Heavy cardboard tubes
21 years ago
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PHOTOS of Roses On Tripods
Comments (39)Yes I do remember to take pictures of ideas I can use later! And the bottom part was interesting so the idea could be passed on. These tripods comes in many sizes ... They really are sturdy and have survived 3 severe storms. I do think that the round wooden poles originally were pressure treated wood. We often use that for fences and other outdoor structures. But they are old as the pictures shows. The tallest of them are 20 feet tall and have Dr. Van Fleet, American Pillar growing on them. I like the smaller ones with Madame Alfred Carriere and "Cloth of Gold". I think this way of anchoring the poles is really good since they do not get earth contact and should be able to last about 30 years outside. (Only 8-10 if they had earth contact). The Pole holders have metal rods that go 1-1,5 feet into the concrete. It is not that hard to make the concrete Poleholders: 1)Dig or drill a 3 feet (perhaps even 4 feet for the tall 20 feet tripods) deep hole in the soil 2)Place a heavy cardboard tube (about 8-12 inches in diameter...depending on height and weight of the poles) into the hole. Fill the hole around the tube with soil and make sure the cardboard tube is level. 3) Fill the cardboard tube with concrete to soil level. Place the rod of the pole holder in the concrete and secure it with wooden blocks in the right position until the concrete cures. ( About 3 days to be sure ) Then the 3 poles can be placed. (They are held together at the top by a stainless steel bolt ). To bottom part of the poles are also secured by bolts as shown on the last picture I also wrote "I only wished the gardeners there had trained them better/more vertically then they would have looked better" I meant HORIZONATALLY ...It is past my bedtime I guess. LOL. But that would have made the rose look better. There are thin steel thread vertically between the poles to make it easier to train the pictures. I am going to get some better pictures of that another day. I hope some will like this idea. At least it does not require welding as my iron structures .-) They can be made in many sizes. It only takes poles in different thicknesses and lengths....See MoreMason Bee Straws
Comments (5)The bees need strong paper tubes for good structure, predator protection, and texture...which is generally a heavier material than a drinking straw. They also prefer a specific diameter straw that suits their body size. So if you spring for paper straws that are specific to the type of bees you want, you can go cheap on the "house" part of it and get creative there. If you just throw any old paper tubes in any old container out there, you're not really doing something specific for a certain kind of bee--it's just an experiment in seeing what shows up and takes interest. Could be a bee, could be a pest or a predator....See MoreGrowing Wisteria in Zone 4
Comments (14)I just saw this thread. I'm also in zone 4. I brought two young wisteria vines (in pots) with me when I moved here from the north SF Bay area of CA five winters ago. One is still in its pot, the other is planted in my front yard. When I checked with the local nurseries here, the best we could come up with is "iffy" on the wisteria surviving the winters. They're actually both doing fine. So far. The potted one comes inside as soon as it goes dormant, and spends the winter in my enclosed, but unheated, front porch. I give it 'some' water about once a month, depending on how cold it is and how damp the soil is. In the spring, when the weather warms up, it goes back outside on my patio, which has a roof, but is otherwise open. The one planted in the yard, I will admit, gives me a strong case of "nerves" every spring, waiting for it to...do something. It's always the last plant to show any movement in the buds. The first couple years it was very hesitant and the growth wasn't as luxious as I know it can be. This past summer though, it took off like crazy, sending out new growth every which way. For the first time since planting, I actually had to prune a little. I'm wanting this to grow the same way you mention, as a standard. Winter protection, when it was small enough, was provided by removing the bottom from a cheap plastic garbage can, putting that over the vine, and then filling it with cedar mulch. The second year, the top was higher than the upside down garbage can, so I put a five gallon bucket, upside down, over the top. There was no mulch inside the bucket. I did have some top burnback from the winter temps (which can get -30° here), but the rest of the vine was fine. Last winter, and now, the vine has gotten too tall for the garbage can method, so I went to Home Depot and got a couple 4 ft high, 12 inch diameter, Quick Tubes. These are very heavy cardboard tubes used for pouring concrete pillars. I covered the bottom of one tube, inside and out, with plastic to keep it from getting wet. Then I "bundled up" the branches of the vine to keep them from breaking, and slid the tube over the vine, filling it completely with cedar mulch. Because it tends to be top-heavy, the tube has to be staked so it won't fall over. Then I covered the top with plastic (garbage bag) and duct-taped everything down. Worked last winter, and I expect it'll work again this winter, especially as mild as it's been. The only other problem I've encountered is that the Japanese beetles LOVE to munch on it. I put a trap out each year, and employ the "two-block" method - smash the beetles between two blocks of wood. Doesn't seem to harm the wisteria at all. This summer, I'm hoping to get some Milky Spore and spread it around the yard to combat the beetle problem. Hope this helps....See MoreCardboard Shredding, Shredding Cardboard
Comments (45)Harry, yes I have seen it in my homemade bin and It seems to be more of a stress reaction to an improper balance in the bin. My bokashi is my own saved scraps. After I run this thru my juicer if its on the dry side I add the juice back in so its more of a slurry. Then that mix is saved in a container that will hold 1 to 2 gal. Sometimes I have too much and also use large empty coffee cans with lid. Store this stuff so fruit flies cant get to it . When you do feed it may have a mold covering on top dont worry about that , its fine. Worms will love it. Getting the bedding right in the first place is the key. The relation between bedding, pure food , and worms is important. Bokashi mix is all green/nitrogen with a little shredded paper is most likely not enough. Depending on what you use for your bedding doesnt always have to be the same, whether its peat, coco coir aged compost , shredded paper , cardboard. Im going to say that should be at least 80-85% of your bedding , then add a little bokashi mix in a corner . The bedding should be moist but not wet, then I cover this with several sheets of newprint dampened. Check on the food you added in a day or two and see if worms have moved to the food, if the visible food is gone you can add more in another area of the bin. After adding this food slurry , checking the next day sometimes I will see the bacteria in the food a it seems to moving. This means it is ready for the worms. The bacteria has to be breaking it down before they eat it and that is why it is better , that is, if you want it quicker . This doesnt have to be done this way , some people just chop it up and put it in in this way , just takes longer, hope my rambling has helped....See More- 21 years ago
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