Following some suggestions I found on GW and a scrapbook forum that a google search turned up, I tested a number of glues. Rubber Cement was one of the first things I tried. Though waterproof, it failed the strength test. With a heavy item dangling from the tab, it pulled off. I tried Silicone: waterproof, but so messy to apply. I believe that Mod Podge is much like acrylic medium, so that would be a good choice. A lot of people mentioned âÂÂPerfect Paperâ adhesive. That sounded very good, but I couldnâÂÂt get it without ordering online, and couldnâÂÂt wait. So testing that will have to wait. I tested 3 glues as follows: Acrylic Matte Medium. Tombow Multi Liquid Glue, green cap. Craft Bond permanent Fabric Glue ⦠by gluing the tabs on as I normally do. Then the next day I sprayed all of them with water, several times, and then tried pulling on the tabs when the thick paper had absorbed some water. All had a drying time of at least 16 hours but not a full day. I was intentionally sloppy, to see if some were more forgiving than others. Best adhesion with no softening: Matte Medium. Second best: Tombow Multi Liquid Glue, green cap. Third best: Craft Bond permanent Fabric Glue Acrylic Matte Medium Pros: best adhesion. Being matte, any ooze hardly showed. Cons: had to apply with brush. Would be easier if I found a squeeze bottle to transfer it into. Slow tack: had to press and hold it in place till it âÂÂcaughtâÂÂ. Tombow Multi Liquid Glue, green cap. Pros: fine tip made it very easy to apply. Fast tack: applied, stuck it down, it gripped. Cons: it DID re-hydrate slightly: it started to look milky again. I was able to pull up the tab slightly but when it dried again it went back to having a firm hold. Dried glue stays tacky to the touch a long time. Dried glue is shiny, so ooze is noticeable. Craft Bond permanent Fabric Glue Pros: Easy to apply with fine (ish) tip, not as easy as Tombow. Okay tack, did not have to hold it down much before it gripped. Cons: it DID re-hydrate slightly: it started to look milky again and pull away, more than Tombow. Dried glue is shiny, so ooze is noticeable. So for now, IâÂÂll use the Tombow, as it was so easy to use and results were good: until I get a squeeze bottle for the matte medium.

"Spic 'n Span" is TSP, or at least it used to be. The thing is that a lot of localities (states?) have outlawed phosphate detergents, since they are very polluting in the water. I know that in New York I can't get real TSP because of that, and hunting around for it (unless I'm willing to drive to other states) isn't going to help. Googling around I find this from the University of Colorado: "In the end, local needs for immediate action to curtail eutrophication coupled with scientific, judicial, and popular support resulted in the patchwork of legislation the Industry had feared. By 1985, jurisdictions which had enacted phosphate bans included New York, Michigan, Indiana, Vermont, Minnesota, Dade County, Florida, Akron, Ohio, and Chicago Illinois (footnote 257 in Fleming et al. 1986). Typical are state statutes which limit phosphate content for certain types of detergents and in certain areas. For example in Pennsylvania, the Water and Sewage Phosphate Detergent Act of 1989 and amended in 1992 (PA ST 35 P.S. §§ 722.1 - 722.3) affects "all counties partially or wholly within the Susquehanna River Watershed or in the Lake Erie Watershed." This Act prohibits the manufacture, sale or distribution of any cleaning agents containing any phosphate, except contained incidentally during manufacture. But excluded from this ban are cleaning agents used in dairy, beverage and food processing equipment, in hospitals and health care facilities, in agricultural production, by industries for metal cleaning, in biological and chemical research facilities, and those used in the household for cleaning windows, sinks, counters, stoves, tubs and other food preparation surfaces and plumbing fixtures. Dishwashing detergents are allowed to be up to 8.7% phosphorus by weight." I guess you can still find phosphates if you look, if you're not in the states mentioned. Look at dishwashing detergents. But if you use detergents for automatic dishwashers, wear gloves! That stuff is extremely alkaline and will burn you in high enough concentrations.

I think you are misunderstanding the purpose of Gardz. It is not meant to 'fill' anything. In fact, it is a very loose bodied product...almost has the consistency of water. What the Gardz does is keep the paste from screwing up your latex topcoats. If you painted over paste, the paste will eventually cause the paint to crackle away. The Gardz will keep that paste locked down so it cannot affect your topcoats. In your case, the best solution is sanding followed by skimcoat where necessary. Steaming will do nothing because the paste is already painted over I would use an orbital sander and yes it will be dusty and messy but it's fast. You could hand sand but this method will take forever. You could also do no sanding and the skimcoat over the rough surface but I think buzzing it down with an orbital is your best route.

I actually had it soak in a bucket of water for 24 hours and the sample came out perfect, no warping or buckling of any kind. Plus it’s really holds up to scratches, even with a safety pin. And yet for some reason I’m still nervous because of all the bad rep Pergo has gotten n the past. Someone help me decide what to do. Another question is it true that it is easier to repair a damaged plank on a glue down installation over an interlocking one?