 BTU, enough to handle the bath and the small hall adjoining the dining room, bath, bedroom and parlor. If I do the gas furnace, this is unnecessary. At same time the new boiler was installed, a kitchen was installed in a 11x12 ft space that only had a sink and refrigerator with a radiator. An adjoining but separate 6x8 pantry at the south end of the kitchen had a stove and a cabinet. The pantry is also an access corridor to the basement stairs. So in installing a kitchen, I removed the radiator and replaced it with a toe kick radiator under the sink base the fully fitted kitchen. Base and upper cabinets were added to the pantry on the load bearing exterior wall that separated the pantry from the screen 8x8 screened back porch at the other half of the kitchen south wall. The fire that started at the electric service connection into the house was located on the east wall between the kitchen and screen porch, so this area and the attic above it were severely impacted by the fire. In rebuilding this area, the screen porch got a solid foundation, was mostly opened to the kitchen, and serves as a sunroom breakfast area. It is,fully windowed from ceiling to 36 inches above the floor with a door that opens to the deck. The load bearing wall separating the sunroom from the pantry still exists, but the pantry is now open to the kitchen rather than walled off with a doorway. The kitchen toe kick puts out 5,600 BTU and has to handle the kitchen sunroom and pantry area now. If I do not add a furnace, code will require me to heat the sunroom and pantry areas, which I would do with toe kick units under the pantry base cabinets - one venting into the sunroom through the wall and one venting into the pantry. If I add a furnace, this will not be required, we will simply use those areas for the forced air registers. If I do not add a furnace I will have to provide hydronic heat sources for both areas. So, to answer your question 4, the only addition to the heat load that the boiler has covered adequately (1200 sp ft) is the 8x8 fully weatherized and insulated sunroom. If I go with a gas furnace we will add the register(s) for the unfinished basement. I don't know if code requires the basement to be covered. I do know the non living space attic does not need to be covered. Sorry for all the detail, but I find that sooner or later the information is needed, so I am trying to give it all upfront.

CEF, the backsplash tile is crema marfil honed marble. It doesn't have green in it, but you might be seeing some reflected off the counter. We bought it from Cool Tiles (link below), however, after we got it I found something very similar at HD. I'm sure there are other manufacturers/distributors out there also. The problem we had was that the tile was shipped from FL and we are in CA. It was not packed well, and the shipper probably didn't help. It took 3 tries to get us the correct amount of tile unbroken. The price on that website has gone up since we ordered ours. Also, with natural stone tile, there are variations in the material so some may not be aesthetically useable. You need to keep that in mind when ordering unless you can sort through the boxes of tile before buying it. I like it, but it was a bit of a pain. KBS, the fan on the GE range does go on when in regular bake mode, but only at higher temperatures, 425 or 450. so, and yes, it's a bit annoying. I haven't noticed any problem with the vents and back burners. As I've said before, the range is OK. Our old one died, and I had a friend who liked hers, so we got the GE without doing a whole lot of research. We didn't plan on spending a ton of money, and the "remodel" wasn't even on our radar at that point. I might buy it again, but I would check out the other options a lot more carefully first. Lynn, the contractor who refinished the cabinets does a lot of restoration work and mixes his own stains. He worked for several hours at his shop one weekend with me doing samples to finalize the color. Overall, we're very happy with everything. Here is a link that might be useful: marble tile

I have always loved that IKEA kitchen. I see what you're aiming toward, and I'm not saying you shouldn't go in that direction, but painting your cabinetry white isn't necessarily going to get you there. What people don't tell you about sun rooms is that they darken the rooms they are attached to. All the natural light that would have poured into your space is now pouring into the adjacent room, and you're left with a small kitchen window with upper cabinets surrounding it. So what do you do now? Remove the uppers around the window. That means taking out that corner-like cabinet and making the range wall uppers a straight run to the wall. It also possibly means moving those two uppers over the peninsula. Are you interested in making your kitchen window larger? Regardless... you're going to want to invest in really great lighting: cans in the ceiling, under cabinet lighting, and possibly pendants for your peninsula. I know that sounds like a lot for a small space, but it makes a huge difference. Finally, I know you don't want to change your floor plan at all, but I bet the layout folks here can figure out for you how to re-use some of those uppers in the space, or how to reconfigure your existing space to make it function better. It's worth posting your existing layout just to see.