Frank: I really don't have enough room. It would be more accurate if I said I move my melons around on a 3-4 yr rotation. I'll never grow them again on anything but some kind of weed barrier. Either black plastic or the permeable weed barrier, likely the later. You just can't fight the weeds when you are talking a 5-7 month crop. And not having the weeds has to increase the yield. I've got at least 20 more melons coming on this one hill, three plants. My Mom grows Sugar Baby in N IL. But it's not much of a melon, in my experience, compared to Star Brite or a seedless. By using a mini greenhouse and some frost protection you can add at least a month to your growing season. The Fruitnut

That's exactly what I have including the sown webbing and grommets except mine is 30% shade. The 30% really isn't much shade. It's hardly noticeable when underneath. I think either would work for most fruit crops. I'd definitely go 47% for berries, maybe apples but probably not pears that like more heat. Either one will exclude larger insects like stickbugs and would probably help on codling moth if well sealed. There is another very similar that has the weave heat set in place. It might do better on excluding insects especially after a few years. Mine does have some holes and areas where insects might get through after 30 years use. I don't know if the heat set polypro would be as durable but would consider it if buying more. PS: The fabric does need protection at points of unusual pressure. So like on the poles supporting my melon screen I've tied cloth around the pole top. Between poles is one wire. No wear on the wire but the pole sticking up an inch or two higher needs the edges softened. I'll post a picture of that if needed. Here is a link that might be useful: heat set polypro shade cloth This post was edited by fruitnut on Wed, May 29, 13 at 12:08

I agree with the assessment of too dry. Unfortunately, i had multiple Myers and trees that looked similar. My trees are 2-6 years old and in the ground. I have come up with a regimen that appears to have brought my trees back after drought conditions and fertilizer application (root burn). All that have been put on this regimen are responding with new leaves / growth right now. The regimen: Every week I apply a solution of 1 Tbsp. vinegar + 1 Tbsp. liquid fertilizer (I alternate Foliage Pro and Liquid Gold from Master Nursery) - per watering can [1 to 1.5 gallons). I apply 1 to 2 cans per citrus tree after i wet the ground. This regimen appears to have allowed the damaged root system to take up nutrients during the summer low-watering conditions. I use vinegar because my tap /irrigation water is 9.1 pH or higher. Here in the east bay outside San Francisco, i need to water at least every other day (lightly), and try to give them a soak once a week to 10 days. When temperatures approach 100F; I water lightly every day. [BTW: i am on fill-clay and most trees are on a 25-40 degree slope]. Allow me to explain further: due to our drought here in CA i had reduced watering and kept applying granular fertilizer (various - i cycle them). I am convinced the lack of water with fertilizer applications caused damage to the roots. The roots dry out, they burn, the tree can't absorb the nutrients from the fertilizer. I would water and the fertilizer already in the ground would damage the roots again next drying cycle. I have tried to irrigate every 3 days during the summer months, but found that for my conditions, they need water every other day. Every time i tried to pull back on the irrigation, i got damage and further evidence of nutrient deficiency / stress. I hope this helps. It is time consuming, but i have found its the only method that has worked to feed the trees during the dry summer months, and with a 9+ pH water supply.

mike_home, this weekend I will check the insulation surrounding the ductwork. I mentioned the roof exhaust fan because I thought that when working it probably lowers the attic temperature a bit and by doing that I was unsure whether it would make a difference in how well my system can move cold air. Juliek, I live in New Jersey and current temps for the last 2 days have been well into the 90's. Today my area hit 97 degrees and the house was unable to maintain a temperature below 78 degrees with the system running most of the afternoon. ionized, Would you be able to offer any more insight as to why an exhaust fan would make no difference? I dont not believe you, I am just trying to gain as much knowledge as possible. Thanks for all the help guys!