lisa9774,

Let me agree 110% with CircusPeanut I just finished doing this very same thing. Not for the reasons you want to do it but I decided if we are replacing 22+ feet of drywall on one side of a galley kitchen, I might as well repair the other side too.

I popped off a few tiles to get a look at what they were adhered to.
Then using a manual drywall saw I cut my first area so I could see inside to check for wires/plumbing pipe, etc.

I then scored the top (up against the wall cabs) and then the bottom (against the counter top) with a brand new blade in a heavy-duty utility knife.
I changed the blade often.
Once those areas were scored it was rather easy to get the drywall saw in there and cut the drywall that didn't seperate with the utility knife scoring it.

Replacing the drywall was easier than removing the old stuff, honest!

Measure the area. I cut my drywall on the kitchen floor cement foundation, using a utility knife and a straight edge to score it really well. It should snap right at the score line and then you can cut through the last layer, the paper backing.

Once you put the drywall up for size, double-measure for any outlets, openings, etc. Put the drywall back down and cut out those areas.

Put in your drywall screws making sure to counter-sink them a bit so they don't poke out over the drywall mud.

CircusPeanut was right on! I am pushing 60, heavy, with a couple disabiities that make it a bit difficult to stand or bend for too long and yet, I got that drywall up myself.
You Can DO this and save the $$$ for something else!

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! You're really building my confidence. I have done a lot of DIY work around my house, so I'm beginning to believe that I could actually accomplish this. I have one more question...my grout lines reach from the very bottom of my cabinets to the top of my countertops. Will it be difficult to saw the drywall when I will also have to get through a layer of grout?

lisa-
We just spent the last 2 weekends doing this very thing. I am waiting to grout to post some photos!!

If the paper is coming off with the tile, and you have raw drywall, your tile setting material will not adhere to it, so you would need to replace the drywall. We got about 50% of our tile off with the drywall intact and replaced the remaining damaged drywall.

The most difficult part are the cutouts for the outlets, etc., but more of a PITA.

We slapped up the tile, and should be set to grout in another day.

We had horrible matte gray floor tile on the backsplash and I have been aching to get it down, we finally got to it on the list of house work. I used subway and some slate mosaic. Hope to have pics in a few days.

Lisa -- Rotozip and Dremel both make grout cutting bits that will cut right through that stuff. On the other hand, depending on the age and condition of the grout, it might actually be possible to just saw your way through with a good sharp sawblade. Only one way to find out ... heh heh.

Technically you're supposed to use caulk in the same color as the grout everywhere that two different surfaces meet, like where the tile top hits the cabinet bottoms, or where the tile meets the countertop. That allows for expansion & contraction so that your tile & grout doesn't crack. And it's MUCH easier to cut through than grout. Now you know, so next time you do this it will be a bit easier! ;-)

Do protect your counters with some heavy cardboard & plastic off your cupboards etc -- it can make a lot of dust (esp if you use an electric tool) and you'll want to avoid getting it inside your drawers.

(thanks Amity! I chose my screen name in a hurry; sometimes I wonder if I lack a little gravitas with it ...)

Add me to the list of those who have recently done this. My job was a bit harder since the tile job was grouted top and bottom. In some cases the tile sat right down on the countertop and I could not even get a piece of paper in ther much less a blade.

If you are close to a harbor frieght you can pick up a multi tool with attachments for $45. The blade cuts through dry wall like butter. The multi tool allows you to get the blade flat on the counter top and cut right through. If you are saving your countertop they you need to protect them. Once you cut top and bottom and the sides you can remove the tile with a hammer or hammer-drill set on 'hammer' and hit the grout joints. it is very dusty so get a concrete dust bag fro your shop-vac and run it as close to the cutting tool as possible. You want to CUT the drywall as much as possible vice breaking it away. If you break it it could weaken the dry wall in places you want to keep.

Definitely do not cut too deep. I was surprised by my hot and cold water lines in places I did not expect. My hot water line was actually bent around a light switch.

Putting up replacement dry wall is easy. I also took the opportunity while the backsplash was gone to reposition the outlets and add undercabinet lights.

I'm patching the joints and screws and painting with primer because it may stay this way for awhile before we re-tile.

There are some pics in my album {{!gwi}}GW Album

Thanks for your continued input into my dilemma.

Circuspeanut: I had no idea about the caulking. Oh how I wish I had known that!! My biggest fear in beginning this demolition project is trying to get through that grout without damaging my granite countertop! You can be sure that I will do it the RIGHT way the second time around!

You are all so wonderful to take the time to give me such great instructions and advice! I'll admit I am very nervous to begin cutting, especially with the thought of hitting a pipe (wouldn't DH LOVE that!!), but texaskitchentoo's pictures really helped to give me an idea about how it should look - thank you!!

I've said it before and I'll say it again...this site is wonderful. You have no idea how much I appreciate your helpfulness and insight! I'm still not sure that I'm brave enough to start this on my own, but it definitely gives me something to think about!