You may be able to "backfeed" a two-pole breaker at your sub-panel. That is, you ignore the two hot lugs and connect the two hot wires to the "pseudo-main" breaker (my term) so that the incoming current goes through the breaker "backwards" to the hot busses. HOWEVER, to do this legally, you'll need a hold-down kit for the backfed breaker to prevent someone from pulling out an energized breaker accidentally or ignorantly. I have no idea whether a hold-down kit is available for that particular panel. Another possible low-cost workaround is to install a cheap disconnect ahead of the panel. 30- 60- and/or 70-amp disconnects (often marketed as air conditioning disconnects) can be purchased at big box stores for as low as about $10. Because you're planning to put a six-slot panel in a separate building, you'll also need to drive at least one (and probably two) grounding electrode(s) to be connected to the panel ground bar with #6 (or larger) copper wire. Since you seem pretty certain that you'll never need more than those two circuits, it might be worth pointing out that you may have another available option. That is, you could run a single 20-amp circuit to the shed and skip having a sub-panel (as well as local ground rods) altogether. In this context, the definition of "single circuit" includes what is known as a "multiwire branch circuit" (MWBC) having two hots and a shared neutral. An MWBC can then be split into what amounts to two circuits at the shed. So, if you size both of the circuits in the shed at 20 amps, you can use one hot for your receptacles and the other for your lights, sharing the single neutral. Of course, your lighting circuit will have to be wired with #12 wire (whereas #14 would be OK for the lights if it were a 15-amp circuit) but that would probably not add anything to the costs because, as often as not, you save money by using one wire size. The obvious disadvantage of running an MWBC without a subpanel is that if you exceed the overcurrent limit on either your lighting or your receptacles, they'll both trip simultaneously and you'll have to walk back to the house to reset. (The breaker in your main panel must be a double breaker with the hots on opposite poles -- never two independent breakers!) If you want to investigate this second option, be sure to run it by your local AHJ (inspector or permit-issuing office) first. Based on a couple of anecdotal accounts I've read on this forum, some local codes do not permit the MWBC approach. YMMV.

For a metallic water pipe entering the house: 250.52 Grounding Electrodes (A) Electrodes Permitted for Grounding (1) Metal Underground Water Pipe A metal underground water pipe in direct contact with the earth for 3.0 m (10 ft) or more (including any metal well casing effectively bonded to the pipe) and electrically continuous (or made electrically continuous by bonding around insulating joints or insulating pipe) to the points of connection of the grounding electrode conductor and the bonding conductors. Interior metal water piping located more than 1.52 m (5 ft) from the point of entrance to the building shall not be used as a part of the grounding electrode system or as a conductor to interconnect electrodes that are part of the grounding electrode system. Plus 250.53(D) For a non-metallic water pipe feeding the house: V. Bonding 250.104 Bonding of Piping Systems and Exposed Structural Steel (A) Metal Water Piping The metal water piping system shall be bonded as required in (A)(1), (A)(2), or (A)(3) of this section. The bonding jumper(s) shall be installed in accordance with 250.64(A), (B), and (E). The points of attachment of the bonding jumper(s) shall be accessible. (1) General Metal water piping system(s) installed in or attached to a building or structure shall be bonded to the service equipment enclosure, the grounded conductor at the service, the grounding electrode conductor where of sufficient size, or to the one or more grounding electrodes used. The bonding jumper(s) shall be sized in accordance with Table 250.66 except as permitted in 250.104(A)(2) and (A)(3).

Spencer, Thanks for the suggestions. I really hate the idea of stripping out the old feeds and upgrading since it was a tidy job & I love the BX style cable since the rodents can't eat it... I have been reading another thread regarding sub-panels, & understand that the controlling breaker & wire size must be matched, while the ostensible capacity for the subpanel could be higher. I've already relocated laundry to the new main; I have the wire for the wall oven below the first sub panel, but I could easily put in a j-box, and continue the run to the main as well. A/C would likely be at the farthest point from the main panel--a good 140' away so easiest attachment would be into subpanel 2. So main has/would have: -220v dryer -inside/outside lighting (15a) -inside lighting (office/workroom) (15a) -office wall plugs (20a) New: -GFCI washer / laundry counter 20a -GFCI-garage 20a -GFCI-powder room 20a -GFCI-master bath -garage (power tools) 220v 15a ?-wall oven 220v 40a 1st sub: 3-lighting circuit (15a) 2-mixed lighting/plugs (15a) 2-plug circuits (20a) -Furnace 1 110v 15a New: 2-GFCI kitchen (20a) 1-light/plug circuit kitchen (15a) 2nd sub: -well pump-220v (20a) -fridge (15a) -dishwasher (20a) -furnace 2 (15a) 2-plugs (20a) 6-light/plugs (15a) New: -GFCI kitchen (#3) (20a) -range hood/microwave (20a) -GFCI bathroom (20a) -underfloor heat bathroom (15a) ? A/C system 220v (??a) The first sub looks like it would likely be fine with a 60a. Do you think the load on the second sub is high enough to warrant a 100a? Would it take a typical A/C and the rest with a 100a capacity? Cheers, Dean

I personally do have 3 electrically-powered welders and a plasma cutter. I would not use them at my residence unless actually working on the house with them. The fire danger is too great. Mine are housed about 800 feet away in a separate building. A number of residences in this area have burned from the use of welders in attached garages and basements. One of my neighbors lost his unattached garage this week. They suspect some problem while charging a motorcycle battery unattended. The house sustained heat damage. In 1960, I worked in a millwright crew and we had a person "spark" watch for 45 minutes after welding stopped before that person could leave the area. Overtime work!