The ideal glazing will transmit light well, yet not transmit thermal infrared, the wavelengths at which the solar energy absorbed in the greenhouse is reemitted. The ideal glazing will also have a high R-value, will be inexpensive, and will last a long time. The most common types of glazing are glass, polycarbonate, and polyethylene films. Glass, the original glazing, is the longest lasting of the glazings (in the absence of large hail), particularly if the glass is tempered. It is expensive relative to other glazings. It transmits light very well, yet it is opaque to thermal IR. Glass does not diffuse light very well and may result in shadowing and plant burn. It is more difficult to work with and in fact tempered glass cannot be cut at all. Single pane glass has an R-value of about 0.8. Polycarbonate (PC) generally comes in twinwall or even triplewall sheets in thicknesses from 4 to 16mm. It is easy to cut. Twinwall PC has an R-value of about 1.4, and triplewall PC has an R-value of 2.5. PC has a high degree of light transmittance and low thermal IR transmittance. Light is diffused with PC, lowering the risk of foliage burn. PC lasts 10-20 years. Polyethylene (PE) films are relatively inexpensive and are the easiest with which to work. Single layer of PE film has an R-value of about 0.8 but and inflated, double layer PE glazing has an R-value of about 1.4. Light is transmitted and diffused well, but plain PE film is not opaque to thermal infrared wavelengths. Therefore radiation energy losses at night can be greater with PE films than with other glazings. PE with infrared additives are available, and these films reduce heat loss by about 20% compared to plain PE films. The lifespan of PE films is generally felt to be about 3-4 years. Other less commonly used glazings include acrylic, fiberglass, and PVC. Information provided by: Stressbaby

Hi Amy, Cabinets are basically 2 parts. 1) Cabinet box or carcass and 2)Face frame and door/drawer fronts. Boxes are typically plywood(best option) or particle board(typically in lower end cabinets). The face frames are always solid wood but the doors can vary 2 ways. If they are stained they will be solid wood. If they are painted it's very common for the entire door to be made from MDF(medium density fiberboard, similar to particle board). MDF won't allow the door to expand and contract with humidity causing cracks which become unsightly. Some manufacturers use solid wood on the frame of a door and MDF for the center panel for the same reason. It won't expand or contract. It's very common for drawer boxes to be solid wood and have soft closing under mount drawer guides even in the basic "off the shelf" cabinets. Same goes for soft closing hinges too. Basically if you really want your cabinets to last just stay away from particle board carcasses and particle board drawer boxes. Hope this helps!

You may be missing something. Positioning one oven on top of another is called a tower arrangement. It will look better -- cleaner and consistent -- if the two ovens have the same colors, trim lines and handles. You don't have to do it this way, but that is an advantage of the Miele designs and is how things are intended to look. For the convection ovens you listed one Obsidian Black and one Stainless Steel. Is your chosen CSO Stainless or Black finish? Both are Pure Line, is that what your CSO is? Also check the handles to be the same on both the CSO and the Convection oven. If you're not sure of the Contour Line and Pure Line differences, other than going into a Miele design center showroom to see in person, look at the pictures on the first 15 or 20 pages here, https://www.mieleusa.com/media/ex/us/Brochures%202016/MasterApplianceBrochure_15-1919_G6000_US_3.9.16_FINAL.pdf. Note the differences in the Contour Line vs. Pure Line, and the colors, SS vs. Black, Brown or white. You listed one each Black and SS for the convection ovens, probaly your chosen CSO is one of these two finishes.

@HB I have the top knobs honey bronze and I don't think it's an exact match, but it looks decent. depends on how close the two items are. Also, be careful to order an exact sample from current lot of knobs/pulls. I don't know if it's COVID, but there are issues with different shades of the honey bronze finish for TopKnobs. The one I ordered recently on MyKnobs came out ok, which comes directly from the manufacturer. I'm pretty sure that Build.com also orders directly from manufacturer. MyKnobs will allow you to order a single pull/knob as "sample" and will charge you, but then will credit your eventual order with them for each sample you purchased. but you can only get one sample per item (but I think that each size of same style counts as a different item, but I would check with them). Otherwise, if anyone else has any suggestions, I'd love to hear what they've found to match kohler's vibrant moderne brushed brass (2MB). I finally received my bath fixtures from kohler in this finish and was somewhat disappointed in the quality. There was some unevenness in the finish and I'm hoping that they just need to be cleaned and wiped of any residual chemicals (which kohler claims is what may be on there), but that doesn't account for the areas which are lighter than the others and lighter than the sample chip. I didn't want a super light yellow color on my fixtures. they're all installed now and the tub filler is very prominent in the room, so very disappointed.