If you have heaving, then the glass-granite would be a concern. There should be a gap between the two, and that gap should be caulked, not grouted. The bowed wall, if the tile is over drywall, the bump could be a drywall joint compound "speed bump". But it should be gradual and not sudden, and a bump like that shouldn't cause lippage. I have seen installers who simply don't press tiles "flat" into the thinset. Some press more on the top edge of the tile, a few press more on the bottom edge of the tile. Those habits can result in "vertical lippage", but the tiles are usually consistent on the side edges. It's a backsplash and it's decorative. So a little lippage here and there, while not desirable, it's not really going to affect function. But if there are lights that reflect off the splash and it can be viewed at a low raking angle and it looks nasty? Then perhaps a "poor worksmanship" line has been crossed. The kicker though is the lack of a gap between the bottom course of glass tile and the granite. In your photo, is the cut glass tile at the j-box cracked? Might just be reflection/refraction. And for grins, the tile setter should have used a cement-based powdered thinset that is mixed with water to set the glass. Not a premixed mastic.

I think you are asking me? If not....sorry... I will take the tile up cabinet height around my window as there are cabinets on both sides.....I am leaving the rest of the window without trim as I have 2 & 7/8" from cabinet to edge of window...and thought I would put a small trim around it...but then when they put the light rail up there is only 1 & 7/8"..so think it's too small for trim.....What is everyone's opinion? Just found out today...that the guys that was going to do the tile (looks like they work as a team) won't be able to do it until the one that is having knee surgery is able to work ...which could be weeks!! He came today to get paid for all the other work he did...and I asked him if his partner would go ahead and put the tile up.....He is suppose to let me know... Oh well I've waited this long....and really not long at all...so a few more weeks is OK....just anxious to see the kitchen completely finished...now that I finally have the Subway tile sitting in boxes waiting to be installed.

Our backslpash is a combo of crackle glass and slate. We sealed everything shortly after install last July. Currently everything looks as good as the day it was installed. Haven't come across anything that was difficult to wipe off or clean. I should say though that we have a sheet of stainless behind the range. I cook every single day and most of the time quite messily so the stainless has been awesome and easy to clean in that area. Here's a close up pic of our backsplash...it may not be for everyone but I just love it. I wanted all slate...hubby wanted glass so this was a perfect compromise! This was right after install and all the grout wasn't cleaned off the slate yet. I just love all the different colors in the slate!

http://www.delphiglass.com/soldering-supplies/flux-finishing-chemicals/mirror-edge-sealant Here is a product, but there are automotive products that do the same thing. Its just a spray, and you could just hit the silver ones. Do you know what type of adhesive your tile person used? In mosaic we use thinset mortar. DRY. not premixed. Premixed thinsets are mastic based, and they WILL fail. especially outdoors. Your environment also matters. If you live in a dryer frost free area, it could be find for a number of years. The reason I ask is because mirror uses a special mirror mastic. I would never use mastic for anything I want to endure However, tile people often have different opinions about that. And I know when mastic is used in my region out of doors because I often pick up the broken tiles that have fallen off to use in my work :) I have obtained some very expensive ceramic that way. At any rate, here is an article for you. Good luck! http://tiletools.com/mastic-vs-thinset-which-should-i-use/