I'm going to push Natural Magic or Citrus Magic again. Usually at paint counters or cleaning supplies of hardware stores. Ace, Lowes, and some paint dealers near me. There's also a newer brand, Clean Air, I've picked up at Lowe's. I lean toward the Natural Magic only because it's $1 cheaper for the same size container. Any of them work well, the stuff is amazing. There's also Gonzo volcano chips (Home Depot). Gonzo works, but the magic absorbers seem to work much faster. I see the post I linked to is gone. I bought a vintage Drexel Heritage bedroom suite, solid cherry, pristine but one center dresser drawer had perfume smell (strong, like some spilled). It carried into other drawers. No way could I use it, all our clothes would smell like that old perfume. So I cleaned with bleach water, no luck. Put a couple Natural Magic containers in the dresser, kept the drawers cracked about 2" (for air flow, the 'magic' absorbers need some air flow). Rotated them around inside different drawers for about 3 weeks, and smell was gone. I use them everywhere, from rentals between tenants, my closets, cars, pet areas, etc. Worth every penny!

Since I last posted, I've narrowed a few things down. One of the rooms that was affected (there were 2 rooms total), has been fixed. The french drain I installed around the perimeter of the front of the house, where water was creeping under the foundation, seems to have fixed the issue in the larger room. There is now no more musty smell in there. However, the other room, which is a "closet" that backs up directly to a bathroom, still has the odor, which has actually gotten worse. The smell is definitely partially sweet, and partially musty. I've cut the drywall all the way around the room to see if there is any signs of water damage, dead animals, etc inside of the walls. Interestingly enough, the inside of the walls that butt up to other rooms, smell fine. The walls that have concrete on the other side, have the odor present (perimeter walls). The only two things I haven't addressed yet are the roof (I'd have to cut the ceiling open because there is no attic access at this point for how low the roof pitches). The other thing would be the foundation (slab). I have fairly expensive laminate flooring and underlayment in that room, which would have to be removed, and the floor would have to be inspected for dampness. However, given the circumstances, it's been narrowed down quite a bit. The room has 4 walls (2 butt up to exterior concrete and 2 others butt up to interior rooms), a standard hollow core wood door, a West-facing window, and a drywall knockdown ceiling. There is only two piece of furniture in the room, which are bookcases. One is MDF (still wrapped in plastic to hold it together before I bolt it in), and the other is pine wood, also wrapped in thin plastic to protect it. I've just put two large shop fans, a big air purifier, an ionizer, and ozone generator all in the room with a big bucket of damprid (although humidity levels in that room are only 49% in south florida, which is fairly average). I've also sprayed half a can of lysol air spray into the room. I'll let you guys know how that works out, and hopefully we can figure it out. and ESMAN - let me know your notes as well. Thanks.

I am touching up whatever needs it. The flowers were a bit worn, so I did a tiny bit on them, too, along with the graining and the stripes. I took it outside to varnish it and saw that I could see the details much better in that light, so will work on it on my picnic table as weather permits. Some people would leave it as found, but I love to polish up and fix up pieces that I get so they look better to me, whether they are lamps or furniture. It's not of great value, but it's just so cute that I think it was a huge bargain at $30. The fun it'll provide me is worth more than that! Round dovetails are from the late 1800's. Here is a bureau on Ruby Lane that shows them, and that piece is from the 1880's. Here is a link that might be useful: Ruby Lane bureau with similar hardware, too

100 year old wood will decompose just as new wood will when moisture is present. with the presence of moisture just from humidity it will grow bacteria, mold and mild dew which will produce toxins, and this is what causes the musty odor. The wood provides ample food for the microorganisms but with limited moisture the population is very low so decomposition is very slow over centuries, but the wood still will eventually rot over time. To eliminate the musty odor you need to maintain the lumber in a low humidity environment, and something which is nearly possible. The alternative is to use a biocide to kill microorganisms and when they sprout from a spore. A copper based product will do the job and will continue for decades. Another option is boric acid, or borax mixed in water or glycol sprayed on the wood which would kill the bugs for about 6 years. The spray needs to penetrate the grains. before they install the sheet rock inspect the moisture barrier (plastic sheeting) and verify all holes are taped with the right tape and all seems are taped. This will create a barrier between you and the smell. The plastic should be on the ceiling and walls with all outlets sealed with tape. Concerning the floor I have no clue what you can do, but it's a good place to spray a copper based product on all exposed wood.