Keep in mind that when the door is OPEN it is IN the pocket. When the door is CLOSED it is OUT of the pocket. The 2x6 is turned 90 degrees so the wide face is exposed to the room, and they are used in pairs on EACH side of the pocket (both rooms). You could also just use 2x4s, but turned flat they still flex. The extra wood in the 2x6 helps stiffen the wall back to nearly normal. It also provides the extra depth required to mount any electrical boxes in the wall compared to the metal wrapped 1x in the pre-framed kits. If you use the angle trick to capture the bottom of the door, when a regular width door is closed it will be pretty much OUT of the pocket. This means it is NOT caught on the angle but is free to swing. By extending the door (or using the next LARGER width door, some of the door will remain in the pocket when it is closed. This allows it to stay captured on the track. The pocket needs to be deeper to allow the door to open all the way. The track should also NEVER be attached to a header in a weight bearing wall. A secondary header should be installed with about a 1/2 inch clearance below the structural header. If the header bows (and they all do to some extent) it can cause problems with the track. If the wall is NOT weight bearing the header will not be loaded and you CAN omit the second header.

Thanks for the comments - The situation gets stickier - I talked to the PM, and he said he already BOUGHT the "homemade" pocket door frames he described. He hadn't mentioned that. I'm really irritated now. This after multiple emails to him going back over the fall where I asked him to hold of purchasing a frame unit yet, and even as recently as January 9, we talked about what features were paramount. So now, not only am I uncertain why "his" frame is any better than well-regarded frames, I'm feeling pushed into taking something I know nothing about. I said to him, ok, if you put them in and the doors don't work well for daily/frequent use, are you prepared to do them over? DH says I'm being too nasty and not trusting - he's a "professional". I just get the sense he's trying to get away as cheaply as possible. Maybe I'm not trusting, but this is the second thing he's bought before we confirmed. The Architect plan had two window sizes shown as possible, based on our preferences. I had told him that was a place holder, and then when we met to review that wall (above the tub), he said he had ordered it months ago. And of course, he bought the smaller, thus cheaper one. So the real frustration is that I know of no way to kick the tires on a pocket door. Do I trust the guy as a "pro", or bunches of online reviews from contractors & homeowners? Would asking him to give me references for that door unit be fair? Thanks.... we've had a bunch of delays between a major architect screwup and some walls not built as the plans showed in 1979, and so I know he's trying to catch back up on the schedule a bit (was due for completion before Xmas). Such fun!

HI all. I've down the pocket door rabbit hole for quite a while. I am looking for three (3) pocket doors, all in - 32" for all. Two will be into and out of a walk through closet and one will be into a water closet (poop room). I have used Johnson and I don't want to do it again. It is 2023, April and everything is so much more expensive than I remember but here is what I could find - All Hawa w/ Futura frame and 80/Z soft close - $1,006 Cavity Sliders, with soft close - in stock locally - $720 HDPocketDoors - 80/Z $986 80/B $1278 I am leaning toward HDPocketDoors - looks like a solid frame with Hawa hardware at a reasonable price. Some questions for y'all - 80Z vs 80B ..... What I like about 80B is the whole mechanism is removable without tearing out hte wall. The top/carrier track stays in and you can remove and adjust and level the actual running track. Pretty slick. But it is a mortised connection to the door and will likely stack up costs as I figure out how to implement. Nothing wrong with 80Z 2x6 vs 2x4 - I can do 2x6 everywhere, even in the existing wall with some added meat. I think a 1-3/4" door and a 2x6 frame will make life easier with install, clearance, and choice of pocket hardware - thoughts ? Cavity Sliders - anybody out there use them ??

I don't have any good ideas for framing these post cards. However, while thinking about the problem, it occured to me that one of the things you lose when you frame them is the ability to flip them over and read them. I can only imagine what great conversations about relatives and friends and their adventures these cards could spark. Might you consider, in addition to your art project, making a coffee table book out of them? You can scan both sides of a selection of the cards and have them made into a lovely book by places like Shutterfly and Tinyprints. Could be a nice holiday present for family memebers too.