Poly Whey as a coating for wood counter tops
washworker
10 years ago
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CEFreeman
10 years agowashworker
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Anyone try the Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey yet?
Comments (26)I have a rental on a low budget to turn, but I have taste. 70’s dark brown muck cabinets...budget said we had to salvage them. They had NC tags on them, thought ‘they’ll sand ‘nice’. They did but the bases were not oak and the faces are oak. I opt’d to do the vinegar and steel wool stain and go for the drift wood effect. I did a water poly test and what a nightmare! my beautiful gray weathered cabinets went right back to dark brown (on nice mission furniture nice. On these cabinets NOT) Read blogs and got to the wipe on heirloom satin coating by Vermont. SO AMAZING! So happy with the outcome! I have the driftwood look, clear I didn’t add gray stain and it brought out the different grains of the mosh of woods that ended up being these cabinets. Not the original end we envisioned, but the best because Vermont Coatings allowed an amazing finish. They look custom! I’ll post pictures when done. Anyone wanting to preserve that driftwood finish...this is it....See MoreHow difficult is it to finish a wood counter top?
Comments (21)Hi there, just wanted to share our walnut island top refinishing experience. We got our 2" thick, 72" x 36" walnut top unfinished. My finish carpenter cut the piece and routed the edges. I sanded to 320 with an orbital sander, and then finished with hand sanding. Did this outside on the covered porch because it creates such a mess (red dust everwhere). Took me a couple of hours to get it where I wanted. We then moved it into the garage (to keep smell away from kids) where I applied the waterlox finish (6 days, 6 coats). Lightly sanded b/w coats 2, 4 & 5. Directions say to get it fixed in place no later than one week after delivery to avoid warping (we did it at day 8). Make sure you do this b/c ours started to warp ever so slightly --you can only see it if you examine unerneath closely. (we live by the water and received this during a heatwave!!) I applied waterlox to all sides to further protect it from warping. After we did the underside, we flipped it and put it on boards with screws sticking out to keep it elevated while we finished the top side. It is a lot of work, but saved at least $1500 doing it myself. Here is the finished picture (we still need to do the final steel wool at the one month mark when fully cured) (excuse the mess we are getting ready for painting). we got our top at the hardwood lumber company $900 delivered. ($150 for truck delivery), but this was for 2" thick. PS I am a petite woman who is only slightly handy and I had help only to move the piece into place -- so if I can do it you can!! It was a little stressful because I was terrified I would ruin it -- but it came out fine. : ) Good luck and be patient. Here is a link that might be useful: hardwood lumber company...See MoreNeed opinions on wooden "chopping block" counter tops
Comments (7)I had butcherblock counters in my last ktichen. I cut directly on them. I oiled them with mineral oil. You can oil them with mineral or other food safe oils. Or you can finish them with something like waterlox, but then you cannot cut directly on them. I was fine with the patina from cutting and even fine with the small stain from food dye (making icing for cookies--was too deep for me to be able to sand it out). But I didn't like how they held up near the sink. Perhaps if you are more careful than I am about splashing or perhaps if you oil more frequently or if you chose to finish with something like waterlox, that would take of that issue. Butcherblock is the common term for the kind of wood counters that are like cutting boards so you might find more information by searching on that term. There have been lots of thread on the topic here in the past though I don't remember any very recently....See MoreHELP - CUSTOM WOOD COUNTER TOPS CUPPING AND SPLITTING
Comments (18)The top surface of the counter appears to be drying faster than the bottom, so it is shrinking, and that causes the warp. This suggests the wood maybe was not fully dry/stable, OR as suggested above, that layer at the bottom may have played a role. One more thing that has not been mentioned: is there a finish on the bottom to match the top? It should have been varnished to equalize the movement of moisture in and out of both sides of the wood. The crack probably happened, again, because of drying shrinkage, AND the wood was not allowed to 'move' horizontally. If it was secured fastened down across the width of the counter and didn't have any play in the fastening system, that's when it cracks. Wood has a characteristic amount of shrink/expand across the grain and along it, and it varies by species. Plywood is very stable because the grain alternates directions in each layer. Solid wood is more difficult to deal with. This kind of counter top CAN be done and often is. It may need some rethinking and redoing. I built a 36"x48" island 20 years ago with 2" thick solid black walnut and hickory, alternating, each board about 8" wide. It was air-dried lumber I harvested myself. It did cup just a tad after installation but it's been stable ever since....See Morecrl_
10 years agoCEFreeman
10 years agowashworker
10 years agoCEFreeman
10 years agoCircus Peanut
9 years agowashworker
9 years agowashworker
9 years agoCEFreeman
9 years agoCircus Peanut
9 years agowashworker
9 years agogreenhaven
9 years agoannkh_nd
9 years agowashworker
9 years agogreenhaven
9 years ago
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