In case the link is ever broken, cut and paste the PDF file here: Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University The Myth of Gypsum Magic âAdding gypsum to your yard or garden will improve soil tilth and plant healthâ The Myth Upon continued prodding from one of my university extension colleagues, I recently watched several episodes of a well-known gardening program on television. My kids joined me, alerted by my animated responses to the hostâs non-stop torrent of advice. Among many amazing discoveries I learned that by adding gypsum to my yard or garden I would improve my problem soils by changing the particle size and loosening compaction. Further searching on the web revealed that gypsum would also improve drainage, decrease acidity, and eliminate soil salts. Previously, I had heard of gypsum for use in soil reclamation projects, but not for a typical urban landscape. Since gypsum is simply calcium sulfate, could this chemical truly transform soil structure and serve as a fertilizer for yards and gardens? The Reality This myth falls into the category of agricultural practices misapplied to ornamental landscapes. Gypsum effectively changes the structure and fertility of heavy clay soils, especially those that are heavily weathered or subject to intensive crop production. Gypsum also improves sodic (saline) soils by removing sodium from the soil and replacing it with calcium. Therefore, one can see improvement in clay soil structure and fertility, and desalinization of sodium-rich soils, by using gypsum. What other effects will gypsum have on soil and plant health? There are a number of scientific studies on gypsum usage both in the literature and on websites. Briefly, researchers have found: ⢠Gypsum does not usually change soil acidity, though occasional reports of both increasing and decreasing pH exist; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of aluminum, which can detoxify soils but also contaminates nearby watersheds; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of iron and manganese, leading to deficiencies of these nutrients; ⢠Gypsum applied to acid soils can induce magnesium deficiency in plants on site; ⢠Gypsum applied to sandy soils can depress phosphorus, copper and zinc transport; ⢠Gypsum can have negative effects on mycorrhizal inoculation of roots, which may account for several reports of negative effects of gypsum on tree seedling establishment and survival; ⢠Gypsum is variable in its effects on mature trees; ⢠Gypsum will not improve fertility of acid or sandy soils; ⢠Gypsum will not improve water holding capacity of sandy soils; and ⢠Gypsumâs effects are short-lived (often a matter of months) With the exception of arid and coastal regions (where soil salts are high) and the southeastern United States (where heavy clay soils are common), gypsum amendment is just not necessary in non-agricultural areas. Urban soils are generally amalgamations of subsoils, native and non-native topsoils, and - in home landscapes - high levels of organic and non-organic chemical additives. They are also heavily compacted and layered (and gypsum does not work well on layered soils). In such landscapes, it is pointless to add yet more chemicals in the form of gypsum unless you need to increase soil calcium levels. This nutrient deficiency can be quickly identified by any soil testing laboratory for less than a bag of gypsum costs. (If you need to improve sulfur nutrition, itâs wiser to use ammonium sulfate). To reduce compaction and improve aeration in nearly any landscape, application of an organic mulch is more economically and environmentally sustainable. The Bottom Line ⢠Gypsum can improve heavy clay soil structure and remove sodium from saline soils ⢠Gypsum has no effect on soil fertility, structure, or pH of any other soil type ⢠Most urban soils are not improved by additional gypsum ⢠Before adding gypsum or any chemical to a landscape, have soil analysis performed to identify mineral deficiencies, toxicities, and soil character ⢠Adding gypsum to sandy or non-sodic soils is a waste of money, natural resources, and can have negative impacts on plant, soil, and ecosystem health For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scottâs web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com.

I suppose a suction cup device might work on very shallow superficial dents, but Kudzu is correct -- any significant dent stretches the metal. My days of studying and doing auto body repair are long over, so things may have changed, but the traditional way to straighten a panel is to work the dent from the outside to the center. If you can access the panel from behind, you bump with a hammer and dolly. If not, you use a slide hammer puller from the front (this leaves convex holes in the panel that you have to grind smooth and braze over). When the metal is as close as possible to its original contour, the dent that remains in the center represents the stretched metal. You heat this remaining dent with a torch to soften the steel, so you can bring it back as close to level as possible. A really good auto body craftsperson (I was never anywhere near that good!) can get the steel so close to its original contour that it needs only a mm or so of polyester filler (Bondo is a brand) for final leveling. The real old-timers used to use lead for leveling, but that was a long, long time ago. What little I know of current body repair practice seems to suggest that not many shops straighten panels any more. They replace them. So this is a kind of roundabout way of saying that your local auto body shop may not be of much help.

The hinges are NRP, non removable pin, and are used, in residential applications, as a deterrent to forced entry when the door swings out. To lube, remove the set screw, drive the hinge pin up with a hammer and nail set, lube with faucet lube, plumbers waterproof grease, and reset.

There was a wall taken out that is directly opposite from where the floor is damaged the wall was taken down due to mold , I think there was some spotting in the ceiling so I would assume it was from above but the answer or question is , For a temporary cover up aka fix What could I possibly use to cover or treat the area in order to lay down stick tile? We are aware it is done for but unfortunately we lost everything we owned from our business , car , previous home , And our family due to unforeseen circumstances and we have been house ridden in depression and We are now in a rental that is extremely affordable and made the agreement that we can work on it in exchange for a discounted rent . So far we have repainted, Torn up the entire carpet , Laid down the new tile in dining room , Took down the old discusting ceiling fans ,Put new blinds over all the windows, Attempted to put updated  window treatments but It looks cheesy and I want to return them I tried to get the question out here on what I needed to In reference to color schemes, Placements of everything as well as helping me pick out furniture from Wayfair and rooms to go for which I have a credit card of 10000 and can pickup anything that I'm being told to. But people keep telling me I'm doing my posts wrong and in pretty much trying to take all the pictures I can and asking to decorate my house but I'm. It getting a reply I'm getting tossed in different directions, When I tell everyone I need help from top to bottom with everything from color of a lamp down to the nitty gritty I need to know I will go buy it and do it! So I've provided pics of everything I Have Please help me fix what I can and buy what will look good ! It will mean so much to see all your nings going to work !