I haven't found one. Some are better than others but I haven't seen one that's more than, say, 80% accurate.

I've had a Zircon for years. Maybe 8 years now? A basic model, has a "basic" setting plus a "deep" scan. Only indicates something behind the wall, doesn't differentiate between cast iron or wood.

But it works like a champ, shows the edges of studs right on. Never had a problem with it. And it was only $15 or so.

I have the same model of Zircon, not happy with it because it gives lots of false readings. I haven't found one thatÂs much better though they all do not work very well.

You might consider a magnetic:

Here is a link that might be useful: magnetic stud finder

Thanks for everyone's reply. Recent aggravation with my Zircon is what caused this post. Stash hit the nail on the head (no pun intended) about false readings. I might add failure to read and difficult to hold. I just hoped there might be another sensor that was easy, quick and accurate. Regards, Gene

"So, has anyone come across a magic wand that will tell where a wood stud is located?"

No, because there aren't any.

Professional builders and carpenters don't use stud finders.

You just need to learn the tricks as to how to locate studs without them.

Some small diameter 'super' magnets work well in houses with drywall.

They stick to the nails (or screw) used to attach the drywall.

Nothing seems to work well on old plaster walls.
They are just to thick (and the often less than regular stud spacing only adds to the problem).

Learn to fix holes in the walls.

I was using my strongest fridge magnet today to try to find stud in small bathroom that I had redone last fall. Dad had mild stroke but needs to hang on to something before stepping into shower. Didn't find a thing. Would a magnet from small speaker work? I have a large magnet that we picked up nails from ground after roof was finished at their house. Bro. said that would be way too strong.

Hi I have used the Zercon and I find it works not bad but you have to remember that the wall studs have sixteen inch centers and the start from the outside walls at either side but you have to find the first stud then check if the second is at sixteen unless the wall is short then it is not always the best approach.The products do not always work correct if you let pressure of the hold button for a second. But I find they do work but it is always good to check the sound by knocking on the wall and finding where it is most solid.I use all of the above methods and still make a bad hole now and again.

I have an old zircon that lights when hitting the edge of the stud. It doesn't get the exact dead on edge, so what I do is run it to one edge, then run it across the opposite direction to the opposing edge and mark the center between those two marks and it has never failed. It doesn't work great on heavy textured walls or in tight areas. It has a deep scan and a setting for mechanicals that I dont bother using. Just for finding studs on a spanned wall. Works fine but it's old and Im sure they dont make that model anymore, so your stuck with the more "upgraded , finer" technology in stud finders that I've heard nothing but negatives about. You might re-think the magnet finders that use rare earth magnets! Back to basics!

"wall studs have sixteen inch centers and the start from the outside walls at either side "

If only.

How many houses have you seen that are exact multiples of 16 inches?

I have the yellow Zircon. With drywall it works well. I just make sure to test more than once for each stud.

And sorry to mention this, but just in case there's anyone that doesn't read directions, that model lays flat on the wall, always pointing upward. Then you calibrate by turning it on where there's presumably no stud, and sliding it sideways to find the edge of something, etc.

Finally, while it may not be a magic wand, it's nice to have an assortment of anchors handy at all times. I like the "pop-toggles". For lighter work, those bright green ones that get hammered are quicker to install and work fine for lighter stuff. (Conversely, those self-drilling "EZ anchors" are lame....and especially bad for installing toilet paper holders. It's not long before they chew up the drywall and come loose.

I've been using rare earth magnets to find nails in the studs in my drywall, but they are not working in the bathroom through the ceramic tile.

My zircon stud finder works ok on interior walls but not at all on exterior walls with foil faced insulation.
Refridgerator magnets work well if the nails/screws are not buried too deep. The "Range" of a magnet is proportional to it's size. a 1/2" dia 1/8 thick rare earth magnet(that's large for a refrigerator magnet) has a contact pull force of around 7-8 lbs. At 1/8" distance, it is difficult to detect any pull force. I use a 1" dia X 1" long neodyium magnet. Just holding it in my hand and waving it over a wall I can find nails and screws that are 3/8"+ deep. The pull force is also proportional to the size of the metal object. Sheet rock nails and screws are easier to find than paneling nails.

google neodyium magnets, this size is around $10.00.

I have had good results with the stud finders. It is necessary to start with the unit pressed firmly on the wall between studs and then press the power button on the unit. Do not release the button and do not let let the unit drift off the wall surface. Starting on a stud will not work. If the unit acts "funny", release the button, move over 8 inches and start again. Rapping with a knuckle often works just as well as a stud finder.

Professional carpenters don't normally hang pictures; they are more likely to remove the wall finish in order to do their work but a stud finder does help when blowing insulation into a wall, especially when there might be diagonal bracing.

A stud finder is primarily a DIY tool so you're lucky to find one that works more than 80% of the time. I've never had any complaints.

"These instruments work by emitting an electric field that penetrates the wall or floor surface. "

The main problem with every 'stud finder' is that the actual working range is very short.

I have used some that are reasonably reliable in 1/2 inch drywall, but have yet to see one that works well in 3/4+ inch drywall, or plaster walls.

Plaster walls with metal mesh stop all of them cold.
A few have found doubled studs in wood lath plaster, but give no indication of a single stud.

Tapping and listening are just as accurate with some practice, and you can always drill a small hole and use a wire feeler to find the studs.

Keep the hole small and in can just be filled with Easysand or Durabond.

"Professional carpenters don't normally hang pictures"

I consider finish carpenters that install trims, cabinetry, closet works, etc as being professionals. The ones I know including myself use stud finders when the walls have been coated.

I give up on the Zircon, I installed base cabinets yesterday and could not locate any studs. Went back to using a nail to locate one and measured out the rest.
The manual method works.

I have never found a good one. I'll let what I do, which might sound horrible and destructive, but it works for me. The studs in my place are all over the place they run vertically and horizontally...

I use my stud finder, to give me a rough idea of where it is. Then I take small gauge nail (like a finishing nail) and tap into the wall until I find a stud. Then I just wipe a little fast n' final over the small holes that didn't hit a stud and paint. It works well for me. Especially if you have painted recently and still have paint left over or if you are mounting wall cabinets and they will be hidden anyway. Anyone feel free to tell me if this is a terrible thing to do.... I'm just a homeowner, not a professional

magnetic stud finders are the most reliable way to go.
For one that will work on all kinds of walls, you'll need one of the new moving magnet types; e.g. studpop

Hi. I know that this is an old thread but just wanted to share my experience. I live in an old house with lath and have never been able to find studs. But I read somewhere about a stud finder that uses only a magnet with a popper. I really didn't think that a 10 dollar gadget would work any better than anything else. it worked like a charm. Sometimes cheap is better www.studpop.com

thanks

Franklin Pro Sensor cant be beat. Did not see anyone recommend that in this thread. I use it often and never have a problem. http://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG You get what you pay for, $50 seems like a lot but for how much you will use it once you have it, it is worth it. I have the magnet finders also, but prefer this one.

I've tried a variety of stud sensors over the last 5-10 years, and concluded that there is no one good solution that works in all instances. For homes with sheetrock, the basic $4 Stanley magnetic studfinder works well, and typically doesn't have false positives. Once I find a fastener, I typically check where the one above and below is since sheetrockers don't consistently put fasteners dead center into studs.

I also find that a couple of dime-size rare earth magnets are great for zeroing in on nail/screw heads; I got 10 of them for $3 at Harbor Freight. For older homes with plaster walls I do resort to an electronic stud finder -- which sometimes works well -- or I pull off receptacle plates to determine where one stud is and then measure in increments of 16" with the hope that the original builders used standard framing distances.

For both sheetrock and plaster walls, I have also resorted to using a 1/16" drill and drilling through the wall at the top edge of the baseboard at about 1" increments until I find something solid (usually a stud). The trail of holes is easily patched with a swipe of spackle, and typically doesn't need painting in this location to be unnoticeable.

When I think I have located a stud, I often will drill a series of closely spaced (3/8" apart) holes with a 1/16" drill in the location I want to hang something heavy just to be sure I know where the edges and center of the stud are. This helps avoid those situations where you want to put in something like a 1/4" diameter lag bolt to hold a shelf and you aren't sure if it's actually securely screwed in or riding on the edge of the stud.

Ahhh yes. That little yellow Stanley was my first... (stud finder---that is). Being magnetic, it won't give you a false positive but I always found it a bit wimpy. Its magnet is very small and its pivot thing is sensitive to bumps on the wall. But when it works it works! From what I can tell, the studpop design probably took the good parts of the stanley and beefed them up so that it covered a much bigger area and was more sensitive. Its magnet is huge and the indication that it provides is very obvious and not fooled by bumps on the wall. It also has enough juice to be able to detect the little screws under lath and plaster and the screws underneath tile. I love it. I can use it in any house that I do work in. Yes it's $10 and the Stanley is $3ish. But I think there's no comparison in their performance. Plus $10 bucks is a lot less than the electronic crap that's out there. The Franklin appears to be the ONLY electronic one that has done it right....but it's $50+ and pretty big. That's a lot of money for something that needs batteries and (for the most part) really doesn't do any better than a good magnetic stud finder like my studpop : )

I have some neodymium magnets that I bought for other purposes. 1" dia X 1" long. These are borderline dangerous to handle. Nothing fatal, but you'll loose a little skin if you get careless. And they can be a real pain when they get near your other tools.

I mounted one in a block of wood with about 1/2" thick on sides and back and flush/exposed on one end. then I glued a 1/8" thick layer of wood over the exposed end. This minimizes the pain in the butt issue and the loss of skin.

This magnet will find a sheet rock screw at about 1" distance. Magnets cost about $10. each.

Bigger magnets are available at reasonable prices that could probably find a screw at 2"++, but they would require elaborate mounting and strickt handling procedures. Probably not worth the effort or hazards.

dickross-

I use the rare earth magnets that are about as big as a small watch battery...not so strong that they pose a risk, and cheap (10 for $3). I just trap one between my palm and the wall and slide it around: when it finds something magnetic, you know it, and there is no indicator you need to watch or any need to be concerned with wall roughness.

Another vote for the Franklin Pro referenced above. Not perfect, but it's been pretty useful in trimming out my house. Works fine through blueboard and plaster most of the time. The problem with magnets is that they only tell you where the last guy to drive a screw or nail thought the stud might have been. Similarly only 80% accurate.

The Franklin is the only one I use these days.I'll also tell you about an old trick I use.I don't know what percentage of people are left handed but most ,including electricians are right handed so when nailing in a box for outlets they will nail in on the right side of the stud.So normally you will have a full stud on the left side of your outlet and can measure centers from there.Corners ,windows and doors can throw this off but it's a good place to start.Especially if your just looking for a couple studs to attach something to.

It's pretty easy to probe to the right and left of a receptacle box by taking off the cover plate and inserting a thin bladed screwdriver or even a toothpick between the outside perimeter of the box and the sheetrock to see on which side you encounter resistance. One other trick, with sheetrock walls, is to wait until dark and use a flashlight to lay a beam parallel to the surface of the wall. Almost inevitably it will pick up one or more nailing dimples that weren't completely filled with joint compound. This will usually work, unless the wall has significant amounts of texture.

regarding the comments about magnetic stud finders, it's not true about the 80% accuracy of the screws. Anyone that's installed sheetrock knows that you can't countersink a screw unless it is threaded into the meat of a stud. And it doesn't have to be in the middle either. You've got 1.5" of stud to put your 1/8" to 1/4" screw into. I'll take a $10 magnetic stud finder over a $50 electronic any day.

I have a cheap electronic stud finder, but mostly I use my magnetic stud finder called a "Stud Thud" - it is so powerful that it will stick to the wall when it finds a screw or nail under the drywall. And it will even work through tile. No batteries!

Actually I read somewhere that the same guy that invented the studthud, went on to invent the studpop. The company that he partnered with to make the studthud makes them in china and the quality was/is crap plus the people running the company were a bunch of hacks. If you go to their website, it says "Over 500,000 sold". They're lucky to have sold 5000. Now I guess he's making them (studpops) himself in the good ol' USA.

Any rare earth magnet will do the trick.I prefer ,as a contractor to locate both edges of the stud.I don't care to locate a screw or nail that may be on the edge of a stud.I need more accuracy than that for what I do.If you're hanging a picture you don't .If you're hanging $30k of cabinets in a customers kitchen you do.The Franklin works well for me.

Ummm I'm a contractor too. The "perfect center" that people think they get out the Franklin is no better than the "center" that you get when looking for the screws. And contrary to popular belief, you don't need to screw your cabinets or whatever into the dead center of the stud. You've got 1.5" of width to work with. Unless your screw is threaded 1/2 in and 1/2 out into the stud, you've got plenty of strength. As long as the screw screws in tight then you're in the stud and the screw is just as strong as if it was in the exact center. I have been doing this a long time and have never had anything fall off the wall because I was off of the "perfect" center that you think you get with these supposed "edge" detectors.

Its common sense you will get more strength screwing into the center of a stud as opposed to screwing possibly near the edge. Have you never had wood split? It has a chance of doing that near the edge. Not sure why you are making such an argument about it. You dont need to be in a 'perfect' center just near it.

Vith-

I agree. I had a couple of experiences years ago where the screw or lag bolt seemed to go in correctly, but it started to get a bit easier to turn at the end of the process. That seemed troubling, and further investigation showed that I was about 1/16" into the edge of the stud...just enough to feel solid, but not secure. Now I always make sure I've got enough wood on either side of a hole by using a small bit to drill through the sheetrock at least 1/4" on either side of the intended hole location to make sure I'm hitting something solid to either side.

my point is that everyone makes a big deal about the inaccuracy of magnetic stud finders vs the accuracy of electronic edge finding stud finders. When the fact is that whichever method you choose, when you are screwing in your lag bolt or whatever, it's up to you to "know" by the "feel" of what you're screwing into the stud, if it is secure or not. If you're able to "sock it down" tightly...without it turning and turning, then that fastener isn't going anywhere. That's where your common sense comes in. Not in the blind trust in either type of stud finder.

Sandy- I agree...you can't expect an electronic instrument to substitute for common sense (and a little hard-earned experience). I have used every approach described above, and still do, because each situation can be a bit different, even in the same house.

I'm a huge fan of the franklin prosensor. But I also have a ch hanson magnetic stud finder too. Honestly never thought of a magnetic stud finder till I was researching for the TheBestStudFinder.com website.