You could try Battery Specialists, I use them very often for things I need for work. They have always been able to find what I need. They are local for me, but they ship stuff too. They have a website with live chat and/or a toll free number. Just Google "Battery Specialists".

Try to "trace" the kill wire from where it connects to the coil, to its next "connecting point". This may lead you to the throttle linkage area near the carburetor, or to a terminal on the ignition switch. It might "branch off" from either of those locations and continue to a seat switch or a clutch/brake pedal switch. The idea behind your search is to try and identify all the places where the "KILL WIRE" circuit travels to, and connects. Any single switch that is connected to the kill wire circuit is capable of "switching to ground" and thereby "killing the spark, and the engine. If you can identify all switches that can ground the kill wire, you then have to determine whether a specific switch is defective or simply out of adjustment. Click the link below and study the Briggs IPL for your engine. Go to page 8 of the IPL. First, find item # 222, this is the throttle cable attachment point and also incorporates the OEM Briggs "stop switch". Inspect this switch carefully to determine if it has lost the isulator components that could cause this switch to "short to ground". Find item # 356, 356A, and 356B. This is the OEM Briggs kill wire (stop wire). Notice that 356B is a "two wire" configuration. YOUR engine will only feature one of the 3 configurations of stop wire. 356B is an example of what I meant about the kill circuit "branching off" to other locations. Now, you will have to trace the circuitry to determine how many things (switches) are employed on your particular machine. Keep in mind, SOME seat switches (OPSS) have a "shorting plug" or connector that connects to the switch terminals. These "shorting connectors" cannot simply be "unplugged" from the switch to check or defeat. The shorting function of these connectors will deploy when the connector is removed from the switch and that will ground the kill circuit the same as if the seat was "vacant". Here is a link that might be useful: 422707 link

LOL Both of you. I'm still trying to figure out "ALL THE CLUES" LOL I have no idea the what any of the answers to any of the clues are, Oh one was "Heart." Still trying. Dorothy

Thanks for the suggestions! Jack, when I visited you a few months ago, you pointed out your sprayer and at the time mine was working fine, so I didn't take note of the brand! So far, the only sprayers that look like candidates that fit my requirement (4-7 gallons) are the Fimco and SpotShot. I'm a little hesitant on the SpotShot because the warranty is pretty bad....only 90 days on the pump. Fimco at least comes with a 1 year warranty, but I can't seem to find anyone who has one. http://www.fimcoindustries.com/lg5p.htm or http://spotshotsprayer.com/main.htm I'm afraid if I get anything bigger it will never be used to its full capacity....4 gallons will get all of my plumies and most of the yard, 7 gallons would allow me to generously douse the whole yard. If the Spot Shot and Fimco are no-gos, I'm half tempted to build my own by buying items from northerntool.com , but I seriously lack the know-how at the moment. Trojanfan, I went to HD to get ANY no-pump sprayer as a temp solution to get me through the next few weeks, and they don't have anything that doesn't require pumping anymore. Thanks for the suggestion, though!