Might look at the link below... if your scanner software shows it.. apply a little sharping too. Now lets compare the resolutions from the chart above to a film scan. The chart below lists the resulting output resolution of a standard 35mm slide or negative. If you compare a 2000 DPI film scan to the output resolutions of TVs and computer monitors you'll see that a 2000 DPI film scan is more than sufficient for viewing on your computer or television. Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.digitalmemoriesonline.net/scan/scan_processing/resolving_scanning_resolution.htm

Below is a link to my scanner, Canon's 9950F. I don't know about the "ice" technology, but it was highly recommended by the folks at DPReview and others. I believe you can scan slides in batches. I think I paid around $350 for it. The reason I know so little about it is that it's still in the box. I was living by myself when I ordered it, but since then my son and DIL have moved in temporarily, and I no longer have a place to set it up. That's my excuse, anyway. :-) I see that Amazon no longer has it available. By the time I get it up and running, it will probably be outdated... Susan Here is a link that might be useful: CanoScan 9950F

Hi ... using my wife's call sign. I am in the process of digitizing my slides and will eventually digitize a boat load of my father-in-law's (60+ years worth). I did some research and found that, as mentioned, scanners will do the job, but they're very slow. So, if you're digitizing a few rolls of slides, they'll work fine. But, it's probably takes too much time if we're talking about hundreds or thousands of slides. I have a DSLR, a Nikon D80, and some old slide copying equipment ... a Nikon PB-5 bellows and a Nikon PS-5 slide copier. I attached to this set up a Nikon 28-85mm zoom lens, set at 85mm. With this set up, I can take a digital image of a 35mm slide without cropping (see the picture in the link). You need to use a lens longer than 50mm to avoid the APS-C sensor cropping. My 85mm may not be ideal (a Nikon 105mm Micro/Macro is probably better), but it's what I have available. So, how's this work? Images are OK, not as sharp as the original slide but acceptable. Speed is outstanding. If you don't need to alter the exposure, it's a matter of popping in one slide, hit the trigger, pop in the next. I can digitize a 36-exposure roll in about 15 minutes. I also understand you can use a macro lens (attached directly to the camera body ... no bellows) along with a extension rings in front of the lens, attached to a slide copy holder. Here's a link: http://www.scantips.com/es-1.html Here is a link that might be useful: Digitizing 35 mm slides - Nikon D80

I use PSP7 to fix issues with photos.