Good question and comments. This is often the leakiest transition in most homes, mainly at foundation to framing. The typical sill sealer used here is too thin. Best to use thicker sill sealers, gaskets or caulk the top and bottom of thin sill sealer during installation. Since most architects and builders miss this detail, it can help to caulk the sill to the foundation while there is still access from the inside. If you can't reach the sill plate, it can still help to caulk the drywall to slab, subfloor or finished floor. This can help mitigate moisture, bugs, dust and energy loss. If your wall cavities aren't spray foamed, dense packed, or SIPS, then they are probably acting as air pathways to some degree. Air can be pulled through them from the basement, attic or floor framing cavities and with it can come dust. Stopping this sort of unwanted air movement is better from a moisture management standpoint as humid air traveling through cold building cavities leads to hidden moisture problems. Acoustical caulk, urethane caulk or high quality one part spray foam are good materials for sealing. I wouldn't bother with Dap's and other water based spray foam, I've seen it turn to dust with light touch, just days after installing.

I am a cabinetmaker, I know how the sausage is made. I know very many cabinetmakers and I know very many installers. My practical knowledge is not a generalization, it is not a personal viewpoint, far from it. It is fact. Are you a cabinetmaker? Ok akchicago, lets begin the lesson. Frameless as you call them are euro boxes, thats because they originated in Germany post ww2. Europe had no kitchens, so they needed cabinets quickly. They sat down and came up with what is essentially a modular system based on a 32 mm increment. This was the initial distance between two boring spindles on the first euro woodworking machine. Incidentally, many Europeans take their kitchen cabinets with them when they move. Because of this ( and other reasons to be explained ) there needs to be a common installation system that is simple to use. I am not bashing American face frame cabinets, they are just differently made and need different machines and due to the joinery and material choice have much looser tolerances. Look at Poggenpohl website, they have a video of the manufacturing process. Now this is the utimate in euro but you get the idea, the machinery is top notch. Its not a powermatic table saw, a planer and a jointer. Anyhow....32mm ( the true name of frameless ) is a system. The base cabinets should have adjustable legs, such as the ones made by Camar. There should be no integral toe. This was cables can pass underneath and water damage will not wick upwards into your cabinet. There should be no blocking of the slides or hinges, they should be flush with the cabinet sides and work "in system" ie increments of 32mm. Reveals are commonly set to 3/32" and should be perfectly lined up horizontally and vertically everywhere. In terms of the biggest installation mistake, look at the uppers. They should have "suspension blocks" in the top left and right corners. These are small adjustable hardware that have a hook on the back that fit onto a metal rail that is attached to the wall behind. The reason for these suspension blocks is this,...if you were to say mount the cabinets directly to the wall with screws, the cabinets will conform to the irregular contours of the wall. These forces cause racking of the box, the box has no face frame to keep the opening square, now all the front edges of the cabinets are out of plane, that means your doors will not be set square or co-planar ie your reveals will never be constant. I am not trying to dissuade you from frameless. I love frameless. What I am trying to impress on you is that its very important to choose the right cabinet company. Here's the thing, I am coming from a very high level and to be honest most people dont see the things that I do. Why dont you tell them that you want the faces to be perfectly flush and the reveals equal, level and plumb. Stress this point and tell them you will go around and check each door when its done.

Here's a link to images of mine, which is in Western Penn. Predates yours by about 30 years (ours is about 1880), but they seem to have similar bones. At least you can see what yours might look like w/out the porch (south face, remembering that our south face is covered over w/ vinyl, so who knows what it looks like underneath). Our north face has a wide fascia board that's not really obvious on these pics. We took the vinyl off when we redid the small porch roof. On ours, the porch is probably not original adn stoop definitely isn't! I'm anxious to take off the vinyl all around to see if there might've been a porch on the south face originally. There are bones of Greek revival in both, I think. Also, we have an architectural student drawing up an addition for us and he has mentioned Federal style (but I think that's a stretch). But I think, as was mentioned early in the post, it's probably more of a working man's vernacular style (if it's not the Sears home, can't comment on that one). There's a very good book out there on American Architecture: McAlester, V. and Lee McAlester. 1984. A Field Guide to American Houses. Alfred A. Knopf, Inc. I'm sure it's on Amazon, or, if you're not really into *all* of the styles, it might be worth just a checkout from the library. Here is a link that might be useful: Druid's House

To be safe, when you are ready to drill a hole on that wall, keep your door close, That will make sure you will not damage your door if you drill too deep. After the hook is mounted, check by opening your door fully. If it does not then your hook needs to be moved more to the left. Looking at the tiles on your floor, the door seems 24 in. wide and I believe the long wall is about 36" long. I think you have the room to mount the hook.