Waterlox, Good Stuff or Tung Oil
dlspellman
16 years ago
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sombreuil_mongrel
16 years agobobismyuncle
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Waterlox Vs Tung Oil - confused need clarification pls
Comments (4)WmWalker's correct that the solvents in Millie"s and Waterlox are different but the statement about Waterlox not being a polymerized oil is misleading. Tung oil, when it dries, bonds to itself - it polymerizes. Polymerization of a drying oil like tung oil before application is basically speeding up the drying process so that more of the solids will sit on the top of the wood (instead of soaking in) to form a thicker protective surface and shorten drying time. Waterlox says that their product includes "resin" but synthetic resins can be made by polymerization - so both products contain oil that will penetrate and dry as well as thicker substances that won't soak in as well and will provide more of a surface finish, as well as hardening more quickly. There's no reason to believe that Millie's polymerized oil is any more durable than what's in Waterlox. It may be, but you'd only know that by testing it. The "toxic ingredients" in Waterlox is mineral spirits that evaporate out of the finish when it's dry. Citrus solvent also evaporates and is irritating to the eyes, lungs, and skin and should - like products containing mineral spirits - be applied with good ventilation until dry. Citrus solvent is in the same family of chemicals as turpentine, and mineral spirits were developed as a substitute for the more toxic turpentine. Millie's may be a great product but the text describing why they're better than other tung oil products is irritatingly misleading. I don't have any financial interest in any of them and I've used pure tung oil with citrus solvent for wood used in food prep and pure tung oil and then Waterlox for table tops. I prefer the smell of the citrus solvent but I don't get any of them near flames or use them without good ventilation....See MoreStaining floors over tung oil( Waterlox)?
Comments (3)All wood is UV sensitive. Some more than other species. You can tint the Waterlox, with stain, or at least some of the finish gurus, do it, as first coats on hard to stain woods, like Maple and Pine, to avoid that blotchy appearance associated with staining those species. Other then that a complete sanding is the only way to get back to bare un-patina wood....See MoreTung oil + urethane?
Comments (2)I'm not sure about how it would work on a counter top but I like to mix equal amounts of Tung oil, polyurethane and boilded linseed oil. Gradually build up the finish and after 3-4 applications you have a mirror like finish that is very durable...See MoreWood Countertop Oil? Tung vs Mineral
Comments (28)Thanks to everyone here for all the great advise! Here's a company called Woodworker's Supply (woodworkers.com) website I found to purchase three types food-safe finishes. I also checked the John Boos Company which manufactures both residential and commercial butcher block and wood countertops and cutting boards for prices on their Mystery Oil and Boos Cream which combines mineral oil and beeswax, which is rather expensive, but the website has a lot of helpful information in their FAQ section. GENERAL FINISHES AND BEHLEN Salad Bowl Finish are formulated to create a non-toxic, food safe finish coating. Apply to raw wood, allow 6 hours dry time before recoating, then wait 72 hours prior to use. Pint, quart or gallon cans. Preserve™ contains a blend of oils from the meats of exotic nuts. Immediately safe upon application (made without toxic driers or solvents). 8 oz. squeeze bottle. Clapham's Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish is made with natural beeswax with oil and is perfect for use on cutting boards, cheese boards, fruit or salad bowls, toys, utensils and more. Ready for use immediately after application. Buffs to an elegant shine once it dries. 8 oz. container. http://woodworker.com/gen-fin-salad-bowl-finish-mssu-107-279.asp...See Morebobismyuncle
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