Personally I think you would be much better off both economically and longevity using the solid galvanized high-tensile fencing type cable over a clothes-line grade braided cable. There are defiantly braided cables that will work, but I would surprise if they did not cost quite a bit more. The description you posted "high-tensile (210,000 p.s.i.), steel wire with a class III galvanizing" is referencing this type wire. TSC (Tractor Supply Company) sells a coil of 9 gauge 170 foot for $14, and the same price for 300+ feet of 12.5 gauge. My Lowes carries the 9 gauge for about $18 I think. The tag may just label weight a 10 LB. A 10 lb coil of 9 gauge is 170 feet. The stuff is stiff and hard to work with tying a knot in 9 gauge is not easy. You can use the U shaped cable clamps if you want. The Gripples referenced above in this thread work great on this stuff. A large gripple for 9 gauge or a medium gripple for 12.5 gauge. I would also consider a in line tensioner or wire strainer at one end, which can really help you keep the wire tight, and only 3 or 4 bucks there are 2 sizes listed on below link. I going to post 2 links one to show wire type another to the wire strainer, the wire link is for a larger coil, and is the 12.5 I would go with the 9 Gauge. Just pasting in the text here as only one link allowed below, so just cut and paste these links. Most any farm supply store, or fencing supplier will have these in stock the wire and strainer, but you probably have to get the gripples online if you choose to use them, but with a 25 foot trellis you have no real great need for the gripple. http://www.tractorsupply.com/fencing/electric-fencing/high-tensile-electric-fence-accessories/high-tensile-wire-12-1-2-ga-4-000-ft-coil-3601326 http://www.tractorsupply.com/fencing/electric-fencing/high-tensile-electric-fence-accessories/wire-strainer-3601180 Here is a link that might be useful: TSC high-tensile fencing

Wertach, I stretch the wire from one end of the row to the other and tie it off to the top of the end posts. Then I take short pieces of wire about 16 inches long and double loop them to tie the main wire to the posts in between the ends. Then I put in end anchors and run a short wire about 6 feet long from the anchor up to the top of the post. Once the top wire is in and the anchors are holding the tension, I install the bottom wire by stretching it from end post to end post and similarly tying it with short wires to the middle posts. The bottom wire should be about 12 to 16 inches above the ground so you can hoe beneath it. When both top and bottom wires are in place, I then run a coil of hay twine from top to bottom in zigzags so the beans have something to climb. At the end of the season, it is all easily taken down and composted, the wires are stored for next year, and the posts are removed so I can cultivate the soil. There is a long structural strength reason why I do it exactly this way as compared to some other ways you can think up. I've considered all the alternatives and decided this is the one that gives the greatest strength. My bean trellises have withstood 100 mph winds with no problems. I strongly (pun intended) recommend using 8 ft T-posts. Any pole bean worth its name will outgrow a 6 ft post. You could use 6 ft posts with half runners. DarJones

If it's an integrifolia which doesn't climb well on its own, I plant in the middle, but for most clematis I plant two on the the outside on opposite sides. It only took an hour or two to do these. I used 3/8" steel rod cut to length with a hacksaw, but precut 1/2" rebar can be bought in 8' (I think) lengths at the big box stores. Wire twists used by concrete guys join the rods at the top of the tripod (though you can also use black or brown plastic zip ties or hose clamps) and an old cable from a garage door that got replaced is what spirals up the trellis, but any kind of rust resistant heavy wire would do. So all those are all fairly easily found materials in a hardware or big box store. They get topped with whatever I can find that creates a sort of a finial to camouflage the place where the rods join: glass lamp globes, an old plastic doll head, part of a brass candlestick, or in this case, an old truck spring and the steel circle from an old wagon wheel hub which may get a light-weight ball in the center if I can find one I like. I also have made flat trellises from folding metal bakers' racks that I've found used and free or inexpensive. They are held upright by rebar planted a couple feet into the ground next to them and fastened in place with more wire concrete ties or zip ties. On this one (photographed before I fastened it to its support rebar) I spot welded the shelves in place and the hinges to hold the side panels open, but the one I'm doing now, I think I'll just be using wire again. From Mar 17, 2011 I tend to browse Craigslist, our transfer station's metal bin, or curbside recycling with the thought of whether I can make a functional trellis by recycling an inexpensive item.

Rope won't last very long inside a high tunnel unless it is UV protected. An alternate to rope is wire but if you want to do a better job support the roller hooks from perlins with a "S"-hook, one for each roller hook. "S" hooks come in any length you want from 6" to 36", are super sturdy and since they are directly attached to the perlin when you won't have many of of your roller hooks fly off a wire when you "twang" the wire...and it will happen. I have not used the roller hooks but use the tomahooks. When I built my first high tunnel (20x96) I didn't think the frame would support the tomato weight and being impressed with high tensile fencing I burried telephone poles, braced and twitched, at each end of the high tunnel and strung 9 guage, 1800 lb, tensile strength wire through the high tunnel using a single open chain link and metal strap attached to arches to just hold the wire up. It works but I would never do that again. When I take one tomahook off the wire 5 others spring off as well For my followup High tunnel (30x96) I have 8 perlins that the "S" hooks are always hanging from. I slide them along the perlin to position them when starting plants on stringline. Center perlins have longer "S" hooks, two tomato rows per perlin; side perlins have shorter ones. You still want your roller hooks at least 7-8 ft. high IMO to allow plants room to grow while keeping ripening fruit between knee and shoulder height. Your roller hooks will be easier to lower plants than my tomahooks but the price for 800 roller hooks puts them out of my price range. I got all of my tomahooks at auction for practically peanuts b/c nobody knew what they were. So if you still want to tension the wire go to a Tractor Supply store or order the "In-line strainers" online from a high tensile fence supply outlet. Some strainers are meant to be tensioned with a special tool, others are tightened with a 1/2" rachet wrench. They are usually $2-$3 each and will last as long as your galvanized structure. Oh, the "S" hooks are available from greenhouse supply centers (ref. Nolts Supply, Leola, PA) and they cost ~$12- $37.50 (36") for bundles of 100.