Hello Christine, >> Pretty easy fix for the tape: * Get a small tub of vinyl spackling compound or "joint cement". * Gently lift the tape, and put just a tiny bit of "mud" onto the wall with a narrow putty knife. A thin "see-thru" layer is fine. * Next, use a wider (4"-6") knife and spread an even layer on top of the tape to "set" the tape into the wall mud. Use LIGHT pressure at the wall-corner! Ya don't wanna tear into the corner tape. * Object here is to have a seamless application of mud over this tape area. After it's dry, LIGHTLY "feather-sand" your patch with a 220-grit sanding sponge. * Vacuum off the dust from area, prime (1 coat) and paint (2 coats!!). The most common is FLAT on ceilings...usually because people don't want sheen from lamps, etc. on a ceiling. However, Eggshell is a nice choice too. Very subtle sheen (depending on brand!!). TOOLS: Use the best brushes/roller-covers you can buy. * Get a nice stiff roller-frame...$5-$10 for a good one. * Buy/borrow a STIFF pole!! Painting overhead with a "bendy" pole/roller-frame is a PITA! * Use a 3/4" or maybe 1" nap for popcorn ceilings...3/8" or 1/2" for smooth surfaces. Enjoy! Faron

Rent a drywall lift for a day. The repair will be better if you have 2x lumber around the perimeter of the patch to attach to. Sisters and cross bracing as appropriate, set so the patch wil be flush with the existing drywall. Upi can even use 2x2 pieces that are longer than the opening dimension and run drywall screws through the remining dryall to secure them in place a tthe edges of the hole. Try to get at least 1 inch from the hole edges, and them another screw about 5 inches form that on. The 2x2 needs to be 16 inches longer than the opening. Fasten the ends of the shorter piece with screws at an angle into the longer ones. Do NOT try to nail into a 2x2 secured this way (even to fasten the ends of the shorter pieces between the longer ones). Just screws. The 2x2 should be half on the old drywall, half on the new the 1.5 inch way, and screwed into both pieces about every 8 inches. You can get by with adding 2x2 pieces.

If you have accessible attic space above, you can get up in there and install a backer to give you something to screw to. Other than that, you could cut the drywall back to the nearest joist and install a new section putting backers where needed after that section of drywall is removed. Angling screws isn't going to work.

There are beams exposed on a load bearing wall and on the ceiling below the attic. No, those are not 'beams'. The 2 x4 on the ceiling is the top plate of the wall you deconstructed. The 2 x 4's on the walls are there to attach the demolished walls to the other framing. Those 2 x 4's get removed and then you proceed with repairs. The old drywall/ plaster gets cut back to studs & joists so larger pieces of new drywall can be fastened & the seams finished. (Removing those two bys with all the nails in them has nothing to do with the structural integrity of the bldg.) If it is possible to find a pro drywaller to take on such a small job, latch onto 'em. But in the real world, you may be on your own and have to repair it yourself. **ETA, I hope you carefully removed the old baseboard from the closet walls and laid them aside. You'll need those pieces to splice into the other existing base (to avoid having to try to find a match or, worse yet, having to replace all of the base in the room.)