We also thought that sounded high, thats why we got a total of four estimates and they were all in the same ball park.We went with the one that our homeowner's insurance recommended. We have not paid them yet. Can they put a mechanics lien on our house? They also have some carpet repairs upstairs to do and they want to do it on Tuesday. I'm thinking I should probably hold off until they straighten this up, if they can. The area of texture they did looks like a horrible splotchy mess of rougher texture that looks nothing like the rest of our ceiling. Does anyone know what process needs to be done to make it look right? Does anyone know why the area of texture would look so splotchy. You can see roller brush marks. I tried another coat of paint in a small section and it did nothing. Should the whole ceiling be skimmed or can texture go over old texture and still look right? If they try to fix it and it still looks bad can we only pay for the actual drywall repair itself and find someone else to retexture and paint? Thanks Lisa

Hi,If the pieces arn't broken you can use them to patch. Buy some cheap 1x2 cut 2 pieces about 3" longer than the hole then slip the inside the hole and secure them with a couple of sheetrock screws then secure the patch to the 1x2.Get some quick drying patching compound that dries in about 10 minutes ( it is dry and mixes with water)also get some paper joint tape. Cut the tape longer than the seams of the patch then put the four cut tapes in a bucket of water to soak. Mix the mud and apply to the joint then take the wet tape and remove excess water and apply to the joint use more compound if needed. Never put on more than you want to sand off. When dry scrape off the high edges with your tapping knife. apply second and third if needed when you are happy with the joint apply the texture. If you have a knock down texture mix up some joint compund and apply it to the patch with a plastic bag you dab it on. Let it set but not harden, take you tapping knife and gently drag it across the patch. If the results are not to you liking remove the texture with a wet sponge. The firt pach should be in a place where it won't be seen so you can get it down. Good luck Woodbutcher

Easysand is one brand of setting compound. It is available in a number of set times, indicated on the bag by the umber following the name. Easysand20, Easysand45, etc. The number is the approximate setting time in minutes, but like any plaster product is is only a rough guide. GO for the largest number you can find (often 90, but longer is made). You can top with premix or more setting compound. I never use premix for anything any more. You can put another layer on the setting compound as soon as ot has hardened. It does not need to dry, just set.

Yes, the screen cloth will cut through both paint and the patch. Don't press too hard with the screen cloth and pad though. Keep the pad flat on the wall and sand the hump down a little at a time, lightening pressure as you cross from patch to drywall ... coarse screen cloth can be aggressive in what it removes and you could end up with frayed drywall paper at the edge of the patch, making the whole thing look even worse. Once you have the patch sanded, you'll probably need to paint the entire wall; otherwise the smoothly sanded patch will show up like a neon sign next to the roller-pebbled painted surface. I'd suggest using a small 3" roller and interior latex primer to seal and prep the patch for standard latex paint. Then paint the entire wall with a standard 9" roller to even out the surface texture.