Listing any kind of work as an Allowance with no agreed upon unit prices is the same as contracting for that work as a "Cost of the Work with a Fee". The obvious disadvantage is that you lose the pricing control you would have with a Fixed Price contract. A common builder approach is to propose a low Allowance amount and then add a markup to the much larger actual cost. It is also not uncommon for a contractor to require you to use their favorite sub or supplier who has already added an unknown markup. It is also not uncommon for the supplier to give the contractor a discount that should be passed on to you but is not. The only advantage of an Allowance is that you don't have to decide what you want until later which is often a costly convenience. I recommend that an Allowance only be used for materials not labor (labor should already be in the fixed Price); that quantities and unit prices be established when possible even if they are approximate; and adding a clause that says you can get a credit for a particular Allowance and supply the materials yourself if you wish. Allowances have been discussed many times in this forum. If you search for "allowance" you will find those discussions. You will be able to see the stress and loss they have caused members. This post was edited by Renovator8 on Sun, Jul 7, 13 at 7:35

First make sure the Ice & Water Shield is not under the felt paper. It makes no sense for a roofer to violate the contract in such an obvious way. Ice dams will form on any roof slope if there are severe enough freeze-thaw cycles in the winter. That is the factor that will determine whether to fix the error or ask for a refund. Don't worry about the contractor or his opinions. Do you get a lot of snow? Do you get alternating cold and warm days? Do you see large icicles on roof eaves? Do you have gutters? If so, how far below the drip edge are they installed? How far does the roof eave extend beyond the exterior wall?

Lily, Hope the bath is well! A few small things on the roof: The ice/water shield need to run high enough up on the roof so that it's "inside" the exterior wall of the house. If you have large overhangs, you may need two courses of I&W. It should be noted that the I&W will be installed IAW manufacturer's instructions. Drip edge? Where's mention of the drip edge? Have new drip installed. Do not reuse the old. I usually use F8, which is larger than most, it's about $6 for a 10' length. I run drip up the rakes and across the eaves. Do not allow them to simply have the shingles overhang the sheathing by and inch or so. The shingle will eventually droop and crack. The shingles should overhang the drip by about 1/4" or so...which can vary...which leads me to say: "The shingles will be installed IAW the manufacturer's installation instructions. The instructions just happen to be printed on the inside face of the paper wrapper that encases each bundle of shingle." Have them follow the manufacturer's nailing schedule. Chimney flashing? existing will be removed and replaced with new. I prefer lead or lead-coated copper. New step flashing will be installed, new counterflashing will be let into the mortar seam between the brick. Do not let them reuse any existing flashing. Do you have a DWV pipe coming out of your roof? Have them install a new boot. About $4 for the boot. Do not let them reuse the existing. Skylights. Again, have it specified that the lights will be installed and flashed IAW the manufaturer's installation instructions. Have it specified the the work done will meet or exceed any loca, state, or national building codes that may apply. Is a permit being pulled? Is it required that one be pulled.? I don't use pot vents, so I can't comment on them. Foundation and landscaping plants will be protected from damage during the tear off. I use hot dipped galvanized nails, but I live in a coastal environment. You're using a 30-yr shingle. Have you given though to using a 40-year? Roofing is mostly labor, the cost of a 40 yr shingle over a 30 may only be about $20 more per square, or about $600 more for a roof of your size. Lastly, all work will be done in a workmanlike manner. And did I mention that it should be specified that everything should be installed IAW the manufacturer's installation instructions? Best of luck! Mongo

Well...this isn't an issue of whether you are being fair, it is an issue of law. There must be a contract which it sounds like you read because you state the deposit is non-refundable, what does it say about start date and completion date? Remember that a judge will uphold the contract and more than likely dismiss anything verbal. It isn't like "judge Judy" and you have to have a point of law to prevail. Having said that you will want to make sure you are willing to leave behind the 2k if you hire another roofing contractor. Hind sight tells you to research any potential contractors you choose to hire(most states have an online search of civil/criminal records for individuals and business's) and follow up with references. My advice to you is to work this out with the Roofer and make the best of it because you want your roof replaced in a timely manner but it won't matter if it is done next week or next month. It probably isn't worth losing 2k to get your roof a month earlier. Hope it isn't leaking!!