Post this in the Electrical Forum, it's very active there. When the light gets brighter without flickering is there an electric dryer or electric stove/cooktop operating? For the nonoperating lights look for a GFCI in the garage or other unlikely place.

I'm seeing more and more of these cr@ppy nonstandard shoplights these days, with weird ballasts built into the lamp tombstones and such. They're sold at the big box stores, usually for less than $10 each. They're basically disposable fixtures. When the ballasts quit, you're supposed to junk the whole fixture. These are bad news, IMO. But if yours are older ones (or better quality) they'll have standard, if perhaps slightly shrunken, ballasts inside the steel cases. Remove the lamps, take out the screws or clips, and open 'em up. If inside you find rectangular black boxes with wires coming out of 'em, those are the ballasts. If they serve the same kinds of lamps (rapid start vs instant start, same wattage, T12 vs T8, etc.) they are usually pretty much interchangeable. To say it another way, most ballasts for the same # of 32 watt instant start lamps are interchangeable. Most ballasts for the same # of 40 watt rapid start lamps are interchangeable. Watch out for the weird ones that also support 25 watt lamps, common in shoplight.s If you have 25 watt lamps you might have to replace them with 40 watt lamps. HTH.

I have the exact same issue but performed a few different troubleshooting steps that were not mentioned here. To begin, this is a rental home built in 1972. All aluminum wiring with some copper for lighting overhead that was updated in 2009. My washer is brand new, LG high efficiency & overpriced. I’ll add that I have a matching oversized LG gas dryer too. They both plug into 1 receptacle with the a top and bottom outlet. This is wired back to the breaker box as 2 20 amp circuits. They share a neutral wire. The circuit breakers were old and not joined with any bar that physically connected the two switches into one so that one off makes both off. The receptacle was old, loose and burnt up some. And even more concerning, the tab on the line (right side) was not broken to properly separate the top and bottom circuits. Luckily I didn’t find out the hard way. Although the panel was not labeled/correctly, I went through process of elimination by turning everything off and then testing one breaker one at a time and matched to outlet(s)& lighting it controlled. I assume that someone replaced this laundry receptacle at least once in the distant past and forgot to break the right tab. I replaced the receptacle with a new 20 amp outlet and broke the tab on the right side only. There is a red & black wire (on right with tab connecting top to bottom removed) and one shared neutral wire that is white (on left with tab intact.). It is also grounded of course. I also replaced the two circuit breakers in the box with new and specifically for this type of setup. It has the bar that physically joins the switches for off and on. I also checked and tightened all neutrals in the panel. But even after all that, the damn dimming still occurs when agitating. I should add that all my lighting is LED too. Here is the last important clue that I would think others could try too. I was doing some laundry and it had just started to agitate and dim like always. Just as a temporary measure, I paused the cycle & then hooked my washer up with an extension cord to another nearby circuit. It’s about ten feet away and it’s a heavy duty cord but was my last straw of an idea to check & was not a permanent arrangement. Anyways, the washing machine worked fine and there was no dimming throughout the entire cycle. I left it like that for a few days and it continued to perform without dimming the lights. Additionally, this dimming would occur whether the dryer was also being used or when it was off. Keep in mind that they share one neutral. I tested both the top and bottom outlets and the readings all indicate a grounded correct setup. There is no open neutral. I still don’t know why it does this but believe it is definitely related to wiring, not machine. Perhaps i also need power company to come out like person above had when their issue was resolved. I’m moving to purchased home in a matter of weeks so the landlord can decide how to proceed from here. just to give you an idea of the mess this was....

I'm bothered by some instances of flashing lights, such as sunlight through trees, or the flickering of a computer monitor. And similar to what Meme Moma describes I sometimes experience migraines that start as he/she describes. Often if I consume enough caffeine quickly enough when the visual symptoms start I can prevent it from becoming a full-blown migraine. Interestingly a co-worker sometimes wears a jacket that has a jagged, black and white, zig-zag pattern, and for me at least her jacket looks like a migraine especially when viewed under fast flickering fluorescent lights. If I look at her jacket for more than a few seconds the pattern seems to start shifting or vibrating or shaking. Another time a different co-worker was next to me with her laptop that had a wildly animating screen saver program. I started watching the fascinating patterns and then >nothing< and then meeting was over. I'm not sure whether I was asleep or in a trance or what, but at least ten minutes was just gone.