Sure could use some advice -- just purchased a *rustic* white oak dining table and the manufacturer recommends using a "natural beeswax regularly to maintain finish". The wood looks raw to me now, meaning there's no apparent beeswax on it yet. I'm totally clueless!! What in the world do I use on this? Please recommend a good product (there are so many out there to choose from). Thanks so much in advance! Sweetpea

Since everyone is chiming in with their favorite wood sealers, I'd like to plug Skidmore's Beeswax wood products -- the wood sealers and the conditioning cream are great. I know the maker, Vince Skidmore, who is a woodworker himself, and he hand-produces all of the products from beeswax and natural resins and pine-based turpentine. The sealer is tough enough for exterior treatments, and the conditioning cream doubles as both a wood and leather restorer. (He sells the same product under leather and wood product labels.) Knew him back when he was producing in Wyoming, now he's moved the business to Port Townsend, WA. We'll be refinishing recycled bowling lane into kitchen counters, and I'm looking forward to using his stuff on raw wood from scratch for the first time (previously we've just used Skidmore's when restoring old, finished wood surfaces). FYI, I don't work for Vince, just love his products! Good luck, and have fun! Here is a link that might be useful: Skidmore's Fine Beeswax Products

I have found that mineral oil and beeswax works very well....and no need to buy any counter-top/cutting board oil, just go to the local pharmacy and buy a jug of mineral oil...will only be a few $$ After a few tests I have found that I like a 3:2 ratio the best...3 ounces of oil: 2 ounces of beeswax I use a cheese grater to shave off the beeswax, then put the shaving in a double boiler with the mineral oil...must keep warm to keep it from getting hard. Once it is all mixed together and melted you can apply with a cotton cloth, on a raw piece I would do several light coats If you make extra you can store in a mason type jar and just heat up again when you need it....can also be used to recoat any wooden utensils, bowls etc

I use Clapham's. I got tired of constantly touching up the mineral oil in the first month. Plus it always felt oily. With the Clapham's, in the first two to four months, you may need to re-apply every three to four weeks. After that it becomes very easy. Just save the rag in a zip lock bag. I used up a whole container already, so I just use the old container to store my rag. Then when you need a touch up, just pull out the rag. There's no need for mineral oil at all. I buff it with my bare hands. Last week, my wife left my silicone baking mats on the counter. When I took them off the counter, they left a rectangle where it sucked up the finish. So I pulled out the saved rag. It was already saturated, so I didn't need to dip into the wax. I just rubbed using a circular motion until the patina was restored. Then I gave it a final buff with my bare hands and it was like the patina was always there. Rubber small appliance feet will also remove the patina. I use Lysol kitchen spray as well as those kitchen wipes and they do not affect the patina. Dish soap, on the other hand, will do a number on the patina. The area around the base of the faucet and soap dispenser needs more frequent attention. I also use the Clapham's on my wood cutting board and chopping block, so it also has other uses around the house.