We've had the bamboo roman shades up for almost five years. A home was just built on the lot next to us so I felt that my teenage soon needed something more private. I cut a piece of drapery liner to fit the back of the shade and attached it at the top by hand sewing to the brown thread on the back of the blind that holds the slats together. I untied the cord from the rings, pulled the cord out (of just the rings) cut a small slit to fit the liner over the rings and then threaded the cord back through. I then attached the liner at the bottom of the blind by again hand sewing it to the thread that holds the slats. When raising or lowering the blinds you cannot tell they weren't made with the liner in place, meaning the liner and roman shade fold together. Like nanabella, I feel I lost the look of the woven blinds when the liner was added but his room is darker and more private now.

It's so good to hear that translucent header tapes are sturdy ShadyLady. Thank you. The functional drapes in my living room have a traditional pinch pleat header tape and have held up fine after 3+ years of use. Sounds like we are looking at similar window treatments Laurie... My guest bedroom's window has existing shades (pulled down halfway in the photo below), but since it's quite large (100" W x 108" H), I decided to add black out draperies to help manage the light, add texture to the room, and give myself a sewing project (ha!). So yes, they will be functional. Opening and closing with a baton hung inside the on the center edges of the 2 panels. Also, I added 30% additional width to my rod length to allow room for the stack back as I didn't want the opened curtains to block any light. But I read thinner fabrics and/or curtains without blackout lining need as little as 20% additional rod length for stackback. I linked below to an online tutorial I found loaded with photos that might offer additional help since she goes into great detail. My Fabric: medium weight Robert Allen Bella Porte fabric in midnight aka blue. http://www.robertallendesign.com/trade/fabric_detail.aspx?product=207642 Lining: Hanes OutBlack lining. This lining has been described as having a soft hand and being easy to work with (compared to other blackout linings). http://www.hanesindustries.com/blackouts.htm I wish my shipment would hurry, all this sewing talk has me excited to start! =) Here is a link that might be useful: Blog Tutorial: Sewing Pinch Pleat Lined Curtains

shadylady2u - Thank you for helping me out! I will make sure to use a press cloth if any ironing is necessary. I think I've seen the thick "Bump" blanket type of interlining you described in my local JoAnn Fabric store. Is that used more for living room drapery or for other applications? I assume since it's an interlining, then another piece of "regular" fabric lining needs to be sewn on the back so you end up with three layers of fabric for the drape. I appreciate the link you posted for the blackout lining you prefer. After viewing that link, I went to Hanes' site and saw that it's also offered in ivory (which I am glad about). I ordered a sample and am curious to feel it and compare it to the Roc Lon Budget. I noticed the Hanes lining you linked to is 100%cotton and the Roc Lon Budget is a cotton/poly blend. The small window drape I made and lined with RocLon Budget is for a child's bedroom (see pic below). This current Toile drape I will attempt is also for a child's bedroom. Keeping outside noises to a minimum and keeping the room dark in the day is very helpful during mid day nap times : ) After this bedroom toile drape is complete, I will move on to another bedroom which needs a new drape. If I like the feel of the Hanes blackout lining, then I'll give it a go. It's fun to learn about and try new things. Thanks again! Laurie Back side of small BR window drape using RocLon Budget Blackout lining.

I am not a professional but will give you some advice based on my experiences. I made a pinch pleated drape for my large sliding glass door several years ago. We have a wood overhang outside which blocks some of the afternoon sun. I did not line the drape but I did use buckram in the header. The fabric was medium weight home decor cotton...not super thick. After sewing the header, there was a lot of stiffness & thickness in the header for the pleats. If I was to have also included blackout lining in that header, it would have been too heavy & thick for me to work with. It may be a good idea to make a separate blackout lining in your case. I would make the lining about an inch less (than the finished drape) in width as well as length. I have sewn a small window panel that included blackout lining sewn in to it. I did not do pinch pleats for this panel. I used rings & clips instead. The blackout lining was inserted into the header before sewing. I used a double fold of the fabric at the header but did not fold the blackout. The blackout goes all the way up into the top of the header. Same idea for the side hems...the fabric is double folded but the blackout is not. The blackout did not need to be sewn at the bottom...it's not sewn in to the hem. Hope this helps a little. Back side of small drape with blackout (rings & clips) Bottom hem and sides