Do I need to repair some rot in the sill when getting replacement
jason593
17 years ago
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fusion866
17 years agoWindows on Washington Ltd
17 years agoRelated Discussions
When do you get a 'new' car - or, when do you call it quits?
Comments (13)Thanks everyone for your insights. Over the last 29 years, between DH & I, we've had 10 Fords. Every one has lasted 10+ years and the lowest mileage one we had when traded was 135,000. I think this 2002 Taurus is just a "dud" but I've had 3 other Taurus' since 1986 & had excellent records. I had a 1989 Ford Explorer that ran over 200K miles & 13 years. I sold it for $2,000 when I bought the current Taurus and some college kid is probably still delivering pizzas in it! And the love of my life was my 1983 red Thunderbird - DH and I traded it back and forth for 13 years, until our 2nd son was born and the back seat was way too small for 2 car seats. My mechanic gave me a good insight on the "gas guzzler" Crown Vic when I discussed with him what he would buy if he were looking for a used car and had less than $10K to spend. He said he'd go for a full size sedan becuase they still get around 20 mpg, and cost around &8 to $10K. If I kept the car for 6 years, and gas even went back to $4 a gallon, I'd still spend way less total than buying a small car for $14K or more. Plus with 3 unusually tall boys, a small car just won't fit us. He said his top pic for a used sedan would be a Nissan Maxima but it's just not big enough for us. I am very hard on cars - I only live 3 miles from work and most days drive 10 miles or less of 'stop at every corner' type driving. That's really hard on a car, so if my Fords have lasted 135,000 or miles or more, it's like double that in highway miles. I will most likely buy another Ford, mostly because of my good experience up to now, and also because Ford is in better financial condition and will be around to honor any warranty. I know intellectually that I should get rid of this car before it blows, but emotionally I'm just not sure I am ready to spend the $$ on a "new" car. Every time I say I'm going to look at cars, I come up with an excuse not to. I just took 2 weeks off work and had several days with no plans, but never managed to make it to look at cars. I live right in the city & near a major business corridor with 5 or 6 dealerships in a 5 mile stretch, but still can't seem to make it over there!...See MoreDo I need a Underlayment over Joists when Replacing Porch Floor?
Comments (3)It's not required but I''l say that laying a simple piece of 15lb. roofing felt on top of the joists goes a long way at preventing the tops from rotting out. Rain run off and moisture get to this surface through the gaps in the decking and it takes a long time to dry out relative to the rest of the structure. The water retention promotes rot. The membrane will keep the water off of the joists. Ice/water shield has the extra benefit of sealing around the decking nails/screws however by design it doesn't cure. Therefore I can see it flowing and possibly dripping in hot summer weather. Plus it's more expensive than the felt. I'd recommend the felt. YMMV...See Moreleaking exterior window sill: replace the framing?
Comments (8)I had to do some temporary fixes with windows that were rotted that looks similar to yours. I just had to wait until I could afford it. I used that wood hardener like you did. To fill in the void after digging out all the rot I used whatever, small pieces of wood. I would put some wood, or something solid under window to keep it supported. I also used some spray foam, use the stuff for windows and doors, it is not supposed to expand so much. I also used some wood putty (not the stuff used for filling nail holes) There is a wood putty that is ready to use, I think made by the same place that makes wood hardener. The other wood putty, it's a powder that you mix with water, Durhams. I then painted/primed to give it more protection...I had 5 windows that looked similar to yours. When we got enough money together to replace we had to replace the bottom framing and a stud or two on a few of them. Yes, I do think the sill/bottom is a support. They are nailed into the side, but the bottom I am sure is "what holds it up." Also, I spray some bleach around the area to kill mold spores, I read somewhere a mixture using borax is good for that too. But after wetting it with the bleach you need to dry it out really good before you seal it all up. The two windows that I had to have studs/bottom 2x4 (that supports the window) replaced I had to tear out drywall and dried it out using fans and portable heaters....See MoreAnticipating repairs and replacements when selecting appliances
Comments (7)In our previous kitchen, we remodeled with a few replacement options in mind. We put in a 36" wide, 69" tall fridge, but placed the cabinet above it to accommodate a taller fridge (72") and put a removable panel over the gap so the look was clean. If we wanted to switch to a taller built in style at some point, the upper cabinet doors and bottom shelf could come out and the side panels could still be used, as they went floor to ceiling. In addition, we put in thin trim pieces around the dishwasher so we could go back to an American brand if we needed to in future. Built in ovens we had room below if we removed a shallow drawer to fit a different vertical dimension, and the 30 inch width is standard. Cooktop would potentially have been a problem to replace as the granite was cut to fit it. I hope to be able to create some options like these this time around. We'll see if it will work out. (We used Neff cabinets at the old place which may be more easy to adapt in this way versus others - I don't know. Hope to use Neff again - they were really great cabinets.) In our experience at the old place both the fridge (Jenn Air) and the dishwasher (Miele) were what needed to be replaced in the 13-ish years post-remodel. All the other appliances were still working great when we sold....See MoreWindows on Washington Ltd
17 years agobryandwp
15 years agoizzie
15 years ago
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