If you use old hardware, make sure it is the type that can't come off of the track, like the one posted above. I have similar old rollers that I'm going to use. They roll on the outside of the pipe, but they still can't come off. I have childhood memories of a kid who narrowly missed disaster when he managed to knock a huge barn door off of the tracks, and it came crashing down. Most barn doors have a roller at the bottom which holds the door in line whether opened or closed. My hardware didn't come with one (or the pipe, for that matter), but it's easy enough to rig up something. My barn has modern hardware, and the bottom guide is just a plastic guide wheel. Probably not necessary indoors, unless you have pets or children that might push the door outward. I'm going to try to find a small vintage roller when I install mine. I'm also trying to figure out a clever way to latch the door, as ours will be on the powder room, and some folks like to be able to secure the door when using the 'facilities'.

I have a narrow hallway with a bathroom door that opens out. For years I have not been able to put runners/rugs in the hall because of the door. I had planned to put a pocket door in but recently was told that because of the light switch wiring it was not possible and the suggestion was made that I install a barn door which I did. I did not know that there will be a gap once the barn door was installed, the gap it’s too large to ignore. You can clearly see a person sitting on the toilet or standing at the sink, aaagh!. I tried the weatherstrip as suggested here but it did not work so then I came up with the idea of attaching “L” shaped trim. I have attached photos and it works perfectly!You have to attach the trim on both sides of the door frame and the bolts for the tracks had to be turned around so that they will not catch on the trim.

I wrote Johnson, asked a few questions, here's the reply: How much bigger of a door would be needed to cover the doorframe when closed? Your door would need to be 1 1/4" bigger than the finished opening. Can a lock be installed if desired? Yes, you would need to build out the jamb on the side that the door is closing into. Then, the door would lock into the jamb using a pocket door lock. Is there a gap between the door and the frame when closed, and if so, how much, or is there a way you would be able to conceal a gap? Approximately 1/2" or less depending on the thickness of the door. I think you are talking about the distance between the door and the wall? It is not noticeable at all, and when the door is closed (being 1 1/4" wider than the opening), you won't be able to see into the bathroom. I was thinking, if the 1/2" or less she mentions above, and that the door covers the doorway 3/4" on each side, if there is a sound issue, why couldn't one put some type of a "buffer" - I thought about something like that furry strip on a window that slides up and down??? I actually don't think I'd be losing anything along the wall this door would slide on, it's only 3' wide as it is, and the only thing on there is a towel bar and in-wall heater, which is going to be removed when we re-tile. I figured, I could just mount the towel bar on the back of the door, I wouldn't be losing anything. Maybe put a recessed storage cabinet in between a couple studs and actually gain some space. The vanity in there now is 42"wx22"d, I think going with one that's 36"wx18"d will just give me more floorspace, but I'm thinking all the time and not jumping the gun on this. I saw an interesting vanity that makes me wonder if I can possibly keep with a 42" but have it smaller in depth on the left side against the shower wall. See the link below for what I saw. It's just mind-boggling on how expensive some of this vanities are! Thanks to all - this is not going to be an easy decision on what to do, once I think I know, something I see changes my concept. I appreciate all the info and replies. Here is a link that might be useful:

I'm confused. Of the 12'7" room width, how much will be wall and how much will be opening? If it's 100% open, then barn doors don't make sense in my mind, because they don't close the whole gap and thus don't "hide the mess." Plus a 5 foot door would be huge. I suppose you could do a shoji screen type deal, with 4 3' screens that all collapsed into 3' on one end. But then again, I may be misunderstanding your layout plans here.