A silver chalk pencil ought to mark it, but you have lots of other choices, too. Just don't set any marks in with an iron, and afterward rinse well in cold water without soap first. I happened to mark with a Fons and Porter chalk pencil, and I covered the marks with pieces of Glad Press-N-Seal until I was ready to quilt that section. Some of the blue water erasable markers have bad stories around about how they show back up over time as brown marks that won't come out, but other people say it's because the quilt wasn't rinsed thoroughly, only dampened so that the pigment sank down into the batting. I bet you won't have that problem here with a child quilt. And several ladies with good experience on here use the Crayola super washable children markers--like the ones you buy at Kroger. Yellow dyes tend to stick, so to be safest avoid yellow although I never heard anything bad per se about the yellow Crayola. Just make sure you get the super washable ones, they say. It's up to you how many arcs to put in your fan--4 to 8 seems to be common, and spaced an inch or 1 1/2 inches apart. The story is that this pattern was easy for women to mark as they went, and the marks shouldn't get bigger that what you could make from pivoting from your elbow. :) I don't know if that's really true, but it's a sweet little story. You basically are laying down quarter circle arcs, so you might try poking around in your tupperware tops to see what kind of free and easy circle templates you can come up with. The kitchen has LOTS of circles. For that matter, you can make your own string template by tying little circles knotted in a sturdy string at your chosen distances. Then you anchor the end with a pin or something, and put your pencil in each circle in turn, hold it straight up and down, so that you're using it like a compass. Whatever you decide, here's a nice little picture of somebody getting fancy with double lines. ;) Here is a link that might be useful:

It's half a year since you posted, and I hope you have found help. If you haven't there's a guy called Bob Marshall that makes them. I don't have contact info, but you should be able to find him with a bit of search on the web. There are other sources too; these old industrial Singers are stil in use all over the world even if there is just a fraction of what there once was. Edit; If your machine takes a V-belt type, you can measure it's circumferance (or measure on the machine with a string). It doesnt' have to be on the millimeter but as long as it fits on the groove you can use any general v-belt made for cars and other machines. They list them with the outer side cirumferance, and if you use a string you will get the inner side, which means add a centimeter or so. The macine setup usually have a good measure of adjusting the position of the motor axle (entire motor usually). This post was edited by taoseeker on Fri, Jan 30, 15 at 13:54

I know this is a very old thread, but I just became a member when I googled and found this. I have a Singer 241-3 that I've used everyday for many years. I'm wondering if you ever found a buyer for yours. A little background. I use to own a bridal shop. This machine was used there for over 29 years, on an everyday basis. I closed last year and now have moved it into my X computer room, now called my sewing room :D I have another straight stitch machine I have to check the number on and a very old blind stitch machine. I would love to get rid of both of them. I've advertised on craigs lists for months with no calls. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I look forward to being a member here. JoAnn

childstar, I have some questions. i have several machines, including 2 Singer Touch & Sews. One is a 600E, which i think was made in 1966. The other is a 626, made in 1967. The 626 has nylon gears that fell apart in my hand when i undid the bottom to check. But the 600E has metal gears. Is it worth fixing the 626? And, if i see metal gears in the 600E, does that mean it is a good machine worth keeping?