I'm sorry for the lack of responses. Some of the sub-forums here are pretty inactive. Can you elaborate on the plant's living situation a little? What kind of soil is it in? Have you changed your watering schedule, or added something to the soil? It's possible it's getting too much water. If you're not doing anything differently, then maybe your soil has compacted over time and is holding more water than it used to. (This happens with bagged potting soil.) If this type of tree normally would get full sun "in the wild", maybe the window isn't providing enough light for it, now that it's larger than it was. (You might notice this when taking photos-- without flash the indoor photos seem dark compared with outdoor ones. It seems dark to the plants inside too!) Not sure, but do the yellowing areas line up with the bottom edge of your blinds? Also, how long has the bonsai been in the same soil, and do you regularly fertilize? The soil might not have enough minerals, or an imbalance of minerals. From lurking on these forums a while, it seems like the most common problems are a waterlogged soil that never dries completely, and not enough light. Can't help you with the light situation but you might check out the Container Gardens subforum for more info on well-draining soils. Here is a link that might be useful: Container Gardening

It looks like the seedlings are badly 'etiolated' i.e. long and pale - because they didn't get enough light. What is your set up for the seedling trays? Also, why were you starting radishes indoors? (Admiittedly I don't live in zone 4), Usually since radishes are ready in around 30 days and can be planted before the frost free date their done directly outside (also I'd be concerned how the jiffy pellet starters would affect the root development (since that's the part we eat). Now people do start lettuce indoors. I don't think you can rescure those seedlings. (slightly etiolated you can usually salvage, but these are way beyond that). * The options I think you have (and I hope others respond with their ideas as well): 1) Start your radishes and lettuce outside. If you need earlier lettuce (and cost isn't an issue), buy a few 4 or 6 packs of lettuce plants from a nursery (if available). Then plant more seed for your main crop. 2) If its still too early for your zone to plant lettuce and radish outside, restart your seeds: a) on any non-moldy jiffy pots, pull the existing seedlings and replant - PROVIDE MORE LIGHT. b) (a) has some risk that a mold or other infection that started on the existing plants will affect your seeds (I generally haven't had a problem with this however), so buy new pellets and start over (and provide more light). On the light issue -- if you have a SOUTH facing window you can sometimes start seedlings in that, but otherwise you may need to provide it some sort of man-made light source (flourescents are generally considered the best 'starter' option). Sorry for the bad news and good luck! * With slightly etiolated seedlings you can pot them in then next size pots (or outside) with the stems slightly buried. It usually not deep enough to cause the roots oxygen starvation, and can help support the weak stems.

Below is link to a picture of a typical look for the ES blooms after they mature or dry out (leave them on for winter interest or cut the petiole that connects the bloom to the stem and use the bloom as mulch... if the shrub does not have any fungal diseases). Deadheading promotes new blooms in ES. Hydrangea blooms usually stay the same way they look for several weeks (maybe a month tops) before they start a color change progression that ends in browned out blooms. Each hydrangea does it like that but the colors progression varies from one variety to another say from pink to pink with some green, etc. Sometimes the shade of color changes and becomes more vibrant or darker, etc. Soil pH impact: I would expect the original bloom color that you saw when it was potted for sale (the deep purple) will change as the roots grow into the ground and adjust to the soil pH in your garden soil. By next year, the blooms could be a shade of pink, blue or maybe still purple-ish if your soil is like the one in the pot. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OQe0XzMwDrw/TllhVP2OYuI/AAAAAAAAApw/zCDgWj9q8Qo/s1600/Hydrangea+endless+summer+13AUG11.JPG Luis

I noticed today, the herd I brought back from Daytona Beach is growing wee leaves!!