i dont think there are two rows i think they are multi leader arbs.. that splayed in some storm .. and i think they are unsalvagable ... whats behind...?? if they are arbs.. they are conifers.. and they are trees... and commonly called shrubs.. but they really arent .. so that was lesson one .. and the reason i mention it.. is that 3 year rejuvenation pruning of shrubs.. will NOT work on these ... and neither will tree pruning rules ... plan on getting rid of them ... but in the mean time.. keep in mind.. you dont have to do it all at once.. if they are providing some sight block ... topping of trees.. is usually not favored ... google that term ... soooo ... can you be a bit more precise on what you are trying to do.. other than just topping them ... and surely you can do that if you wnat.. they are yours ... but what i am getting at ... is that really going to solve your issue??? and i doubt it.. in the long run ... ken ps: we need much closer pix and w/o sun glare.. to get an id.. and you might have to get that in the conifer forum.. once we know what they are.. some issues will clarify...

To be perfectly honest, they are not "overgrown" at all, although they may well be larger than you want :-) Photinias get to be large shrubs, even small trees - 20' is not out of reason. And despites Ken's suggestion, broadleaf evergreen shrubs are seldom included in what is typically called 'rejuvenation pruning' - that is usually limited to deciduous shrubs and really to caning deciduous shrubs. Broadleaf evergreen shrubs - like those typically used for hedging purposes: laurel, photinia, boxwood, holly, etc. - are often sheared, sometimes several times a season, to maintain a tidy and size-limiting appearance. And these types of shrubs can usually tolerate a pretty hard cut. Mid-summer is maybe not the ideal time, but you should be able to reduce by a third. Cutting back further may produce more stress than necessary at this time of year. You can cut back again in early spring as the plant pushes new growth. FWIW, several smaller pruning jobs during the course of the season are usually more beneficial than an infrequent major one.

Chester: Part of what you say is confusing. You have certainly not, I hope, cut back three or four "years" of growth--you mean you cut back to 3 or 4 side shoots. Right? These weevils seldom eat down past the prior yearÂs growth. Where Norway spruce are reasonably fast growing I would say they destroy about 2/3rds of the prior yearÂs growth, and after they stop eating, the best side shoot usually grows beyond the top limit of that prior yearÂs growth. You may not find any grubs because they may have exited. After they reach a certain growth stage they leave the shoot and drop to the ground where they live until they mature and fly or crawl up another (or the same ) tree the next spring to continue their devilish work. If you don't find grubs at the lowest level where the shoot looks like its inner bark has been eaten out, they have all left, and there is no point in doing any more trimming--you can just leave the damaged top with its dead shoots, and after the next year's growth, that will not really be noticeable. Also, these weevils like really strong fat leaders, so after one top is weeviled, they usually donÂt come back to infect the same tree two years in a row. Sometimes they do, but not usually. As for the relatively wide trees: that could have several causes, including intentional pruning back, possibly for Christmas tree production, possibly for height control, possibly to cut out disfigured tops from weevil damage. I donÂt know. Also, there is considerable genetic variation in NS, and what you see could also be partly the result of that. In any case, how wide a tree is now will not ultimately affect its shape as it grows and matures. It will revert to its basic genetic "programming" in combination with the effects of its current and future growing conditions. --Spruce

You might want to look at Steve's Blinds. I learned of the website long ago here on GW and ordered several TDBU cellular shades. Steve's carries several manufacturers' products but we purchased "Steve's own" brand. I believe they are made by a subsidiary of Hunter Douglas but this may be incorrect. We already have several similar blinds in the Hunter Douglas brand and have found the Steve's product to be comparable in quality. Would definitely order from the company again. I am linking the results of a quick search on the website using made-up dimensions and specifying "Steve's own" brand. Please note that there are many other options available on the website, and you will need to carefully enter the particulars for your windows instead of relying on the numbers I used. There is an up-charge for the TDBU feature as well. The website is kind of junky and confusing but you can call and get some customer service assistance. Here is a link that might be useful: Steve's Blinds