Hi ~ I found it! In the fourth edition of Kitchen Glassware by Gene Florence it is listed on page 30. Keep in mind the book was printed in 1992. Gene Florence wrote: "The McKee water dispenser as shown below has a separate center holder for ice. I guess that idea never caught on, but it seems like a neat idea to me. The cooler sells for between $75.00 -85.00." Now my educated guess, having sold antiques and collectibles for the past 15 years is that the value has multiplied many times over. I would not sell it for less than $300.00, and that may be low. I will let you know if I find a current value. Kim in Pa

I've antiqued a lot of my frames, but I tend to go darker instead of lighter, Jynxed. Either way, the process is basically the same. To get the look you want, I'd try painting the frame with a creamy white acrylic paint . . . or chalk white if you prefer. The kind you can buy at HL or Michaels. When the paint is totally dry, pour a bit of antiquing medium or even a bit of Raw Umber mixed with an acrylic glaze medium (you get that right where you buy the white paint); brush it onto a section of the frame, making sure to get it into every crevice. Wait about 30 seconds and ~ with a small, soft dry rag, start wiping off the antiquing paint, leaving some in the crevices. See how you like that look. You can add more to adjust the color or wipe off more to get the look you want. If you wait too long, it'll be harder to get off, although the antiquing medium is formulated to dry slowly for just that purpose. A damp rag can get off a bit that's too dark. Work in 6-12" long sections, depending on how much detail you have on the frame itself. Some of the larger, more ornately carved frames are best worked in 4-6" sections. Here's one they called a Shabby Chic frame, although I doubt it came from one of their stores! I painted, antiqued and then used a bit of Rub-N-Buff on it to get this finished look. Lynn Before: After.I actually went back and antiqued the gold inner frame after I took this pic. The flash is making it look a brighter gold that it really is.

Yes, a picture of the room would help, and/or info on your kitchen cabinet color, countertop color, backsplash, etc. -- anything else in the room that would influence the wall color decision.

It's certainly not a bad idea. Reinforcements are almost always found in queen and king beds. It depends a lot on how strong your box frame is and how much weight you'll be holding on the bed. I'd feel better with a little more support. Kings always and queens sometimes have "split box springs" that make a center support mandatory. The strip your guy recommends is called a "ledger strip." Generally these are 1"x1" and are screwed every 6-8 inches across its length. Typically 1x2 are used for cross beams and these are screwed down into the ledger strip. I've also seen then dropped into a notch, but this is both more work to build and less secure. Sometimes they are stapled to a set of nylon straps. Don't really think the staples do much but hold the spacing. They are certainly of no structural value. I have seen cross supports every 4" or 4 per bed. I think the choice is yours. As far as a center support to the floor, I usually see one or two of these in kings. I have cobbled together supports like this with a flange, cap and iron pipe nipple from the plumbing department. I've also seen a 2x2 cut to the right length and bolted into its cross beam with a dowel screw or hangar bolt and t-nut. The link below shows hardware specifically for this purpose. The little attachment on the sides is mean to hold a notched out beam that goes left and right. Here is a link that might be useful: Rocker premade bed hardware.