All I can say is, ours matches the backsplash more than the granite.

The problem is, we don't know what the backsplash ultimately will be...right now it will be one of the paints I mentioned, but in a year or two we plan to put in a tile BS of some sort.

So...any other ideas/comments.

BTW...one of the cabinets was damaged. Originally they told me they were going to replace it...now they're talking about bringing in a "furniture medic" to repair if it isn't structural. I'm told the "furniture medic" they use is the same one that does the White House and the Pentagon....

I have asked what if I don't like the repair...no answer there...so I'm waiting to find out, first if it's structural. (I can't take pics right now since the granite people are working in the kitchen right now)

They were also just going to leave a 1/2" gap b/w the cabinets & the wall...but I insisted so now they're trying to find a way to "fix" it.

Have them use a clear caulk that will match both the granite and future backsplash. Also you can always easily remove dried caulk if it becomes a problem with the backsplash. Your cabinets are beautiful, very similar to mine! Good Luck!

Counter granite

They used a clear caulk on mine and told me I could paint it if I wanted to. I have uba tuba which is dark and Bergundy red paint (no backsplash also). The paint was already on when they installed the granite. Maybe they want to use black to cover up your existing paint? I like the clear as it blends well with adjoining cabinets. Recommend you find out how easy the black grout is to paint. I'll try to post a picture of mine, but want to get this much posted ASAP. HTH

I would probably go with the black they suggested. It needs to blend with the counter or wall and since you don't know what the wall will be, well . .

Also, once you put the BS in (I know that may not be for a year or more) it won't matter since you should no longer see it

one other thing - as other have noted clear would be the other good option

Here's my pics - dang can't get it post directly - let's try a link.

Here is a link that might be useful:

Sorry for lack of techsavvy, here is second picture link.

Here is a link that might be useful:

I talked to them again about this and the Manager here says she will be sure they use a latex caulk b/c then it can be painted.

Lots going on here (and not all good)!

Buehl-

Others have made good comments - I'd go with either
clear acryllic or black acryllic...

BUT remember - all of this caulk (whichever color
you finalize on will prolly be covered up when you
put in your back splash.

ALSO - remember what I have said in past posts about most
varieties of AB........
it DOES have calcites that WILL react with acidic substances,
so take care in cleaning up spills of ANY kind.

hope that helps

kevin

Kevin M. Padden
Fabricator, Trainer & Consultant to the Natural Stone Industry
www.azschoolofrock.com
www.naturalstone101.com

Thanks Kevin! I was hoping you or one of the other stone experts would respond!

So...is acrylic better than latex? It may be too late for the window counter, but the cooktop will be done later after the cabinet they damaged is either repaired or replaced.

They're also having trouble w/the seam on the window wall...it's raised on one end and the caulk doesn't quite match. They're sending out someone to hand finish it next week since it needs to be ground down on one side and polished.

They also have to fix the Powder Room counter. They assumed we would have a side splash so they didn't continue the ogee edge to the end. But, I don't have a side splash so they need to fix that edge.

Too bad you aren't in the DC area Kevin!

Granite update:

Well, the granite installers are gone until next week. Here's what was done:

• Counter along the window wall was installed. There was originally a 1/2" gap b/w the wall and counter on the DO side. But, they ground down the granite and it's now a little more than 1/4". The refrigerator side is a little more than an 1/8"

  Their next step next week is to build the wall in slightly to narrow the gap on the DO side even more. (Remember, for a year or two I will have no BS.) They will use an "acrylic latex" caulk along the wall when they're done

• Since the window counter run was too long to fabricate in one piece, they had to put in a smaller piece and we will have a seam. Right now, the seam is very visible and rough to the touch as well as 2 different levels. The edge also shows that the two pieces are different thicknesses too. The edge seam is very obvious to the touch as well...w/one side deeper than the other. [Pictures below]

  Next week they plan to bring out a water grinder/polisher to grind down the seam. I hope they plan on doing something about the color of the seam as well!

• The cooktop wall is also too long for one piece, so I will have a seam over one of the 6" filler pullouts.

  However, while maneuvering the right piece into place (they brought it in turned the wrong way), they damaged a cabinet. [Pictures below] At first they were just going to replace the cabinet but now they want to try to repair it first.

  Originally, they told me they were going to bring in Furniture Medic, the people who repair furniture at the White House. However, two of them said they didn't come out this far and the other said he doesn't do kitchen cabinets!

  They called around and everyone they talked to either would not come out this far or wouldn't be able to come out for a couple of weeks. So now, they're going to have one of the contractor's people try to fix it Monday...I'm not confident this person can do it, but I will give him the chance.

  They have promised me that if I do not like the repair job they will order another cabinet. I'm also not convinced it's not a structural issue...there are two cracks in the face frame piece that holds the side of the cabinet.

  Because of this problem, they did not install the counter on the cooktop wall. They placed the left (larger) piece on the countertop...the opposite end from the damaged cabinet and they put the piece that will go over the damaged cabinet in our DR for now.

• Another issue I have w/the piece currently on the DR floor is that we will 5" b/w the edge of the countertop and the edge of the sink. Others here have said 5" is too much and that it causes back problems. They insist that w/a corner sink you have to have the 5" b/c the don't want to risk having the sink run into the cabinet. Our contractor measured the sink and the cabinets and said they really only needed to allow for 4" They fabricators had the template, I don't...

Buehl:

You are showing a LOT of class the way that you are handling
these issues. This reminds me of some of what Bayareafrancy
went through when there were some issues on the installation
of her Soapstone tops a while back... KUDOS to both of you!

As far as what's going on with your application - again,
you are being WAY COOL to give your Fabricator the benefit
of the doubt and an honest oportunity to redeem himself.
I would hope for the same mercy if I were in his shoes,
so God bless you for having the compassion and understanding in the face
of what is probably helping to cost you sleep and raising your anxiety level....

It's really easy for me to sit out here in Arizona and "pass judgement"
on a guy's work that isn't finished, and who clearly is having
some trouble on a bit more complex application than an
average one, so I won't..... on this forum.. ;)

E-mail me or call me, and I will visit with
you and offer some ideas - for free. Go to my website
for contact info....

Hang in there amd I hope everything turns out good for you...

kevin

Kevin M. Padden
Fabricator, Trainer & Consultant to the Natural Stone Industry
www.azschoolofrock.com

I think its really hard to say about the cabinet without being there. I suspect it can be made to *look* right without too much difficulty. Whether the damage has a structural impact is the part that is hard to judge. Perhaps some epoxy injected into the broken areas would strengthen it enough.

Re the sink setback: I have an Orca in a corner. Its about the same shape as your sink. I wanted it as close to the front as possible. After discussing it at length with the templater, the best I could get him to agree to was 4 1/2". My contractor guys also thought that was about the smallest that would work. So far it hasn't been troublesome for me.

Just wanted to pipe in and say that my seam was a two step process. They worked on it and it looked about like yours, then they took a little break and came back and finished it very nicely. I don't know what the reason for waiting was but they purposely let it sit for awhile. So maybe they are planning to do more finishing work on yours tomorrow. To match the color exactly the nice LADY who worked on mine had a zillion different color 'sharpies' and she picked the one that matched my granite the best (it was a close match without the sharpie and that was just the finishing touch). My seam went from being very rough and obvious to nice and smooth.

Good luck with the cracking issues. Hope it's resolved to your satisfaction!!

-Amy

Update: See my "Yahoo!!! We Have Cabinets!" thread...

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: Yahoo!!! We Have Cabinets!!!!!!!!!!! :-D