The roller type has to have some rattle or there would be too much friction on the wheel (it needs clearance on one side of the wheel). Also, since the doors are only supported on one side (and are very light) that flimsy feel is going to be there, for the most part. Best advice is to make sure everything is level and plumb (including making sure the floor bracket is plumb front to back). It sometimes helps to put a pair of knobs or handles on the door instead of just the one provided. Alternatively, maybe you would prefer a pair of opposing doors, such as separating those bifolds and installing each on it's own set of hinges? It's been done before. Not too difficult if both sides are plumb. If you have drywall on the sides, then first install a jamb set on both sides and top, then install doors (Stanley had some surface mount hinges that will do the trick), then door stops around (or at least at the top), and finally ball catches at the top. No more rattle!

THank you for the responses. Very appreciated! Here's another picture of the room to get some sort of idea what our tastes are. I def don't want a cheap feeling or looking door! There is room for french doors and that's definitely a consideration. I'm a bit overwhelmed for some reason on doors! We literally have no doors in the apt! We removed them all when we started the renovations. Leaning towards single panel doors but again have not made any choices yet. A question is how tall to make the closet doors. Ceiling height i a little over 8 feet. The mirrored bi-folds that we removed were floor to ceiling. We have the same set up in the hallway closet that we redid and that also has no doors! For the hallway, I think bifolds make best sense as I don't really like sliding doors and the hallway is only 38" wide. I've attached a picture of the messy unfinished hall closet! That's about 7 feet x 28" deep. Also need a bedroom door, hall bathroom door, master bathroom door (in another thread) The apartment master bedroom closet and hallway closet seemed to have been designed for floor to ceiling bi folds..Ceiling height 98" I am wondering if it will look a little nicer to build down a few inches for these closets and am searching for ideas. Thanks again for the comments! Entry to bedroom Hall Closet Bedroom

kudzu, there are no jambs. The pivot base is screwed right into the top and bottom of the door opening on the problem door; thus into the wood under the drywall at the top, and into the wood floor at the bottom. I just went and checked it. The base is secure top and bottom. It's the metal pivot going into the door that is wobbling. The door starts tilting at the top, where it starts hitting the side of the door opening at the top. When the people installing the doors installed them, I guess they didn't know that a solid door needed more. I ordered the doors custom made so I could stain them to match my kitchen, and they did say they'd never seen anything like them. Last time he replaced them, my husband just went to Menard's and bought them, so I don't know if they were labeled for load capacity. Said if these failed, we were out of options. That's got to be it. Thank you so much for telling me about this! These are just too flimsy for the load of the solid wood oak door we bought. The door is tilting again. What kind of load capacity should I be looking for? Should I just weigh the door when we take it off? Can you get a variety of ones with different loads at a common home improvement store, or is this something I will need to order?

OK, here are some options. [Note: Door & stair opening/landing measurements were taken from your older post.] BTW...is the Living Room wall a true, completely enclosed wall or is it partially open (like a pass-through or with spindles interspersed for the entire length of the wall)? I wasn't sure b/c it was not "filled in" like the other walls. On the off chance the wall is not solid, I created solid walls in some of the layouts -- if the wall is already solid, then no need to build one out. ++++++++++ All but two layouts have the refrigerator in the same place -- the bottom right -- to accommodate a table. The only ones that have the refrigerator elsewhere have banquette seating; not my favorite for the only table seating, but it's an option. The banquette is the only way the refrigerator can realistically fit anywhere else than along the far right wall, assuming you want decent aisles, that is! Note that I mixed things up. I did this to show you what options you have. In many cases, you can "mix & match", just be sure you keep decent aisles, a fairly open space around the door, and at least two Prep Zones, preferably with water next to both of them. If you have a question as to whether some options can be mixed, just ask! I'll work it up to show you yes or no. Walls...Note that while I did not modify the 4'5" wall (bottom right), I did modify the left side a bit in most cases, some more than others. Hopefully, you can modify that wall b/c it's one of the biggest reasons you have such a traffic jam -- it forces people to go into the middle of the room to go from the exterior door on the left to the rest of the home. One last thing, the Cooking Zone (with the range) should be the most protected Zone from traffic -- so if traffic is directed away from it or it's in a "dead end" area, it will work better. ++++++++++ Layout #1: Long "L" with China "hutch" for storing your good chin as well as a buffet for staging/serving food. There are three variations; all three share the same Work Zone Map, so only Zone map is included. Layout #1a has a shallow built-in pantry with 12"D shelves floor-to-ceiling. It still has two 24" pantry cabinets. I'm actually not a fan of pantry cabinets this wide and originally put in three 18" wide pullout pantries, but they didn't quite fit b/w the wall and window (you need some filler b/w the wall and the first pantry cabinet). Two didn't provide enough "buffer" to the door. Layout #1b has a tall cabinet with a MW alcove. See a later layout with two 18" pantries & a 12" Utility pullout. What I think is best, is a reach-in pantry (Layout 1a) or shallow pantry cabinets (Layout 3). ++++++++++ Layout #2: Similar to Layout #1 except it has two sinks -- one where the current one is as a prep sink and one in the old Dining Room for Cleanup. This provides two or three very nice Prep Zones -- all with their own counterspace as well as sink access for all three. It also creates a Prep Zone separate from the Cleanup Zone, very helpful if someone is trying to load/unload the DW while someone else is preparing a meal or snack. ++++++++++ Layout #3: Short "L" + small island + Shallow Pantry cabinets and a China cabinet ++++++++++ Layout #4: It has banquette for table seating, a small island, and the refrigerator is on the top wall b/w the windows. The MW is in a tall cabinet to the right of the range. ++++++++++ Layout #5: As with Layout #4, it has banquette for table seating, a small island, and the refrigerator is on the top wall b/w the windows. In this case, there's a prep sink along the right wall creating a Prep Zone separate from the Cleanup Zone, very helpful if someone is trying to load/unload the DW while someone else is preparing a meal or snack.