lol, low 40's :) frosty!! relax mom, the kids are safe! is your Can set up out in the yard? is it layers deep or just started? do you have the "lid" for it? if there's a decent volume of material in multiple trays, with the day temps you're likely having, 40° will be refreshing for them, likely not dropping the actual temp of the bedding more than 10-15° below what it was during the day if there's not much material in it or you have it in a shaded place that stays cool in the day, 40° might slow them down a bit, but won't hurt them at all - my outdoor bin is large, but we're still having night temps as low as 32-38, and with days only about 50-55, the worms are smokin Bill

I'm not sure I agree that duct work has come a long way in the past several years. What I do know is that many homes have the duct work sitting on the attic floor with a very small amount of insulation wrapped around them. Ultimate-R can certainly help but prior to installing the containment system you want to be sure and properly check for any leakage. The prep work that takes place prior to installing Ultimate-R can really make a difference. Regarding the suspended ductwork, we blow them separately and usually after we install Ultimate-R and blow the duct work on the ceiling floor. Whichever comes first always depends on the attic layout. Our customers swear by the product and I know personally that it makes a tremendous difference in the air quality of the home and esecially in the upper levels of 2 story homes where it is difficult to keep cool. Also, we've learned a lot from many other insulation installers who install Ultimate-R as they've shared ideas on the application itself. It will make a major difference in the air quality, comfort level and utility bills but Ultimate-R really only addresses one of many areas that need to be addressed when making a home more energy efficient and improving the comfort level in the home. Any other ideas please share them.

I can remember back in the late 50s and early 60Âs when fuel was cheap the water heaters were operated at 180degF and they had no insulation or external jacketing. In those days there was a great concern that people were accidentally bumping up against the water heaters and receiving severe burns. The standards were then amended requiring that all water heaters must have a minimum of ¾" of fiberglass insulation, a sheet metal jacket and under no circumstance could the external temperature of the unit exceed 140degF under normal operation. During the first fuel crisis in the mid 70Âs people were encouraged to install additional insulation blankets to reduce the standby losses from the water heater, however it was soon realized that if an insulation blanket is improperly installed it interferes with the normal function of the water heater thermostats and temperature & pressure relief valves causing very erratic temperatures and in some instances creating safety issues. In addition, quite often when the insulation blankets are improperly installed they interfere with the normal flow of combustion air and result in very high levels of carbon monoxide. In the late 80Âs the plumbing codes were again amended requiring that ALL water heaters must now have a minimum of R-12 insulation. REF: International Residential Code IRC-504.2.1(en) Uniform Plumbing Code UPC-150(j)1A(c ) The codes specifically sayÂ"No external blankets required" Many local codes have amended that wording to say "External Blankets Prohibited". In my jurisdiction there is a $50 fine for even selling a water heater blanket. In order to meet the new insulation standards most water heater manufacturers have discontinued the use of fiberglass insulation and they now use cast in foam insulations, which often far exceed the required R-12 minimum Everyone seems to be fixated on the supposed high energy wasted to standby losses from a tank type water heater, but in reality such is not the case. Two years ago our plumbing apprenticeship class, in co-operation with the local gas company and a number of local hardware stores, appliance dealers and plumbing suppliers set up a project to test the actual cost of water heater standby losses. Twelve different makes and models of residential contractor grade 50gal gas tank type water heaters were installed in an unheated warehouse. All 12 units were fed from a common water line and each water heater is supplied through a separate gas meter. Each water heater is then fitted with one line on the output side that terminates into a keyless hose bib beside the unit, thus there is no demand from these water heaters therefore they represent standby losses only. The water heaters were then filled and left standing with the thermostats set at the code maximum of 120degF. Every month the gas meters are read and the fuel cost is computed at the standard residential rate for this area. After two years of following this project it has been determined that the monthly average standby loss is $5.02. (The worst case in the test is averaging $5.87mo.) I might add that two of the water heaters in this test have specific wording in their installation manuals that states the addition of an insulation blanket will void the warranty.

Are you thinking of having the foil tight against the surface of the heater, or of leaving some space between - maybe a half inch? I think that they say that if there's an inch or more of space in a window, that convection will take place between the cold and hot surfaces. If so, what would one use as spacers between the tank and the foil wrapper, to keep the small interval constant? Also, the foil wouldn't be the only cost ... ... another use for duct tape! If you use masking tape or clear tape, it'll deteriorate after three or four years and need to be replaced. How be you use some of the foil to make a medal for yourself, labelling it, "Shining example of energy conservation"? You could even make a large one, with a mirror in the middle, with a small hatch covering it, which you could open using air through a tube from a bulb in your pocket, that you could squeeze when you meet someone who's a good example of an energy conserver, especially an innovative one. You could even carry a camera to take a picture of the smile on their face when they saw their face in the mirror. Of course ... then they'd want such a medal, as well, no? The sale of such should finance the foil (plus duct tape) for your water heater. Or your share of a generator's purchase to service half a dozen houses' freezers, fridges, etc. in case of power outage. Maybe even a furnace ... if local code will allow you to install a push 'n twist plug in the line to your furnace. Dang! You pinch my insulation ... it's up to the landlord to replace it ... ... but the guy that hurts is I ... cause I have to pay for the oil! Landlord's worried about a couple of evergreens whose branches are nearing the power line (one touching). So ... he girdled the tree, about 8' from the top, figures the branches'll die, maybe even the wind knock the top off, eventually. He's a sod farmer, chairman of local conservation authourity. It seems to me that we need to get serious about energy conservation ... not only due to the need to conserve it, but for warming and polluting reasons, as well. If we think that we've had trouble thus far with regard to all three of those problems ... just wait till Asia and South America get into high gear! Enjoy spring. ole joyful