Undermount sink support, plywood or metal clips/rods?
paintpanther
14 years ago
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bluekitobsessed
14 years agopaintpanther
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Mold resistant silicone for under-mount sink?
Comments (13)babyboomer1001: 100% silicone is perfect caulk between a sink flange and the bottom of stone. Polyseamseal and other Latex caulks are not; they do not have the adhesive stickiness or flexibility of silicone. It's best if you can pull your sink, clean the sink flange and stone bottom, recaulk with silicone and reinstall the sink. If this isn't reasonably possible, use a stiff plastic shim or plastic laminate to gouge the caulk out, clean the gap with acetone, and recaulk with silicone. Ignoring a leaking sink flange can have catastrophic consequences if your top has been "rodded" or reinforced with steel. If the fabricator used the wrong rod and/or the wrong bedding the rod can rust and blow up your top. I've fixed about 8 of these so far and it runs around $1,000.00-$1,600.00....See MoreInstalling Undermount Sink without Using Brackets???
Comments (24)Sorry Davridro - I couldn't see this thread there for a while, and I have been busy with other stuff here in AZ.... not diss'in ya Bro - OK?? As far as this whole debate goes - here's the dealeo as far as I'm concerned: The smaller you make the stone around a sink opening (ie; 1" vs 2") the greater you increase the opportunity for fracture - Davidro - you are correct in your argument about the application, etc. The important thing to remember (and I think that you have pointed this out very well) is that the "plane" or "application" of the stone - has to be supported and remain flat without movement or "flex".... Plywood subtops do this very well, but adding steel re-enforcement to the recipe - IMHO - does it even better. I had a friend that actually laminated 3/4" x 3/4" box steel tube to the underside of a 2CM laminated front edge assemblies - so that the steel was not visible because of the front edge lower half covered it - he'd set the assembly directly on top of the cabinets. Sadly, he had to close his doors last year (it's NOT been fun here in PHX), so I do not know what his long term success rate will be - he started doing this process in 2006.... so we'll see. The other "ingredients" that make or break this whole scenario are: 1. stone thinkness - 2CM or 3CM 2. type of sink - stainless, cast iron, plastic, etc 3. size of sink 4. size of cabinet base sink is set in 5. depth of countertops 6. set back of UMS opening from front edge of stone 7. amount of support for sink and countertop from cabinet assembly 8. type of subtop material used (if any) 9. type of rodding used (if any) method of sink attachment and support (type of clips or support assembly used - if any) movement of the home, cabinets and/or countertop assembly (if any) amount of downward pressure or force applied to the sink assembly (gravity, content of sink and weight of garbage disposal and associated plumbing attached to the sink- all pulling down on the sink and the stone) potential for water penetration into the subtop Bottom line here - is that Davidro has some good comments on this thread, and there are multiple scenarios that will play out in determining whether or not an UMS application will hold up - long term hth kevin...See MoreHow is your undermount sink supported?
Comments (5)we've done three rohl farm sinks that all needed this treatment. how much bracing is necessary will depend on the construction of your cabinets. our first two remodels had MDF or particle-board boxes, so they needed to build a more elaborate box to support the sink. they essentially built a cube of 2x4's around the outer perimeter of the cabinet. in those, there wouldn't have been room for a garbage can after we put our disposal and a couple other things. in our last remodel, our cabinets are 1 1/2" thick plywood boxes, so much less bracing was needed. they just ran 2x4's across the depth of the sink base, and then one across the middle under the sink. much more room under there, although i still wouldn't do a garbage down there, but that's just because i prefer a pull-out unit for garbage/recycling. also, keep in mind that with the farm sink, the sink base is a much smaller cabinet to begin with....so this response may not really help you all that much........See MoreQuartz undermount kitchen sink falling (epoxy failing)
Comments (8)"...is epoxy not suitable in all cases ? " Epoxy is not suitable for mounting sinks. Some fabricators are using Black Mamba by itself, apparently without callbacks. "What about a smaller bathroom sink ? Or do you think a mechanical mechanism is always needed ?" I always use a mechanical system, usually a Hercules Universal Sink Harness or a Sink Strap or two. While silicone applied between the stone bottom and the sink flange has adhesive properties, its function is that of a gasket primarily. Multi tool or Rotozip all the OSB near your sink away please and use a strap system with silicone....See Moreweedmeister
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