What kind of range hood with high ceilings?
Hi all,
I need some advice on what to do about a range hood in a kitchen with really high, 11' ceilings. I'm planning to have a 36" gas cooktop with 36" of horizontal space above it for the hood. Or maybe 42", but with enough cfm's I think 36" will be enough, and that leaves more space for cabinets.
If the ceilings were normal height, I could just do an under-cabinet hood with the duct routed up through the cabinets to the ceiling. But since the ceilings are going to be so high I think I need to do something else.
Here's a SketchUp drawing of the kitchen design so far. The way I have it drawn the wall cabinets extend up to the 8' level, but that's pretty flexible; I just picked a number because I had to.
Here are a few options I can think of for the hood.....
Add a second layer of cabinets across that whole wall, going all the way up to the ceiling. Then I can use an under-cabinet hood and route the duct through there with no problems. But 11' of cabinets on just that one wall might be overwhelming. That's almost as tall as it is wide!
- Use an under-cabinet hood and a second layer of cabinets, but only put the stacked cabinets above where the hood is. That gets rid of the 11' wall of cherry, but I'm not sure how it would look.
- Sort of a compromise between those two: add stacked cabinets all the way across, but only 18" high or so, except in the middle they'd go all 36" up to the ceiling. Or I suppose there could even be 3 layers there in the middle.
- Use a great, big "professional" style hood whose top lines up with the top of the wall cabinets. Then add another row of wall cabinets above it to hide the duct.
- Use one of the modern, minimalist hoods that has a visible, stainless duct coming out of the top. Run that all the way up to the ceiling, with no cabinets above the cooktop at all. I kind of like this idea, but people I've talked to said they thought that having a 5' or 6' steel pipe running up the wall would be ugly.
- ????
Do any of you have any ideas, or maybe any photos of designs you think might work here?
While I have your attention here's an unrelated question. Based on the drawing above, what would you do with the wall cabinets in the corner? Leave them along only the right-hand wall like I have in my drawing, or add a corner cabinet there and come out a couple feet onto the wall where the window is? I'm leaning toward the former, because corner cabinets are a pain and because this way there's the same amount of wall space on either side of the window. What do you think?
Thanks!
BTW, the design so far was inspired quite a bit by buehl and cloud_swift. Buehl convinced me to move the fridge over to the right-hand wall. (And then my architect convinced me to move the oven over there too, which I decided was better functionally even though it's a bit less attractive visually.) ...
Comments (16)
12 years agoAny chimney wall hood could have the chimney run all the way up the wall. Whether you like the look of those hoods is up to you, but a visible chimney is the whole point of them. Like so:
- 12 years ago
I did a version of my SketchUp drawing with a chimney-style range hood. In this one you can see the high ceiling and sort of how it will tie into the living area's cathedral ceiling.
From Kitchen plans
It looks pretty nice, I think, at least as far as I can tell in a drawing like this. I may want to add another layer of cabinets too anyway, though maybe not all the way to the ceiling.
I also tried one with stacked cabinets just over the range area, and it was too ugly to post. But I want to do one with another layer of cabinets along that whole wall. I'll post that later, as an excuse to bump this thread.
Any advice on the hood or cabinets would be much appreciated!
Thanks!
Laura
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Trying to find what kind of range hood I need.
Comments (31)So much discussion here! I looked into a kitchen designer. That does not seem to exist around here. But I will keep looking. I did talk to a business about 60 miles away, but they were only interested in selling me everything they had. No specific design services. Yes, I have become the GC for sure. I have a whole project workflow that I put together based on research. I hear you, I probably shouldn't have to do all this, but its what I have to do. @jhmarie, this is how we roll. Cabinet maker is an hour and a half away from me. He is Amish, so when all the cabinets are made I will have to pick everything up, and bring his crew over with all their tools. Going this route is a choice I made after looking at the New Point and whatever cabinets offered from a distribution center an hour away. Thanks for the info, but I should be good. Amish guy had no issues with the hood after I took it over and we talked things through. And yes, the insert is needed for sure. Broan literature has that all over the warnings. @Sophie, good info on the fire hazard, I did run across such warnings in the Broan literature and through a few other websites. Amish guy does seem to have a good grasp on the codes involved. @The Cook's Kitchen. Good advice. I got the smartest one for sure, he seems very confident in the plan, and is very helpful. As mentioned a few times, he is not a kitchen designer though. Shared...See MoreWhat kind of hood over your Wolf Range top with griddle?
Comments (11)More precisely, the MUA blower should have about the same flow rate with the MUA pressure losses as the hood system blower has with its pressure losses, and do so at every hood blower setting. Generally, the two blowers will be different models with different fan curves, and balancing has to be done via a control system, or via baristatic dampers. adamcatum's furnace system may have a control system of its own that keeps the house slightly positive. In that case, introducing MUA to the furnace might work so long as the furnace blower can meet the maximum flow rate of the hood system blower with all the furnace system restrictions and still be within its house pressure control range. This is all so much easier with commercial systems. The hood runs at one speed and the MUA blower runs at one speed to provide adequate flow to match the hood. In a basement-dumping active MUA system (one with a filter and a blower), one could independently heat the basement based on the air temperature, and have a damper controlled inlet to the MUA blower from the basement (short circuit like) as well as one from outside. The blower could run at full speed, or at some control speed higher than needed based on the voltage to the hood blower or kitchen to outside pressure, or whatever, and the interior basement damper would route excess air back into the blower, thereby not wasting heated air. As previously noted, the means of getting the warmed basement air to the kitchen must have low pressure loss. If toe kick spaces are used, the total area should be commensurate with the hood aperture area, and the air flow should be directed away from the cooktop so that it can fill the room and not be turbulent at the cooktop. Depending on what is in the basement, CO sensors should be widely used. Also, paint spraying and other such activities, if performed in the basement, would require a means of shutting off the air path to the kitchen....See MoreRange hood mistake, too high
Comments (91)Now, since y'all did such a great job with my range hood maybe you can help me with two other things! I am attaching a picture of what it looks like when you walk into my kitchen. I am getting a 54 inch round glasstop to replace the kitchen table you see. I am attaching a picture of a chair that I am thinking about which is white polyurethane with brushed stainless legs. Please give me your thoughts if you think this w ill work. Also, still don't know what color to paint this Gold Room! Do I need to start a new post about these Inquiries?...See MoreWhat roof vent for high CFM range hood?
Comments (9)If one wants full capture and containment, the dual-purpose of a cooking hood, then two key parameters have to be achieved. The hood has to overlap the cooktop sufficiently to capture the rising and expanding cooking plumes from the burners/hobs, and the air flow rate has to be high enough to assure that the captured plumes are pulled through the filter and not allowed to reflect back into the kitchen. This requires sufficient air velocity at the hood canopy entry aperture. Adequate depends on what is being cooked, the temperature it is at, and whether the plume is augmented by gas flame combustion products. I suggest 90 CFM/sq. ft. of entry aperture (achieving 90 ft/min). This value times the entry aperture in square feet yields the required full power volumetric air flow rate (CFM). To achieve this CFM in the presence of pressure losses in the hood baffles/filter, duct, hood to duct transition, duct to roof cap transition, and significantly the make-up air (MUA) differential pressure achieved, requires a blower with a zero static pressure rating higher than the required flow rate. A factor of 1.5 may be a good starting point for analysis. It is easy to get to a rated 700 - 1000 CFM blower depending on cooktop size, although without more information we cannot determine the OP's actual need. In my view, the hood should be blowerless, and the blower should be on the roof. Typical down roof blowers such as Broan, Wolf, and Abbaka sell are one useful style. They have automatic dampers that open when active. The alternative is an appropriately sized up-blast blower such as routinely seen on restaurant roofs (only smaller) that has its own advantages and disadvantages (mainly heightened visibility). If enough duct length exists and space around it is available, a silencer can keep the blower noise down to conversational level. The OP should review the myriad hood threads on this forum, along with MUA threads, to gain an appreciation of the factors involved in adequate kitchen ventilation. For background, there are commercial reports that may be found on the Internet, such as from the California Air Resources Board. For a good summary, the first dozen or so pages of the Greenheck guide may be read. http://www.greenheck.com/media/pdf/otherinfo/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf...See MoreRelated Professionals
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- 12 years ago
I agree with brick - here's what I had to do. I used drywall but the material can be anything.
- 12 years ago
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- 12 years ago
Hi Greg,
That's the conclusion I was coming to a well, since I need the ducting on the kitchen side of the wall. (The other side will be a bedroom, probably the guest room.)
I drew the thing four different ways in SketchUp and did 2d images of them....
Chimney hood. I think this one is my favorite because I'm going for a contemporary look:
Hood under stacked cabinets like my architect suggested. Overwhelming, but maybe OK if I were going for a more traditional look. A lighter color on the 2nd row might make it a it better, but I couldn't find an easy way to draw that. Lowering the ceiling by a foot might help too, by making the 2nd row shorter.
A chase / soffit like tubeman has. I think this one is a close second place visually. I wonder if this would be quieter since the ducting would be less exposed.
Just for the heck of it, a hood inside a wooden enclosure. This looks nicer than I thought it would, and it might be nice in a more traditional / transitional design. It's probably not quite right for me, but I need to think about it and go find some real life pictures of this sort of design.
Thanks for all the advice!
BTW, for anyone wanting to play with SketchUp, the 3d warehouse has some "SketchData" frameless cabinet components that make this sort of thing pretty easy to create. There are even some YouTube videos explaining how to use them.
Laura
- 12 years ago
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