I found this on https://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/113602 Removing Linoleum Adhesive From FloorsProcedure code:965001SSource:Ohj - Shirley Maxwell & James C. Massey, 9/30/92Division:FinishesSection:Resilient FlooringLast Modified:08/02/2016 REMOVING LINOLEUM ADHESIVE FROM FLOORS PART 1---GENERAL 1.01 SUMMARY This procedure includes guidance on removing the mastic adhesive left behind when linoleum flooring has been removed. Linoleum flooring was very popular from 1863 to 1974. It was used historically as an original floor treatment in some GSA buildings. Linoleum's chief ingredient was linseed oil, pressed from flax seed, which became a tough, elastic material when exposed to air. The process essentially consisted of mixing linseed oil and gum with ground cork or wood flour, and pressing it onto burlap or canvas. It was then glued down to concrete or wood floors using a mastic cement. See "General Project Guidelines" for general project guidelines to be used along with this procedureThese guidelines cover the following sections: Historic Structures Precautions Submittals Quality Assurance Delivery, Storage and Handling Project/Site Conditions Sequencing and Scheduling General Protection (Surface and Surrounding) These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing this procedure and should be followed along with recommendations from the Regional Historic Preservation Officer (RHPO). PART 2---PRODUCTS 2.01 MATERIALS Clean, potable water Vinegar Citrus degreasing solvent such as "Limo Sol", or approved equal. Dry ice Chemical solvent such as isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, xylol, lacquer thinner, or paint stripper. 2.02 EQUIPMENT Heat lamp or hot-air gun Putty knife or scraper PART 3---EXECUTION 3.01 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION NOTE: A waterproof glue is usually applied at the edges and seams of the linoleum; the center of the felt layers is usually attached with a water soluble paste. Soak the mastic area in hot water for 20-60 minutes or until soft.\ If this is not effective, try adding vinegar or high-strength citrus degreasing solvent to the water and then soak for 20-60 minutes until soft. If mastic still will not soften, try applying heat to the surface using a lamp or hot-air gun. -OR- Try freezing the mastic with dry ice to break the bond with the substrate. If no other methods are effective in softening the mastic, test a chemical solvent on the area. NOTE: Be sure to test in an inconspicuous area to determine appropriate chemicals and strengths before proceeding with cleaning. Scrape away the softened mastic using a putty knife or garden edger. END OF SECTION interesting................

We recently had a green bloom issue. It was only the second time in our 12 years in business. The first time was because of accelerator on a white granite. Since then, we've avoided using accelerator on white granites. This time, the granite came with a resin band around the edges of the slab. The band was green, but we didn't think anything about it. The granite itself looked fine. The variety is Ibiza. During the fabrication process, a small green bloom developed on the edge of the peninsula. I discovered this thread and tried the Easy Off, without torching it. Worked like a charm with a single application. Ironically, about two weeks later, an inexperienced employee used accelerator on a Delicatus edge and produced a small green bloom. Apparently, he missed the memo. Again, the Easy Off did the job with a single application. As for iron oxides (orange rust) appearing on slabs, Naval Jelly, which is a rust remover, might work. We've used it on granite that had something steel against it that had left rust that had penetrated the surface. It's worked every time. We haven't had the issue of rust spontaneously appearing on a granite, but Naval Jelly might work.

I'm new to this site. I am a stained glass artist but am now going to do my first mosaic. I have an old wooden cabinet that has two glass doors. I will be cutting out the main 'story' pieces from textured semi-transparent glasses and plan to adhere all of this to the existing glass on the cabinet doors then do the mosaic work around it. I plan to incorporate some nice flat stones I've collected from various places I have vacationed at into the art piece. I have removed the doors so that I am working on the horizontal, so there is no problem with waiting for the adhesive to set. From what I am reading, It sounds like "weldbond" may be a good choice. I would like it to dry clear. I plan to use black grout in the project. There are lights inside of the cabinet that will illuminate the project when finished. I am hoping I am on the right track. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!

These are my pics of my countertops placed Friday June 22, 2018. I cried looking at these seams. It looks so cheap. Fabricator explains that's the way it comes. I explained that I shouldn't be able to see the seams so clearly. It looks so unprofessional. They ended up taking them back to their warehouse. In hopes they say if it is quality control will try and fix it just to make it look better. Otherwise I will have to pay an additional fee for them to come out again to install. I just don't know what to do and if still looks the same. This is the first time I've replaced my counters in 24 years. I don't and can't live with it. looking at this for another 24 years. It looks so cheap and it really was not it's a lot of money to me. I hope fingers crossed that they will fix this problem. They never told me that there would be such seams. I thought the edges were done by a machine and it would be all one piece. I have read up on this and now understand there are seams. But now I do know that they should not look like this. If they are good fabricator you shouldn't be able to see them so clearly. I will find out next week what happens.