I would just wish that Vintage Gardens would have the financial resources and manpower "to do it all". I think, that being able to visit a rose garden is always a very special treat for any rose lover and I feel, it is a little bit sad that they can not open their garden this year. Hopefully next year things will be different. Christina Here is a link that might be useful: Organic Garden Dreams

Used to visit Grangers and buy from them in the 1980’s when i had my violet business. closed my business, moved from WV to VA and went back to teaching. Unfortunately, due to a house fire in 1990, i lost most of my collection. i have Kilauea (growing babies from bloom stems) , Emilie Savage, Artcturua, Firebird and leaves of Wonderland Would love to purchase Granger’s Heart’s Desire, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, Desert Dawn, Lavendar Tempest, Garnet Elf, Coralette, and Seafoam Would also like White Madonna (suppose to be their first plant). Bought the original Valencia and Desert Dawn for $50, brought them home, crowned them out and sold the babies Hate that all the Eyerdoms that i knew have passed away. Last i was up there was when they were closing in 1996.

When was the last time you added chips - that is, how aged are they? If it's been a couple of years and there aren't too many, till them in as Mike suggested. If there are still a fair amount there or they are fresher, rake them off and stockpile them in a heap in a back corner or in a couple of trash cans, or use them as mulch under existing shrubs. Too many wood chips trying to rot in your soil will reduce available nitrogen in the short term, though wood chips on the surface aren't an issue since the roots are lower down. You can use the chips to cover paths in the veggie garden to reduce weeds once it is created. The soil is probably better under the play area than it started out since wood chips have been breaking down and adding organic matter for years. I'd till in well rotted manure if it's available along with leftover wood chips and then plant. You also might want to get a soil test done if the soils in your area are really acidic (here I need to add lime or wood ash) or basic since veggies are happiest closer to the middle of the pH scale. The main potential problem I can see is that you don't want to be tilling and walking on your beds when the soil is wet in the spring, so wait until the soil is slightly damp as opposed to really wet before tilling or turning with a spading fork. I usually do all my soil prep in the fall when it's drier and then plant directly into the beds in the spring once they have dried out some. Whether you do raised beds or in-ground beds depends on your preferences; I don't anticipate any issues with the soil under your playground. In-ground beds will need to be edged along any shared borders with the lawn to keep grass out. This can be a cut edge (V shaped in cross section) or a buried edging. Raised beds will need to be created. Raised beds will drain better and warm sooner in spring. In ground beds will be warmer in winter for crops like garlic or rhubarb, though that may not be an issue in zone 6. IMO raised beds need less bending and squatting, but are easier to turn soil in than raised beds, but that's just my opinion. From past experience, I wouldn't make beds more than 4' wide at the most since that will allow your arms to reach the bed's center without having to step into the bed. This forum is fine, and there is also a vegetable garden forum if you don't get enough info here.

Good Idea! I'd watch for pressure treated lumber though.