Dreamer - You sound like you have my contractor! I'm in the exact same boat that you are, except I don't live on-sight. I feel your pain and know what you're going through. It sounds like we're almost at about the same point in our build. I wanted to general the build myself, but logistically I couldn't pull it off. I'm in the military and needed someone to follow the project through to completion in case I was deployed on short notice. Also, after getting bids back, I noticed that there wasn't a lot of difference between general contractor bids and those I was getting from subcontractors as a whole. So, I decided, in the end, I would hire a general contractor. I can't say I'm completly suprised at the slow pace (I had references tell me he's slow, but good), so I guess I can't complain. I guess I felt my options were limited and I was doing too much wishful thinking. I'm coming to the end of month three and for the most part I'm satisfied with the decision to go this direction, however the speed of the project leaves a lot to be disired. The general has one other major project he's working on along with other window/siding jobs that come along. Since the floor joists and rafters went up, he's had someone (lead framer) with helpers on-site working every day, but like you it's not a full crew. What makes matters worse though, is this other job is 100 miles away and when the general contractor is away for short periods (3 days every couple of weeks) of time he hasn't been available by cell phone. If I were in you shoes, I would weight the pros and cons and then decide if it's worth replacing the general contractor at this stage of the build. Are there other generals available to pick-up the pieces and carry on? Would you save money/time? Another consideration, and one you've brought up, is the legal aspect of the arrangement. I too wonder what would happen if I decided to fire him, because it wasn't addressed in my contract. I don't have an answer, but think it would be a messy divorce. This probably didn't answer your questions, but know that you're not the only one in these set of circumstances. Good luck!

hendricus It is good to know 3/4-inch-thick drywall is available. I was concerned the general contractors might tell us we have no choice but to go with 1/2-inch-thick drywall. I would rather pay the difference in cost and use 3/4-inch. brickeyee Our plaster consists of 3/8-inch-thick gypsum (rock) lath, covered with about 1/4-inch of "cement" plaster, then approximately 1/8-inch of "finish" plaster. We have a chunk we saved from a damaged area we patched several years ago. It fits your first description of two-coat plaster exactly. (I did a little research Online last night after you told me what it wasÂit is definitely not veneer plaster.) What do you recommend using as a setting compound? We used mesh tape and ready-mix drywall joint compound, since it is easy to sand, which could be our problem. Our home has a 1/2-story with stairway access, which was never finished. We do walk up there some, since we use it for storage. It could be the floor joists have too much give. Thank you both for the helpful information! CK (Sorry if this posts twice. This is my second try!)

I put together 2 sheets - one I used as a guideline when interviewing contractors and another when interviewing their references. I didn't necessarily asked them every question. I can email you the finished sheets. Contractor: date Phone number: After hours No. Registered in MA? Contact: Address: Referred by: How many years of experience? How long in business? How much experience with historical homes? What is your specialty? What sets you apart from the rest? Tell them about my job: Converting 1820s house back to single Items contractor may do or my subs: Items we may do: How many renovations have you completed? How many completed similar projects? How many kitchen designs have you completed? What do you see as the important issues? License Type of work licensed to do: Where are licenses held? call the local building department to validate the number. Also, call the State Consumer Protection Agency to find out if the contractor had to prove financial stability, pass an exam, or just pay a fee for the license Check with your local building department or consumer protection agency to find out about licensing requirements in your area. Is the company bonded and with who? Can I have a banking and/or financial reference? Check financial stability. If the contractor is unable to pay for materials, labor, and overhead costs, the job could go unfinished. What insurance coverage do you have? At a minimum, contractors should have Workman's Compensation: Name of Co. and phone number general liability (including property and personal liability), Amount, Name of Co. and phone number: automobile insurance Name of Co. and phone number: Call the insurance agency to confirm effective dates of the insurance policies. What professional/trade organizations are you are a member of? Check membership standing in the organization provided. Have you taken any classes or attended any trade seminars in the past 2 years? Do you have any projects under litigation or complaints filed against you? Any judgments against the company? How do you handle this type of job? Who will be assigned as a project supervisor for the job? Will they be there every day? Do you have employees or do you use subcontractors? Will you be using subcontractors on this project? If yes, ask to meet them, and make sure they have current insurance coverage and licenses, if required. Also ask them if they were paid on time by this contractor How interested are you in this project? Are you available and have capacity? When can you start? How long do you expect to complete this project? Based on the project detail, what permits may be required? May I have an itemized estimate on the project that includes materials, labor, overhead, and a time frame? The estimate should be in writing in order to compare it with the estimates you receive from the other two contractors. What is your experience/track record with cost estimating or quotes? Questionaire for references: Contractor: date Phone number: Reference: What is your experience/track record with cost estimating or quotes? Â How did you find out about this contractor? Â How long ago did this contractor work for you? Â What was the quality of the finished project? Â Did the contractor recommend a contract, including a written estimate? If not, did you request a contract? Did the contractor balk at the idea? Â Did the project go over the original estimate? If so, by how much? What changes from the original project did you request? Did the contractor provide an acceptable detailed explanation? Â Did the contractor use a written change order form before making changes to the original estimate? Â Did the contractor stay on schedule and report to work in a timely manner? Â Did the contractor have a good attitude throughout the project? Â Did anything unusual or unsettling happen during the course of the project? Â How qualified were the workers and subcontractors? Â Did the contractor stay on-site to supervise during the project? Â How accessible was the contractor? Â Was the site clean and safe at all times? Â Would you recommend this contractor to your family and friends? Â Would you use this contractor again?

Banker and Money first. Where is that coming from? How much is available? What are the priorities for it being spent? Do you care if you are "over improving" for the neighborhood? If this is an upscale 160K+ renovation, you need to know how much ++ you are realistically comfortable spending. You can spend all kinds of crazy money blowing out walls and adding additions, but there are very few markets where that type of expense will be returned to you at resale. Figure out your line in the sand as far as the cost you are willing to spend on that house, before you throw up your hands and say "we will just move." https://www.remodeling.hw.net/cost-vs-value/major-kitchen-remodel-upscale?y=2023 Once you have a budget figure in mind, then work with a good KD for a "concept design" to show to your GC. You do not need to know that you will have a 4 equal size drawer base next to your range, and have genuine Mexican saltillo tile on the floors. You just need a rough draft of the major changes to the layout being made, and a 1-10 idea of the level of quality and expense to be spent. People always underestimate the costs for the level, BTW. National average middle of the road kitchens are 80K these day. That's a Level 5, average, right in the middle. An upscale kitchen, blowing out that 20' wall for a La Cantina slide and stack door to the patio, and putting in a 48" range that needs a gas line and vent pipe, and HVAC upgrade are going to put you in a 7-10. Depends on everything else. Take that concept to the GC for a ballpark. Ask what are the major costs driving that ballpark, so that if it's already over your budget figure, you can see if you eliminate that 20' La Cantina door, you can meet budget. Or, the whole thing may be way over your budget. But, you will only be out a couple of thousand for design work, instead of thousands and thousands. Expect the ballpark to rise, as the design is revised to include more details. At least 30%. So, you want that initial to be at least 40% under your max. Once the GC gives you the rough ballpark, that is when you can work on the 4 drawer base next to the range, and the merits of a wood hood vs stainless. Those are the decisions that make the cost rise, so this is where YOU get to control costs, via your want list, vs what you actually need. If you cannot reign in your wants, expect to go more than 40% above your initial ballpark price given by the GC. "While we are at it" change orders will sink a budget.